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Published: November 16th 2008
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Ruta Rio Bec:
For our ten-year anniversary Chuck and I went to Mexico. We wanted to be off the beaten path and on the road less travelled, again and even more so. We decided to drive south along the Riviera Maya, make our way through the Ruta Rio Bec, and then head into Chiapas.
Riviera Maya and Chiapas will be covered in separate entries.
Ruta Rio Bec is a stretch of highway north of the Mexican and Guatemala border between Chetumal in Quintana Roo and Escarcega in Campeche. The drive can be done in a day, but it is better to take your time enjoying Mexican and Mayan culture and history.
Ruta Rio Bec is home to the Mayan archaeological zones of Kohunlich, Kinichna, Dzibanche, Xpujil, Becan, Chicanna, Balamku and Calakmul. The sites in this area are considered to part of the Rio Bec architectural style, however elements of the Peten and Chenes styles are also notable. Elongated buildings with high towers are common throughout the area, as well as representations of the Earth God, Itzamna.
Kohunlich is the ruin site closest to Chetumal. The name Kohunlich means the ridge of the
kohun palm and the site is surrounded by these massive trees. Kohunlich is certainly less frequented that Mayan archaeological zones farther north so the wildlife is abundant here and as you walk through the site it seems as though you are alone in a place lost to the jungle and time.
Kinichna and Dzibanche are very close to each other and so can be seen together.
Kinichna means house of the sun.
The structures here were built between 200 and 600 CE.
Dzibanche means writing on wood and the site received its name because of carved wooden lintels found in one of the structures here. Dzibanche is considered to have been a major site during the Classis Period, 300 to 900 CE.
Chicanna was built between 600 and 800 CE. The name Chicanna means house of the serpent mouth in the Mayan language. This site was inhabited by the Mayans as early as circa 300 to 100 BCE. Scholars believe that when Chicanna was inhabited it was used as a residential area by elites. The site received the name Chicanna because of a doorway here that was constructed to look like a
large mouth.
Becan was a fortified city surrounded by a moat and built between 600 and 800 CE. The name Becan is said to mean trench, ravine, or ditch of water. On the other hand, some deduce that Becan translates from the Mayan language to mean path of the serpent (be = road, can = serpent). Becan was first inhabited circa 550 BCE. Items from Teotihuacan in central Mexico have been found here providing evidence that the site was used as a commercial center while it was inhabited by the Maya.
Xpujil prospered between 400 BCE and 1100 CE. The name Xpujil means place of the cattails. Inside of the main structure at Xpujil is a stairway leading to the top of one of the towers. Although this is a small site, it is certainly worth the visit.
Calakmul is one of the largest of the sites from the Pre-Classic to Classic time periods. Calakmul is recognized as a Unesco World Heritage Site. This is another expansive and impressive site with many structures and plazas to explore. The site is situated within the Calakmul Biosphere and so is home to considerable wildlife. During the
time that Calakmul was inhabited by the Maya, this site was considered a rival to Tikal in modern-day Guatemala. Calakmul allied itself with the Mayan cities of Yaxchilan, Naranjo and Caracol. Over 100 stelae have been found at Calakmul helping scholars to interpret the history of the site.
While we were walking through Calakmul we noticed a door open on the stairway of the main structure. Chuck and I went in the open door where we found a reporter, a couple of officials, and a massive and elaborate mask carved into the side of the structure. The mask was probably 10 feet tall and 20 feet wide. The original paint was still visible and in amazing condition. After a couple of minutes one of the officials noticed we had entered and asked who we were and how we got into the room. Chuck and Leila, we answered, and we came in through the door. Apparently the room was not open to the public, was accessible to only a select few individuals (reporters, officials, archaeologists) for only a few minutes at a time, and Chuck and Leila were not on the list of people allowed to enter, but since
we were there we may as well take a good luck because this room likely would not be open for public viewing for another 50 years. The gods were on our side for sure that day!
Balamku is across the highway from Calakmul. The name Calakmul means temple of the jaguar (balam = jaguar, ku = temple). This site includes very impressive carved reliefs which symbolic of the Underworld, the world of the Gods and the Earth. Carvings include portrayals of masks, jaguars, amphibians, and kings. Balamku was inhabited between 300 BCE and 1000 CE.
There is lodging available in the village of Xpujil as well as nearby at Rio Bec Dreams Hotel or Debliz Hotel Xpujil.
We stayed at Rio Bec Dreams which offers cabanas with private bathrooms, a bar, and a restaurant with a limited menu. Debliz Hotel Xpujil is a newly constructed resort type of hotel with bar and restaurant. We ate at Debliz Hotel Xpujil because Rio Bec Dreams Hotel only served food during certain blocks of time.
The Ruta Rio Bec is a must visit area of Mexico and Mesoamerica.
This
entire stretch of MX Hwy 186 is full of nature, history, and culture. The area is not overrun by tourists even though it is very easy to find and get to from major cities of the Yucatan peninsula. The setting is natural and beautiful. Staying in the Rio Bec area requires visitors to rough-it a bit, but doing so is rewarded by a unique experience not to be found in many other places so easily accessible.
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ISCHEL
non-member comment
Great shots and impressive comments. Thanks for sharing