2 weeks off

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It's been 2 weeks since the last entry so i've got quite alot to catch up on. I'm actually in Malawi now, arrived today, but more of that later.
Following the sports day i splashed out on a night of luxury at a chalet not far from lidwala. Had been feeling rough and wanted the luxury of a bath. The place was gorgeous, a 2 bedroom wood cabin with kitchen, living room and bathroom set amongst woods and horse paddocks. I cooked my dinner over a braai and it turned out much better than my usual efforts at bbqs back home. Only cost 500E (35 pounds) a night. On the downside, i had to go to the local clinic the next day - nothing too serious - so had another night of not doing much back at Lidwala lodge. The dr was from ethiopia and i was charged about 20 pounds for the consultation plus drugs. Made a 2nd trip to Mbabane to look around, but there's not much to see if you're not interested in the shopping malls. Not sure if i've mentioned, but the premiereship is huge here so you see lots of liverpool, manutd and chelsea shirts. I think stephen gerrard is of more interest to many people here than robert mugabe.
Feeling much better for a few antibiotics, i went to Mlilwane game reserve to stay at sondzela backpackers lodge. Took the bus along the Malkerns road and walked for about 30mins across the fields of sugar cane and pineapple to reach the lodge. The place is in a great location, within the park and just a 20min walk from reception. While being shown round we came upon an ostrich out the back, and in the evening there were warthogs snuffling and snorting in the undergrowth. Not the friendliest place to stay as far as the staff go, although i've been told by others that they're normally really good, and very helpful with booking activities. Didn't feel the guests were very open and welcoming either, but that could be due to language barriers and me being used to the close-knit community at Lidwala. The most amusing moment of the evening was watching a very stoned spanish couple trying to break open macadamias. The dorm was one long room with lots of single beds, so it felt like a hospital ward or a childrens' home. There are no big cats at Mlilwane, so you can walk or, as i did, bike round the park. On my first afternoon i went out for an hour with a guide, but that was fairly pointless as we biked along the same route we'd covered a few weeks previously on foot. The following day I did a 2 hour ride and got a bit lost (surprised?). It was still fun and they weren't at all bothered that i took longer than my allotted 2 hours to return. It was a little expensive - 90E per hour. Saw lots of warthog, antelope, some zebra and one huge lizard. Think i saw as much wildlife on the walk between sondzela and reception as out biking. Stopped to look at a croc on an island on the hippo lake, walked out towards the edge of the water to get a better view, then had to quickly retreat as i realised there was a 2nd croc on the bank below, within striking distance. The views out over the lake with the mountains in the background were stunning, like pictures i've seen of Switzerland or Yosemite Park. The hippo feeding at the restaurant brings mixed feelings - good to see the animals close-up, but a bit zoo-like. Amusing to see warthogs and monkeys trying to muscle in on the action. Lots of herons and ibis around the pond, too.
A new zealander arrived on the day i was leaving and had a similar experience of sondzela to me, so i recommended she try Lidwala instead. We got the Kombi back and she was able to sit down with Rach, the lodge manger, and arrange some excursions for her short stay. I left for the camp at the Shewula community nature reserve the next day, taking 3 buses over 5 hours to travel up into the far NE of swaziland. I'd been assured when i booked that i didn't need to take any food, which turned out not to be the case, but luckily an english tour party arrived just after me and took me under their wing, feeding me, beating me at cards and providing transport back out of the mountains. The view from the camp was the most incredible i've seen so far - the lobomba mountains stretch left and right, while ahead stretches the lowveldt with it's bright green sugar cane plantations, and beyond the mountains that mark the start of the middle veldt. The reserve is part of a series of adjoining reserves, some private, some govt owned, including Hlane, the only place in swaziland where you can see lions. I'd intended to go camping, but the same guy who'd assured me about the availability food went off to vote in the morning and didn't come back till the next day. So i went to visit a local homestead with the tour party instead. The next day, on our way out of the shewula area, we stopped at the house of a sangoma, a traditional healer, and he told us about his work, his training (possessed by the spirit of his predecessors), his methods of diagnosis (throwing bones) and treatments. From Hlane, on a horribly hot day, i got a bus back to Manzini and then, feeling increasingly sick, back to Lidwala.
Having spent the night making regular trips to the toilet i took a day out to relax and Lidwala again. I was very glad to have got back there instead of stopping in Manzini, as i'd been considering. It was like a home for the time i was in swaziland. Thanks to all the staff and friends that made it such a good place to be. So i had to delay going to Ngwempisi gorge again, but got there (kind of) eventually. Due to the difficulty of getting to the community-run lodges by bus, i booked into the Horseshoe lodge - self-catering chalets that, although nice, were in need of a bit of attention. Got to hike down into the gorge but it was 100deg at the bottom, and i didn't take enough water, so had to head back up earlier than intended. Think i'd had enough of travelling on my own by then, too. Was befriended by a cat. I'd recommend the place for anyone with their own car, but go to the proper accommodation (one place is actually carved out of the rock) and get the guided hike from lodge to lodge.
Returned to Lidwala once again for a few quiet days. Went to see the beginning of the reed dance yesterday, the laying of reeds. The weather turned weird the day before, with high winds and high temperatures. The sky turned dark with what we thought was dust, but must also have been smoke from all the fires, judging by the miles of blackened scrub i passed on the way to the airport. The sun was an eerie red colour through the smog. The ceremony at the royal palace felt completely disordered but then quickly came together and soon massed ranks of women were forming up into battalions and marching towards the royal kraal. There was a point when we realised we had gone from being spectators to being the ones being watched as all the women wanted pictures taken, drinks, food, and in some cases marriage and a new life in england. Sadly, we had to leave before the actual laying of reeds, due to the dust and lack of available food.
Up early today for the flight to Malawi via Joburg. The plane was late arriving at Manzini so i had to rush to get the connection, not wanting a repeat of the outward journey. Felt very sad to be leaving swaziland. Reached Lilongwe without event but was met by a young south african who looked like he was about to collapse and turned out to be suffering from malaria. Due to his illness, and one of the volunteers not arriving, we're at a backpackers place in lilongwe tonight. There were 4 other volunteers on the same flight and apparently many more arrived over the weekend. It's a 3 1/2 hr drive to cape maclear tomorrow.

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Comments

[Big Sis]

How's Malawi?
It was great to speak to you when Mum and I came over to see Em for the weekend and apologies for not sending you any messages recently. I hope that all is going well in Malawi and that you will still be able to communicate via the blog as it's keeping me entertained and making me plan my own career diversion! Look after yourself and hope to speak to you soon. x