New Years

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So...New Years

New Years in Japan is one of the more traditional holidays. Most people go to an elder relative's house, back to the home town, eat toshikoshi soba on the 31st, go on a early morning visit to a temple, then eat osechiryouri (new years food) for the next few days. My family did none of this.

Instead we went to a town called Shimoda on the Izu Penninsula. Large resort town and naturally, family found a large resort. I stayed in a separate hotel closer to the center of the city because as always, hotels were booked about 24 hours in advance. It actually worked out better for me that way because I got to do some exploring and schmoozing with locals.

It was fun, but I was pretty disappointed that I did not get to participate in any of the Japanese traditions for new years. Who knows when I'll be in Japan for new years again. New years eve, we got in, watched a movie, went to dinner (kaiseki again) went to a small countdown at the hotel, then went seperate ways and I checked in to my own hotel.

New Years Day had no hatsumode to a temple, no new years food. I was really looking forward to the soba because I love it so much. Not so much that it would taste any different but that it would be participating in a tradition that has been going on for hundreds of years. Instead, we hopped on a tour bus...no biggie. Shimoda is famous for being the place where Admiral Perry landed and opened up Japan in 1853. In may they have a festival, may try to get to that.

The real highlight of the trip came on the night of the 1st and morning of the 2nd. Being on my own in the center of town, I decided to do some exploring. At night I went to a local bar and just started talking to the startled Japanese old men, real local barflies. Foreigners that can sort of speak Japanese are pretty rare in Shimoda and before long I had a steady supply of beer being bought for me. Must be the gaijin charm. There was karaoke in the bar too so we all took turns singing. Free beer aside, it was a lot of fun talking to these old guys. First, the fact that I could carry on a Japanese conversation in a bar was pretty cool and second, we talked about some interesting things. Views on war, religion, America, whatnot. Got to get some very Japanese perspective on all of it.

In the morning I decided to set out myself again. Found a cafe that looked small and promising. Again, got a look of mortification by the octogenarian cafe owner until I wished her "akemashite omeditou gozaimas" or Happy New Year. Ordered some coffee...pretty tasty. Soon a few more locals came in and we watched the college marathon going on. At this point Waseda was in the lead and everyone liked having a Waseda student around. As I was talking, I finally got my osechi. A whole plate came out care of the cafe owner. I don't know whether she was just an amazing cook, doing this for 80 years, being surrounded by very interesting Japanese people, the joy I had at eating some traditional food (finally) or a combination of both, but it ranked right up there with the kaiseki I ate on the 31st in a 4 star hotel.

So I left feeling satisfied, although I dont have any pictures of the best parts since I wasn't expecting any of it. I came away from New Years feeling like I can now functionally participate in society. The most frustrating thing about being in Japan was the feeling of NOT being able to participate socially. That part is over and I have 7 months left to take in as much as I can...in Japanese. 3 months...everyone was right. I am making it a habit now to stop in the local places, bars, cafes, etc, and just talk because good things happen. I am fortunate enough to live in a neighborhood filled with these types of places and I want to cross them off my list one by one.

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Photos

Model of Perry's boat
Circling a small Japanese shinto gate. Cool image

PC310076
one stop was a love temple...saw a few of these written by American/Japanese couples

PC300058
Resort poolside

Comments

[mom]

New Years
well, congratulations!! Knew "it" would happen for you! "akemashite omeditou gozaimas" love you, mom