Welcome to The Jungle

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The train up to Chiang Mai was okay. The bed was about 4 inches shorter than me and it was ridiculously hot in there after the sun came up in the morning. But any sleeper train is better than any overnight bus, so I won't complain.

I met a Dutch couple at the train station and split a tuk-tuk with them to the city center. A tuk-tuk is a three-wheeled open air taxi, somewhat resembling a golf cart, and they're completely ubiquitous in Thailand. They have a bit of a shady reputation due to the drivers always making "stops" along the way at their relatives' shops or ping-pong shows (use your imagination) or something like that. They're also associated with always having language barrier issues right when it's time to pay. So this was my first tuk-tuk ride and I was a little concerned, but we were very specific that we didn't want to make any stops and we wrote the price down. The driver said that only tuk-tuk drivers in Bangkok were a problem and we didn't have to worry in Chiang Mai. I wasn't fully convinced but we arrived where we wanted with no problems.

I booked myself into a large room with a queen sized bed an an in suite bathroom for $4. Later that night I hit up the bars and ran into a couple English girls I met in Bangkok. Simon -- also English -- was also in the group. We ended up at some Rasta bar until whenever it closed.

The next day I signed up for a two day jungle trek including visits to a couple hilltribe villages. I opted not to do the elephant riding because I hate riding animals and I've heard they don't treat the elephants well at all, and also opted not to do the rafting because I wanted to save the cash and I knew it wouldn't be as good as the rafting in Zimbabwe.

My group for the trek included an English girl, a Dutch guy, a Brazilian girl, and a Portuguese dude/Thai girl couple. The latter isn't what you think; they live and work together in Dubai. The first day we walked about 4 hours and visited two villages, the second of which we spent the night. The women there had the neckstretch things. The food was mediocre by Thai standards. We built a bonfire and had a good night drinking and chatting. The next morning, while eating breakfast, chickens kept flying up and stealing food off the table.

The second day involved more walking and, while the rest of the group went off for the elephant rides and rafting, I joined up with two English girls and we went to a waterfall with natural rock slides. All in all, despite it being blazing hot and humid, the trek was great.

Back in Chiang Mai, I went to a Muay Thai fight with the Dutch couple I shared the tuk-tuk with. There were eight fights and three knockouts. At least 90% of the crowd were tourists but it was still awesome. I ended up running into Simon at the fight and we bar hopped after in ended.

The next day, I rented a motorbike to go up to Pai. I never rode a motorbike of any kind before and the guy who dropped it off taught me with very minimal English. He also never asked to see a drivers license, let alone a motorcycle license. Then again, there are 14 year olds driving motorbikes all over the place.

The drive was great. It was about 150 km, first on the super highway, then on a really windy, hilly road through the jungle. Some really good scenery and, for the first time in a while, fresh air. I liked the motorbike so much I think I might look into getting one when I get home.

I got into Pai and it was a lot bigger than I expected. It was also undoubtedly part of the tourist trail, something I wasn't expecting at all. I checked into a guesthouse and ran into Simon yet again. He met Sara, another English girl, and so the three of us bar hopped around.

It didn't take me long to realize that Pai is great. It has a kind of artsy scene so there is live music all over the place. And not crap, bubble gum cover band live music like at home. Lots of jazzy, bluesy, and reggae jam bands and open mic places too. And every place has like a hundred motorbikes parked out front. It kept reminding me of the biker bar scene in Pee Wee's Big Adventure, except it was a bunch of Thai hippies and European tourists, rather than Harley Davidson biker gang people. It was a really friendly atmosphere too. Free shots are liberally given out and you can't go more than a few minutes without talking to somebody new.

I had such a great time I considered staying another night or two, but I want to make it down to Vang Vieng in Laos in time for my birthday. So I booked a two day slow boat down the Mekong River starting tomorrow. Thailand has been terrific but I must leave temporarily. I'll be back in a few weeks and, for right now, I'm really excited for Laos. I'm planning to meet back up with Simon and Sara, the English girl from my jungle trek.

By the way, my opinion on Chiang Mai is that it's overrated. It's okay and definitely worth spending a few nights here, but people rant and rave about it like it's the best place on earth. I don't get it. Pai is infinitely better in my opinion.

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Comments

[Pauleen]

Birthday Boy
Justin, All of us from G section want to wish you a very Happy Birthday!!! We didn't forget about you! When you get back, we will be sure to celebrate as you know we don't like to miss a birthday luncheon! Take care and be careful.