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Published: December 22nd 2008
On December 6th we just happened to be walking back from supper, when we heard music coming from the "little market". It was the arrival of St. Nicolaus. Tonite is the night that he will slip a present under the pillows of the children.
The square was jammed packed with families waiting the arrival of the saintly bishop. A popular childrens show was performing from one of the balconies overlooking the street. And when his carraige was spotted, I was caught up in the crush of people to be closer to him. The Christmas Angel led him through the crowd, he actually had a guard entourage with him. Although their uniforms looked more like costumes than military.
Such excitement!
After making his way to his seat and engaging in small talk with the performers, he began giving out chocolates and small packages. Each child was helped up to the platform and he was so gentle as he reached out for them and greeted them. It seemed as if he asked them a question, and they responded with a nod. He looked very pope-like, with his bishop's hat and regal costume.
From where I was perched on top of a planter,
I could just make out the kids expressions. They were in awe of him, mesmerized and very polite.
On the other hand there were these stilt walking angels, that were sort of odd, but people wanted their photos too.
The Christmas Angel plays a big role in tradition. Angels are the representation of the Christ child. (I think that is the legend) And they will bring presents on Christmas Eve. My understanding is that centuries ago Martin Luther wanted to divert peoples attention from Santa Claus back to the Christ child, and so got the angel involved to help baby Jesus give gifts to his children. At any rate the children in Krakow receive gifts twice at during the Christmas season.
In Poland you also have two occasions to celebrate your birthday. One is the day of your birth, and the other is your name day. They know how to celebrate!
One of our favorite European customs is the outdoor Christmas markets. Rynek Glowny, Krakow's main market square has a Christmas Market for the entire month of December, just like we experienced in Germany. Ornaments, candies, baskets, jewelry, woolen products from the Tatra mountains, and Frank Sinatra Christmas
music CD'S! The sausage grillers are selling plates of boiled potatoes and vegetables as fast as they can dish it out. And the pungent smell of grilled sheep's cheese Oscypek, and mulled wine (grzaniec) catches our attention. When Keith took a swig of the hot wine from is mug, he made such a face that the ladies near us giggled!
A stage resembling a barn or stable, is the center of attention. I have a snippet of video of the performances of a Russian dance troupe and a class of high schoolers singing "What Child is This". In English. We are used to hearing Polish carols sung by the various groups, so hearing a familiar carol in a language we understood, took us by surprise. They sang it beautifully. For more images of Krakow go to our other blog
The Serendipitous Travelers A week later we happened to be out and at the spot where a ceremony was to be held for the anniversary of the beginning of martial law in Poland. I think many of us forget that between December 1981 and July 1983, this country was cut off from the rest of the world. With our groceries
cloth hall or Sukiennice
Sukiennice, 15th century, Krakow's first shopping centerin hand were walking and behind us was coming a demonstration with a police escort. They were carrying a huge banner that stretched across the width of the street and many were holding torch lights. At first Keith's inclination was to walk faster. As we have seen many demonstrators in the past that come to the square to publicize their cause, and some times they are quite radical, skin-head types. But tonite they were looking more ordinary. A more mature looking crowd, everyday people.
They were marching in remembrance of a day that they had lived through. Christmas of 1981 must have been a very sad Christmas for the Polish people. On 13 December of that year the General Wojciech Jaruzelski came on television and declared military rule, thus began a 19 month lock down. This was intended to squash the democratic opposition from gaining power. It is dfficult to imagine living in a country that is literally "closed". Curfew every night, your "documents" such as your passport held at a government office, nothing imported into the country, basic supplies unavailable, lines for bread, ect.
The banner that the people carried this night read "peace, justice"
Until 1989
Christmas Angel
she leads St. Nick into the square Poland survived under communisim, and now is thriving. It has been a wonderful place to live and experience freedom.
Wesolych Swiat i Szczesliwego Nowego Roku
(I hope that means Happy Christmas and New Year!)
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Qian
non-member comment
What a beautiful place to be during Xmas. And what a pleasant surprise to see the Pope distribute presents. You snapped some cool pictures. I heard about these outdoor Xmas market. Your photos and journal gave me some flavors of what that is like. Enjoyed it!