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Published: January 15th 2009
in the Warsaw Rising Museum
the symbol for the Polish underground movement is at the left ( sort of a "P" with a "W" ) The eagle on the red and white flag is the symbol of Poland. This past weekend, we took the train up to Warsaw. We feel obliged to make a visit, being that we are temporary Polish. And this is Poland's capital for the past 400 years. It was first in Krakow.
At the top of this entry is a photo of the Jewish Cemetery, it was the only deserted place we were in during the time in Warsaw. This is a very alive, busy city. We were impressed by the size of this cemetery, with the snow highlighting the tops of the grave stones, it seemed to go on indefinately into the woods.
If you are considering touring Europe, don't be put off from traveling in the winter. Even though it may be cold, there are fewer tourists.
Had there not been snow to cover the graves and walkways, this cemetery may have been bleak and depressing. But with the snow it was a picturesque landscape. We did wonder why there weren't any little rocks and pebbles placed on top of the head stones. At the cemetery in the Krakow district of Kazimierz, we were told that pebbles are a tradition to show that you remember the deceased. Maybe we didn't see the
our "Guide"
as she reflects on the compositions of Chopin! more visited areas. It was getting late, and we had a train to catch, so we didn't venture in too far.
During the summer, in Gliwice, we met a wonderful young woman, Asia, who invited us to Warsaw and offered to show us around. The link to that blog entry
So we contacted her, and were treated to her personal tour! Instead of being a gray communist city, we found it to be very modern and a bit reminiscent of Paris' wide boulevards. It is still Christmas time here so the trees lining the streets are twinkling. And the streets themselves, are criss-crossed with lights. Decorations will be removed on or about the 2 of February, Candlemas Day. There are many traditions that are upheld here! So, now when I leave my Christmas decorations up til February, I can say that I am observing old Eastern European traditions!
We saw first hand one old rural custom, or actualy a re-invented custom of carolling. Across the street, from where we were having a most wonderful meal in a upscale little restaurant, we saw three grown men in costume. One was dressed like a king with a crown carrying a nativity scene, complete with stable and animals. The second man was the donkey, as he held a pole with a donkey head whose mouth opened and clapped shut as he kept time for the carols singing. The third in the trio was the holy angel. But at his age and with his lack of teeth, he was not the most attractive angel we have seen this season! I was ready to offer them a zloty since they were "collecting" but our hostess said the money might not go to charity, but rather to the trio's drinking fund! In fact they did enter the restaurant, but were asked to leave by the handsome bar-keep. And did, but not before they paraded through the tables, singing off key. No pictures here, since I didn't want to contribute to their night-time activity!
The first night we found Elvis at the Hard Rock Cafe! Not just the memorabilia, but yes, there was a band playing his tunes. They had everyone dancing, except for Keith, not enough beer in Poland to get him up on the dance floor! I think I heard him say "Dziekuje, dziekuje bardzo" (Thank you, Thank you very much!)
Palace of Culture and Science
built in 1955, a gift from Stalin, this is the tallest building in Poland. Makes for a great landmark. He would be the first king we encountered during the weekend!
Polish painters at the National Museum were worth our first stop. I guess we are beginning to really appreciate our temporary home, because these paintings were exceptional. We have learned just enough about the country and it's history, that we recognized events and the artists that painted them. The Polish artists from the period known as Mloda Polska, are much loved, and we have learned so much about their lives. That pride has infected us, too!
Then there was the rest of the day spent at the Warsaw Rising Museum.
(remember to click the appropriate flag for your language) You may know of the Warsaw Uprising. Same thing, although it is referred to as the Rising, at this state of the art museum. It portrays the 63 days of the Polish underground's Home Army, valiant attempt to hold off the Nazis. From August to September 1944 the Polish insurgents, did all they could while waiting for the Soviets to cross the Vistula River and come to their aid. The Soviets watched and waited. Eventually 200,000 Poles were killed. At the end of WWII, Soviets began 45 years of suppression. I can't say enough positive things about this interactive museum. Even it's little cafe where we took a break, and the reconstructed sewer were well done.
Fryderyck Chopin is Poland's most beloved son. The museum dedicated to him is closed until 2010, so a walk in the park to see the monument to him will have to do. And a huge monument it is! Asia tells us how much she enjoys sitting under the trees listening to the live concerts that are held here during the summer. We also searched out the church of the Holy Cross to see where his heart is enshrined. Mass was about to begin so my photo was taken in a hurry, not so good. The interior of the church was beautiful, of course. Again the structure was destroyed in the war, and rebuilt afterwards. (Chopin's heart was removed for safe keeping.) The Polish government has decided not to allow DNA testing on it, to determine if he in fact died of cystic fibrosis as is widely thought.
We stayed at a very friendly bed and breakfast, near the National Museum. They provide a breakfast with locally produced breads, juices
Palm tree in de Gaulle roundabout
modern art unveiled in De 2002, Varsovians decided to keep it! and jams. A family atmosphere as we ate around the big dining table, and were joined by other guests and the charming owner.
Poland has a long history of being invaded and occupied. Constantly this weekend we had to remind ourselves that in 1945, this was an 80%!d(MISSING)estroyed city. Immediately after WWII, reconstruction began and was for the most part done by the mid 1960's. We could sense the independant promise of the future, that all Poles must feel. Krakow has a quaint atmosphere, compared to the big city that is Warsaw. I feel sure that Keith and Kate would agree with me, the national pride of the Polish people is contagious.
There are a few photos of Krakow, at the end of this entry. If you would like to see more of what we see on a daily basis, go to
Thank you Asia for a great week end! Dziekuje bardzo!!
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