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Published: September 16th 2008
Parting isn't meant to be easy. It's hard to say why I came to Japan in the first place.
I knew that I would struggle with cultural differences, language barriers, parting with old friends, and most obviously loneliness.
When I decided that I wanted to move away from my cozy life, great job, fantastic friends and girlfriend at the time, you could say that I was leaving it all behind. In fact in the 2 years that have past since I said goodbye to the familiar shores of Blighty, I have been asked numerous times why I came to Japan, and the truth of the matter is I am still not sure and can never give a satisfying answer to anyone including myself. Even more so, for all the times that I sat alone in that house, turned up to work again for a another day, struggled to make myself understood and became infuriated at not being able to cope in this culture and society so fundamentally different from my own, there were even more times I sat back and listened, took the time to stop and think, followed a road that was new to me and travelled further then I
had ever done in all my 25 years of life. Japan opened my eyes. Not because Japan is so incredibly beautiful or exotic or different, that I just had my way of thinking pulled out, washed and returned new and ready to go, but instead because I made that first, symbolic step out the front door and out of my comfort zone.
And as I stepped onto the Beetle boat, Fukuoka, South Japan, and crossed the boundary from my home for 2 years, I suddenly felt strangely warm in side. I was parting from good friend and caretaker, and I was looking forward to the next time I could come back and repay the favor.
As my brother Tom and I sped away, I suddenly wanted to be alone, and could quite believe what was happening. I starred out the window as island after island disappeared onto the horizon, and I strained to see the last faint image in the distance. Was I even seeing anything anymore? I couldn’t tell if it was just a blur or the landmass that was Japan. I just wanted to keep looking at it a few moments longer. Did I do it right? Did
I say goodbye properly? What would I be remembered for? What would I remember? Good bye Japan.
This journey would mark the first step on the climax of my 2 year adventure in Japan, and would soon turn out to be an adventure in itself and a fitting end to the tour. The high speed boat humming across the Sea of Japan was going to Busan, Korea, and would be the first step on my journey back to London. A to B, the long way. The aim being to try and not take any aero planes and get back to London in one piece before Christmas for a reunion with old friends and family.
The boat arrived in Busan under 3 hours later (Hakata Beetle co - economy about 13000yen; 65pounds) and stepping onto new territory hailed my first step on foreign soil and the beginning of my parting with Japan.
Busan Busan, it turned out, is S.Koreas 2nd city, a fact I instantly noticed on my arrival from mini 1million Fukuoka to this 3.5 million port town.
At first it had a lot of the hall marks of Japan. Lack of ATMs, large scale corporate advertising, smell of
US MPs
Saturday night in Seoul, downtown.fish, but soon I could see I was miles from the land I had called home. Gone were the teems of died blonde hairdos and uber trendy outfits, to be replaced by black hair and an almost uniform 70s haircut that made everyone look like Bruce lee in aviators and the women all like 70s through backs. I liked it. Also the super cleanliness was gone and was replaced by a more realistically achievable level of dirt that made me feel more like I was home.
Tom and I rode the easy metro and settled in a hostel (blue backpackers -10poundish a night if I remember correctly, good condition -there are only about 2 in the whole city!!!) which was actually more of an apartment, set in blocks numbered on each side in giant Korean Hangeul and looking as though they came out of a factory. The apartment was actually great, and the homely feeling of being in an actual apartment among other Koreans living their daily life was great. And the view from my 20th floor window whilst sleeping was great too.
We luckily, and with great thanks to him met a Korean American English teacher named Justine,
a cool character from the West Coast, that night who taught all the intricacies of Korean culture, and lots of drinking games. This eased us into the ritual of Korean life, which seemed to revolve around drinking a lot and eating amazing, spicy food. For all you food lovers out there, who haven’t considered Korea as a holiday option, get out there. Its cheap and English friendly(ish) and the food is possibly now my favorite food in the world. In fact, food and drink would feature prominently in the next 5 or so days in our, oh so too short time in Korea.
As someone once said to me, Korea is a lot like Belgium. There is not that much there and often people would pass it by, but it is just nice. The people are nice, the food is great, there are beautiful ancient temples to see, mountains to hike, sprawling cities to explore and a general friendly and goodhearted nature about the people. I loved Korea.
And in a way it was a breath of fresh air after Japan, and a chance to kick back, eat great food (I’ll stop mentioning the food soon, promise) and just
find out about what make this ancient country tick.
Busan itself was a nice enough city to stick around for a couple of days, and we spent the time hitting the beach, marveling at the phenomenon of outfit co-ordinated couples (and families), eating live octopus, drinking some sort of milky alcohol, and generally relaxing.
After hooking up with a Japanese Korean guy who wanted to travel north too, the 4 of us set our sights for the island of Ulleong-do. This island was off the east coast of the peninsula, but being quite far out, the weather didn’t permit us to make it there, and we decieded to head to the ancient capital of Gyeon-ju instead.
Gyeon-ju The weather was not on our side again, but we managed to drags ourselves out of bed and make it to S.Koreas most famous temple Bulgukska and wander around for a while before bumping into 2 young Korean guy who regailed us with Radiohead hits at the bus station in the rain. I like Korean people.
The area itself is massive, and littered with ancient temples and tombs, like giant grassy humps, the Korean equivalent of the great pyramids,
but much more accessible (in fact in the local park), and would take a long time to explore, but sadly I had a boat to catchfrom near Seoul. I forget the name of the place in Gyeong-ju we stayed at but there are lots near the bus station, and they all offer beds for about 15000 (I think, can't remember the conversions but it was cheap and easy to find.)
Seoul The next day we just about managed to score a ticket to Seoul on an express bus. Korea is a relatively small country, and you can span it from north to south in about 5 hours for less than 50 pound (a lot under, can’t remember how much) and buses depart all the time.
We arrived in Seoul the same day and parted with our Japanese companion to find a place to stay, opting for a Motel, an accommodation that used to be a kind of Love Hotel, but has since evolved away from the Japanese stereotype into a kind of cheap business hotel, but that feature some rather old pornographic images in the hallway. If you are travelling in Korea, however, they offer the cheapest and most
convenient accommodation, and are all over the country.
Having checked, in and made it in time for Saturday night, we set off for the cliché destination of Intaewon, and hangout for expats and the US military, to catch the Arsenal match at Tom’s request.
Cliché or not, it was an experience in itself, and as my brother commented in the first bar we went into, he had never been in a place where he was the smallest guy in there! Well not including me that is, but these guys were big, and drunk and sporting cowboy hats, red faces, and a look that say “I’ve been stationed here for 3 god dam years, and I’ll never see any action so I'm gonna' kick the crap out of someone tonight!!”.
You can sympathise with them possibly. Not liked by the locals and allowed to be unleashed on one of the largest metropolitan cities in the world, full of Irish bars and other dunk marines, it is just inevitable that you’re going to get a bad name for yourself.
In fact it felt slightly like you were walking around, Saigon in the war, with MP military police standing outside bars and looking
large and menacing, whilst they questioned guys with bloody, beaten up faces, that they are going to have to haul back to the base on the world most heavily fortified border.
I forget most of the night but we saw the football, and someone won, and we drank a lot of beer, and found out that there are no tourists in Seoul. Only English teachers and troops. Both battled hardened and slightly weary.
The following days followed a similar routine, of waking up late, slightly hung-over, managing to fit in one sight or two, and ending up eating yet another awesome barbeque dinner. It was great, really great to spend time with my brother, as much as we would eat other up and moaned at each other. Good on yak Tom.
In fact he managed to score himself a US army initiated tour to the DMZ just outside the city, but as I had to catch my boat to Qingdao, China on the 26th I would have to wait to feel the grip of the Kim Jun Ills favorite view, but I had a feeling that I would.
In ending - Korea, sandwiched between 2 giants, size wise and
economically wise in the form of China and Japan, is oft overlooked, and sadly, if perhaps, happily remains almost tourist free in comparison to other countries. Heed my words. Don’t overlook this little gem. Go. Eat the barbeque. Try the Live squid. Drink with Koreans. Drink Souju. Drink more Souju. Don’t overlook one of the 8 great civilizations of the world, and for gods sake check out the hairdos! It’s like being in the 70s!!!
My Seoulsearching done, it was time for part 2 of my adventure, China.
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non-member comment
Certainly good for my soul-can't believe I didn't comment first time round. The writing (and searching) just gets better and better!