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Published: January 6th 2009
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Due to her success on Part One...I've decided to bring her back for the second and final installment of "Mom in Europe". My mom was like an excited little kid on this trip, it was so fun to travel with her and I'm so glad she wrote all about it.
And to start it off...walk, train, Paris, metro, bus, airplane, shuttle, Budapest!
Days 8, 9, 10:
Seeing as much of Budapest as time and Christmas holidays would allow. Spent time at the Budapest Christmas market, not nearly as large nor as commercial as Strasbourg, many more local artisans and craftsmen. Ate grilled vegetables and a turkey kabob (watch out for the squares of lard interspersed to add flavor and moisture). All the cooking is done on wood fired stoves hauled in for the market. Walked across the chain bridge (Szechenyi), the first to connect the separate cities of Buda and Pest. Found the Rudas Baths, still has the jeweled dome from the 1300’s. It was dim and murky, ladies day, we “dressed” (or not) in skimpy aprons that covered little but gave the illusion of modesty- from the front anyway! A strangely empowering day, 5 mineral baths ranging from
Chain Bridge
This is what my Mom said she saw the entire trip :) 22º to 48º plus sauna and steam room. Women just relishing themselves and their bodies, relaxing and sharing the experience- actually being able to verbally communicate was irrelevant. We hated to get dressed and leave. We crossed the Elizabet bridge. Back to the Christmas market for sausage bread and pickle.
Christmas eve day found us up early and on our way to the Food Market, located in an old train station. Reminded me of Pike Place. Everything in Budapest would be closing at noon so we had to buy food to cook and last until we left. We had planned our menu and bought chicken, lemon, garlic, bread, goat cheese, figs, muesli, cinnamon, bananas, olive oil, butter, onions, parsley, butternut squash and zucchini. And paprika for souvenirs. Stopped at a wine shop and picked the wine based on the label. I am sure the steward was appalled. Once more through the market, grabbed another sausage and headed home. Stashed the food and then went to see St Stephen’s Basilica and the Buda castle. We learned one important Hungarian word—ZARVA (closed). Christmas Eve is an intensely family evening, Baby Jesus brings a gift for the children and decorates the tree with
real candles. Santa doesn’t come until January 6. Seeing the castle was much like Budapest itself. It is still a very poor country trying to recover from eras of what they call the twin terrors: the Nazis and the Communists. There is the will to rebuild their city but funds are scarce. The views from the castle were stunning. We crossed the Margit bridge. The Danube was blue and sparkling and so was the city. The Parliament building was absolutely beautiful. So back home for our own Christmas Eve with just the two of us for family. It was strange being apart from Kellen and Steve on Christmas, especially since all our electronic gadgets failed us….no cell minutes, no battery, no connections so we couldn’t even call to wish everyone a Merry Christmas. It was fun to cook together. We had a very tasty dinner and enjoyed the experience.
On Christmas day we had tickets to see the Nutcracker at the Opera House. Stunning venue, lovely dancing and orchestra, the costumes and sets seemed pale compared to Sendak’s! Ate leftovers for lunch and then at 8 PM we had ticket for a Chamber Concert and a dinner cruise on the
Danube. The concert was awesome, intimate theater built especially for musical presentations. Kaitlin was surprised to recognize Pachelbel’s Canon and The Blue Danube Waltz. Dinner was a soggy buffet and the windows were foggy on the boat, but it was still good to have a full day planned. It would have been hard being away from home with everything Zarva here.
Day 11: Reversed our travels back to Paris, went to see Australia- in English with French subtitles. (And you ate your first kebab Mom!)
Day 12: Weather is clear, sky is blue, temperature is freezing, especially when the wind blows. We are off to Sacre Coeur and Montmartre. Beautiful church, Kaitlin says it’s her favorite. None of the original stained glass survived the war but the sun shining through created a stunning effect. Mass was being conducted but tourists were allowed to file through quietly. The nuns’ voices were so pure and clear. Wandered through Montmartre and saw the hangouts for Edith Piaf, Van Gogh, and Picasso. Went to the Dali Museum- he is so bizarre! Saw Place Pigalle and the Moulin Rouge. Kaitlin and classmates have tickets for January 8 so I am sure there will
be more to come! Went to Pere Lachaise Cemetery. Just wandered, but weird to think of all the greats buried here --Chopin, Moliere, Piaf, Wilde, Stein, Calas, Onassis, Proust and of course, Jim Morrison. Metro to the Marais area, Place des Vosges and then to Shakespeare & Co. Had a raclette dinner at a place in the Latin Quarter.
Last Day: Went to the Louvre on my own. Spent 3 hours seeing everything I could- got pretty crowded and crazy by late morning. I think I liked the sculptures more than the paintings and was intrigued by the crown jewels (Henry IV, Louis XIV and Napoleon) I am told it would take a full week to see everything in this museum. Kaitlin has a pass so can come anytime and take in bits at a time. Met Kaitlin and walked through the Tuilleries Garden, most everything closed in Paris today- combination of Sunday and Christmas week, I suppose. Had mussels and beer for lunch at a little German/Belgium café, back home to pack. Looked at all the pictures Kaitlin had taken, one last dinner of foie gras, cassoulet and lasagna with salmon.
All in all, a wonderful visit with
my lovely daughter. I cherish her and the time we spent together and she gives me hope that her generation will be more successful in bringing change to the world than mine has been.
Thank you for the guest write Mom! I love you.
It's great to hear all your comments from the blogs, it's fun to hear from everyone!
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Kaitlin Bailey
Kaitlin Bailey
Pictures
There were pictures here when I posted the blog. Maybe they will come back soon? If not, I shall re-post them! Sorry!