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Published: October 17th 2008
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How ya goin'
Lee and I just dropped off the "Eagle," our trusted home and mode of transportation for the last three weeks. It was an emotional farewell, as we had grown quite attached, and hope she soars over river and mount as faithfully for others as she did for us, as long as her little wheels may carry her. To those lucky enough to have her, give her a can of oil for us, let her engine purr, and tell her every time I bang my head in the night, eat beans for dinner or find myself washing dishes in a bucket more frequently than washing myself, I'll think of her and smile (Lee won't remember the beans for dinner as fondly, she'll reminisce about the lack of windows in this situation).
Yeah, spending a year on the road together, with the stresses of navigating the globe with a backpack and guidebook was sure to have it's moments. Things so far, however, have been exceedingly smooth (for me anyways, poor Lee has to put up with Mr. Grumpy every now and then), we decided it would be appropriate to take it a step further and spend our time
Auckland
Auckland was the first of the BIG cities we got to. Really cool vibe, and very clean in the downtown area where we stayed in New Zealand living in a van, as close as two people could possibly be without being conjoined, and even then I think you could give anyone joined below the hips a run for their money. For Lee, the van would be a liberating way to see the country at our leisure and according to our own schedule, a way to strengthen our relationship and the ultimate litmus test. For myself, it was a golden opportunity to be homeless, unemployed and living out of a van, days away from the nearest shower, the true vagabond I've always aspired to be, anchored only by the the mood of the day and the miles left in the tank.
Now that's it's over I think we can happily report that we're still happily engaged and I'm lucky to have found surely one of the most patient, laid back and easy going ladies around. I mean, I couldn't live in a van with myself for three weeks
but somehow she managed (thanks babe, you're the best!).
So what can you write about New Zealand, I'm afraid to even try as I'm sure I won't do it justice, and that would be unjust.
Auckland
More of Auckland with the Needle in the background What a
remarkable place. An ancient landmass covered with some of the oldest flora in the world, lots of it only found here and much predating the dino's. Forests of ferns, pink and purple trees, grey rivers, volcanoes, random geothermal activity, and weather and scenery that change by the minute and the mile. It looks as if it were partly inspired Dr Suess, or maybe the good doctor found inspiration down here. I for one would not have been the least surprised if a Lorax ran across the road in front of us; stuff far more strange sure did.
The whole country has about 4 million people (and God knows how many sheep--they are EVERYWHERE) and a healthy chunk of those live in Auckland and Wellington, leaving the rest of it pretty much empty. Kiwi's, as I guess would any group of people who live on a geographically stunning, mostly empty landmass, have embraced the outdoors as a whole and exploring their mountains and rivers and forests seems as much a part of the national physche as spending time in a skimpy bathing suit on a beach has for your average Brazilian. This all makes it very easy to
Auckland
more random city shots travel around in a van. "Free camping" is common, accepted and often encouraged. It basically means, if you like it here, and it doesn't say not too...pull over and stay the night. If that's not your thing, the national parks, which seem to make up half the country, all have sites where you can park the van and you'll find a clean toilet, a spot to make a fire, all kinds of walks and more often than not, at least a cold shower and a stunning view...all you have to do is put your 7 bucks in the "honor box" on the way out. Yes, our honor is still in tact!
We basically started in Auckland, headed down to the south island, where we spent two weeks bouncing around the wine lands, rugged coastline and southern alps. The scenery was quite spectacular to say the least, it almost looked animated. New Zealand exists because two tectonics plates are, and have been, pushing up against each other for millenia, turning sea bottom into landmass over millions of years, and has resulted in some of the most dramatic and unique scenery in the world. We would literally just drive around thoroughly
entertained by what we were driving through.
After the South Island we hopped on the Inter Island Ferry and spent another ten days exploring the North Island, where we found a little more warmth, awesome beaches and more of the same friendly banter and hospitality...oh, and the beer is delicious here! Speights and Steinlager fight it out for best sellers but little gems like Tui and Export Gold along with a host of micro type brew more than hold their own.
Hopefully the pictures will give you a sense of the place, to get a real feel of New Zealand you'd have to come here yourself, or find a
much better writer to describe it. One thing we really enjoyed here was the talk radio, which we got a fair dose of for three weeks. Down here it is still very much a format where the nation expresses itself, and listening to call-ins was a fascinating insight into New Zealand life. I guess listening to what others complain about tells you a lot about how thay have it.
The day after we arrived a man was killed in Auckland in a tragic stabbing as he attempted to
intervene in a mugging. Three weeks later people were still calling in about it, concerned because it was the 3rd murder there this year, and second stabbing of the month. "It's disgraceful", one caller said, "how can we live in a country that had 45 murders last year?" I think in most places in the world, if one murder held people's attention for three weeks, and 45 murders in a year was a lot, the people would be out dancing in the streets.
We also happened to be listening along as it was announced that the government would be giving every college student a weekly allowance of 150 bucks to help with the skyrocketing cost of education ($5000 for a degree...PLUS BOOKS). Another, "Sure I have free health care, but I don't like my doctor!" I just hope they look around every now and then and realize just how good they all have it. New Zealand is used to being voted the country with the best quality of life on the planet so I guess they have pretty high standards, and good for them.
The cities are awesome. Auckland, "the dangerous city" as people told us was our
Auckland
a better a shot of the needle first stop. I think it's probably one of the safest places
I've ever been. It's kind of weird, as if they feel obliged to have a dangerous city. Admittedly, we didn't cover every inch of it, but we did cover a fair amount and it all looked groovy to us. I guess it's telling just how jaded and accepting we've become, although I should add that I've never felt unsafe in NYC and I've stomped around a fair amount at 4 in the morning, so maybe I'm just a moron. Auckland is surrounded by water and is basically a harbour city. It's home to more sailboats than I've ever seen collectively, a great skyline, and a very cosmopolitan population. Christchurch, is small as cities go, very pretty and quaint and looks very victorian. It lacks the big skyscrapers we associate with cities but definitely has a feel all of it's own. I imagine life there is good and commuting is done by foot. The last of the big cities we saw was Wellington, as Dunedin was a wee bit too far south. Talk about an awesome place. Nestled between the mountains behind it and the bay in front of it,
Auckland
Big tree in one of the parks. like everything else in New Zealand, Auckland is very "green" friendly it's visually striking, has a fantastic pulse, great little neighborhoods full of people from all over. If you told me I had to go live there I would do so smiling, and it must surely rank top five in the great cities of the world to call home.
All in all....wonderful country, wonderful people...Thank you New Zealand...and of course, soar on you eagle! Sweet As!!
See ya layda
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Jojo
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Andrew!!!!!!!!!
Andrew what have you done to your hair? Did u have lice? love your aunt!