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Published: January 7th 2009
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Delfina delight
Commerson dolphin in full flight Hello folks
Happy New Year from Ushuaia - hope 2009 gives you peace, good health and happiness.
We survived the 16 hour bus journey from Mar Del Plata and found the hostel, our new home for 5 nights -almost a permanent location in our hectic schedule. We lost an hour in transit so settled for a New Years Eve pizza in town before falling asleep well before midnight. I think we did manage to stay awake for the New Year to arrive in the UK - about 9pm. Vaguely remember hearing some fireworks but was a bit of a blur.
New Years Day was a quiet one to get our bearings and visit the beach to get sand blasted.We also found out some info on tours in the region as this is an area rich in wildlife and the main reason for stopping here.
On Friday we joined a tour south.The first stop was Rawson where we took a boat ride out to seek out the Commerson dolphin - the world´s smallest dolphin.We were not disappointed and these playful creatures took delight in playing in the bow of the only other boat out in the region - other than
the fishing trawlers- so we had a great view, (unlike the passengers in the other boat!). Next onto Punta Tombo where we visited the 2nd largest colony of Magellanic penguins in South America.It is a great time to visit as the the chicks hatch in September time and are waddling around squawking with hunger.
On Saturday we took a public bus down to Trelew and then another onto Gaiman. Welsh settlers arrived in Chubut - the region - back in 1865. Unlike the Spaniards, they mixed well with the indigenous population and 20% of people in the area have Welsh ancestory. Gaiman is famous for its tea shops so we had to investigate !!
We were not disappointed.We had tea in one of the oldest houses in the town and for under GBP8 we had a huge pot of tea , 7 different varieties of cake ( including carrot,chocolate,lemon and Welsh ) and scones.The owners daughter has just started a Welsh degree at Lampeter Uni via the internet.They still teach the language in at least 2 schools here and it´s rather bizarre seeing the Welsh dragon dotted around the place. But there is not much else there.
On Sunday we joined a tour to Peninsula Valdes which is rich in wildlife.Unfortunately we had just missed the Southern Right whales and were too early for the Orcas, but we did see large colonies of sea lions and elephant seals as well as a few armadillos, one ´zorro´ (a fox) and guanacos - a small type of llama - as well as a small colony of Magallenic penguins.It was very hot,almost 100 degrees so nice to be near the sea. This is the place where the Orcas come onto the beach to catch seal pups, and while it would have been nice to get the full National Geographic experience, it might also have been a little upsetting.
It also turned out the the Paris - Dakar rally has been renamed the Dakar rally this year and is taking place in Argentina and Chile, because of terrorism fears. Cars, trucks, motorbikes and quadbikes all arrived in Puerto Madryn at the end of the second stage on Sunday night. Lots of people seemed have spent the day picnicing at the side of the road to welcome them, so we joined in while trying to meet up with someone Coral used
to work with.
On Monday we left Puerto Madryn for our mammoth journey down to Ushuaia. Originally we had a couple of hours connection time between buses in Rio Gallegos but our first bus was late so this was down to 13 minutes after the initial journeyof 16 hours.We then had to enter briefly into Tierra Del Fuego in Chile, including a short ferry trip across the Magellan Strait, before heading back into Argentina to change to yet another bus for the final part of the journey to Ushuaia.The sortie into Chile meant 6 more stamps in the passport and some form filling. This may happen quite a lot in the next few weeks as we criss cross the 2 borders. Bit worried about this as I rarely know what day it is and now I won´t even know which country I am in! The final hour or so of the journey was good as it involved the first proper sight of the Andes.We arrived at the bed and breakfast ready for bed as we had been travelling for over 30 hours door-to-door. The buses were actually reasonably good, and included food, wine, and films in english, or with
english subtitles to keep us amused.
Accomodation
Puerto Madryn - Hipatagonia
Great location again only one block from the sea and 5 minutes from the centre of town.The hostel has 3 beach huts which residents can use and throws parties at any given opportunity.Rolls and crackers with jam plus tea and coffee for breakfast.Ensuite bathroom again and tv plus WIFI.
Ushuaia - Galeazzi B&B
Up the hill overlooking the town.Small room but warm comfortable beds and bathroom next door.Nice proprietor called Alejandro.Great tea !!
We will board the first of our boats later today and then onto the yurts in Torres Del Paine so not sure when we will next get internet access.
Until then, take care and keep in touch
Love Coral and Steph x
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Kate
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Can I come too??
Hey you guys seem to be having a fantastic time. I want to come and join you....!!! Keep having fantastic experiences and glad to see you're still drinking tea and eating cakes Coral! xx