El Tigre

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Today we visited Rathambore National Park. This was the park that President Clinton visited on his trip to India, and it is one of the parks where you are most likely to see a tiger. It is no guarantee however, as of the many acres of parkland set aside, visitors can only see a small part and there are only a few dozen tigers left. Sadly, poachers have been killing these gorgeous creatures for Chinese medicine and their skins. Knowing this, we did not fully expect to see a tiger at all. Some people stay for weeks and never do.

We arrived in the afternoon and were disappointed to find that Hotel Tiger Safari Resort was a concrete block hotel, and our room was dank, dim, and windowless. One saving grace was that it has afternoon hot water, and we were finally able to take a hot shower. The weather here has been quite chill, record-breaking cold at night with frost in Delhi. Rathambore itself has always been known as a cold place at night, especially in the mountains. Most of our hotels have had no heat. This hotel fortunately provided additional blankets and a topsheet, however. And we didn't even have to ask for towels or toilet paper - whereas at some of the places we've stayed at, you only find out when it's too late.

We arrived in time for the afternoon safari to our surprise. We were planning on seeing Rathambore Fort the first day and having two safaris the next day. Our driver encouraged us to take this afternoon safari in a canter, and so we did. A canter is a huge open-air vehicle that carries 20 people, 4 abreast. Jeeps are better, but are costing much more. We grabbed a seat in the back of the canter, and we were off - the vehicle blowing up dust in the road and into our eyes, our hair whipping in the wind. Very soon, we put on our warm hats and mittens. Entering the park, we did not have high hopes. The people in front of us had not seen a tiger on their previous safari and we had met people at lunch that were also going home disappointed. The canter was going through the park at a fast clip, bumping over the road and slamming us up and down like a roller coaster. I saw flashes of moving animals on the sides, but we didn't stop.

At last, the canter slowed for a few minutes to look at some deer. Even this was exciting, live wild animals - graceful bucks with elongated horns, small spotted deercalves, monkeys, and a few birds.

Note, the park had a big sign in the beginning that advised people not to smoke in the park, not to feed the animals, and not to get out of the canter.

At one point, we did see some yellow and black birds and our so-called wilderness guide asked us if we had a biscuit to feed the bird. He was showing us how to feed the birds. Soon thereafter, while we were occupied, he got out of the canter for a bathroom break, a smoke, and to drink. As it turned out, our wilderness guide was a drunk - that's why we couldn't understand a thing he said. The driver of our canter heard from another driver that a tiger had been seen up ahead and scurried to get everyone back in the truck, but the guide didn't seem to take him very seriously and slowly ambled back to the truck after finishing his ciggie.

"Great", I thought, "We have no hopes of seeing a tiger now."

Later on, we saw many more deer and there was one point when we thought we might see a tiger. The monkeys started to run and then the deer. We backed up the canter, hoping that a tiger would be coming along soon. However, it was just the loud noise of our vehicle that had spooked the animals.

Every time I saw someone in a jeep, I hated them for that. We had wanted a jeep, but our travel agent told us he couldn't reserve them, and by the time we found out that they could be reserved, they had all been taken. The jeep people get to go all over the park and take precedence over us lowly canter people.

Just as we were watching some beautiful large deer-like creatures graze in a wetland, some jeeps came along and pushed us out of the way. We actually backed up into a tree to let them go by. At that moment, the animals began to run. With our cameras, everyone stood up and started taking pictures...surely a tiger must be there. But we couldn't get closer, as more jeeps and canters were turning around to get past us. Finally we could go. Again, hopes dashed - we must have missed the tiger.

Then, in the grass, a tiger stalked forward...and settled down behind a bush. We took pictures madly, through the tall golden grass and green underbrush....this small glimpse was to be our chance. The elation was huge.

And then, another smaller tiger came from the side and joined the first tiger. Amazing.

The guide asked if we'd had enough and we eventually agreed that although it could never be enough, we should move on sometime. The three jeeps in front of us (much closer to the tigers) stayed and we continued on, allowing another canter of people to take our place.

We rounded the bend and there he was, a magnificent tiger with deep orange and black markings. He was sitting in the clear, by the lakeside, and didn't seem to mind at all that we were there.

Perhaps he was thinking :

Wow, they've brought me so much food in those big metal containers...how can I possibly eat it all?

After some time and much snapping of pictures and exchanging of binoculars, our canter turned back. It didn't matter what we saw now, we had seen 3 tigers. We were full of jubilation and must have scared off the other animals with our laughter and giddiness.

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Photos

Glorious Tiger
A gorgeous orange male

Deer
A beautiful species of spotted deer

Comments

[Aadil Desai]

Tigers!!!
Hi there, Great to hear about your experience and I wish you could have taken the jeep in the park. But the only good thing about the Canter is the height advantage it has over the lowly jeeps!!! You sure must have got a great picture from the top of the Canter. Hope to see them someday soon. Thanks for sharing your interesting story!!! Cheers, Aadil (From Indiamike.com)