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Ezulwini Valley Travel Blogs

Background: Autonomy for the Swazis of southern Africa was guaranteed by the British in the late 19th century; independence was granted in 1968. Student and labor unrest during the 1990s pressured the monarchy (one of the oldest on the continent) to grudgingly allow political reform and greater democracy. Swaziland recently surpassed Botswana as the country with the world's highest known rates of HIV/AIDS infection



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It's been 2 weeks since the last entry so i've got quite alot to catch up on. I'm actually in Malawi now, arrived today, but more of that later. Following the sports day i splashed out on a night of luxury at a chalet not far from lidwala. Had been feeling rough and wanted the luxury of a bath. The place was gorgeous, a 2 bedroom wood cabin with kitchen, living room and bathroom set amongst woods and horse paddocks. I cooked my dinner over a braai and it turned out much better than my usual efforts at bbqs back home. [View Full Entry]

wheresmykipper - Martin Thomas | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1419 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: September 1st 2008 | 52 Views | [diary=318651]


Leaving Lidwala lodge for a few days. I’m at the end of my pre-booked time here, but I am likely to be back on weekends. Was going to head for Ngwempisi gorge to do some hiking but had to delay as I’m feeling rotten - upset stomach troubles. Thought I’d be ok so went to the inter-ncp sports day organised by john, the sports centre volunteer, to chop veg for the kids’ lunch. Left early to get to Mbabane to extend my visa but felt rotten by the time I got to the lodge so decided to delay everything. Can go [View Full Entry]

wheresmykipper - Martin Thomas | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
641 Words | 4 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: August 19th 2008 | 49 Views | [diary=313892]


I have a little time to write about Sunday’s quad-biking as we had to come back from the project early today. We were picked-up at 8 by a guy called Richard, an outspoken English expat who runs tours by car, bike and hike into the swazi countryside so that visitors can experience the ‘real’ Swaziland. We drove for about 45mins over to the other side of the Ezulwini valley to the mountain range where members of the swazi royal family are buried, also the site of a famous swazi military victory over the rampaging Zulus in the 19th century. That was [View Full Entry]

wheresmykipper - Martin Thomas | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
775 Words | 4 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: August 13th 2008 | 46 Views | [diary=311751]


Awake early, I decided to get up to watch the sunrise over the mountains opposite. I settled myself on one of the huge boulders that lay strewn around the garden. The shadow on the slopes behind descends quickly. You feel a cold breeze on your back and warm air on your front as the yellow light in the sky intensifies over the peak. I watched a bird of prey soaring over the valley and storcks land in a nearby tree. The sun broke over the peak, the trees and plants in the garden below me were thrown into shadow and light, [View Full Entry]

wheresmykipper - Martin Thomas | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
437 Words | 5 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 31st 2008 | 69 Views | [diary=306754]


So, maybe a little more detail about the project I’m working on. We’re in a village called Mlandazwe which takes about 30 mins to get to on a good day, hours on a bad one; it all depends on the khombis, the private minibuses all the locals use. The last couple of days, there have been very few khombis so its taken hours. We’re making bricks by pressing earth in a contraption consisting of a steel box with a lid and a lever attached. We have to dig the earth out, make it the right consistency, load it into the press, [View Full Entry]

wheresmykipper - Martin Thomas | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
890 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 31st 2008 | 51 Views | [diary=306750]


Sorry about brief entries, been a bit of trouble with the internet connection, plus there are about 20 other people using the lodge's laptop. I went to the nearby (25min walk) shopping centre, the gables, to use the internet cafe this afternoon but the connection was worse there than here at lidwala. The gables has a couple of upmarket clothes shops, cafes, restaurants, a supermarket, banks. It's where all the whites and middle class black swazis go in their air-conditioned 4x4s and mercs,to get away from their gated communities. You see v few whites anywhere else. My daily routine is settli [View Full Entry]

wheresmykipper - Martin Thomas | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
722 Words | 4 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 27th 2008 | 55 Views | [diary=305129]


Things have improved a bit since last entry! Settled in ok, been working on site. It's about a 30min drive over the other side of the valley from the lodge i'm staying in with beautiful views of the mountains. The clouds roll in between 2 peeks above us. But the poverty is striking, particularly set against the obvious money that is here. Coping with the all-girl volunteer group is the biggest challenge. Makes me feel a bit old! Lack of privacy is a challenge too. Haven't been able to get this old laptop to recognise the camera so no pics for [View Full Entry]

wheresmykipper - Martin Thomas | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
282 Words | 5 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 24th 2008 | 56 Views | [diary=304097]


Over 24 hours travelling so i'm a bit knackered. It shouldn't have taken that long, but i missed the connecting flight at Joburg so had to sit around in the airport for 6 hrs. I made the fatal mistake of going to the loo when i got off the plane, and then the woman at the SAA transfers desk said she wasn't going to 'go the extra mile' to get me on my connecting flight. And my luggage is missing, but apparently that's par for the course, nothing to worry about. I'll be a bit smelly tomorrow though. The lodge is [View Full Entry]

wheresmykipper - Martin Thomas | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
113 Words | 2 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 21st 2008 | 56 Views | [diary=302826]


SWAZI ZEBRA
SWAZI ZEBRA
Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary
THE KINGDOM OF SWAZILAND: HIPPOS COME TO DINNER, WARTHOGS AT THE CAMPFIRE “When King Sobhuza II died at age 83, he left about 120 wives, with unofficial estimates putting the number of wives and mistresses at more than double this number. The current King Mswati III has 13 wives. The King was the center of controversy in 2001 when he married a 17 year old, two months after imposing a five year sex ban on the Kingdom’s teenage females. The “forced” chastity was imposed to fight the spread of HIV/AIDS. He ended the ban a [View Full Entry]

cunningdennis - Dennis Cunningham | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
2039 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 9 Photo(s) | 5 Video(s)
Published: June 16th 2008 | 119 Views | [diary=287940]

SWAMI KRISTENANDA
HIPPOS ON THE BEACH
YOU SCRATCH MY BACK...

EN FRANCAIS PLUS BAS MORE PHOTOS HERE Thorn-bush Wacking in Swaziland, YEBO! On Wednesday 11, even though it's not raining, I get on the bus yet again to cross the border to Swaziland, a process which is unexpectedly hassle-free. The clear weather allows us to witness a most beautiful and long-lasting sunset, setting the sky on fire behind the mountains circling the country. Thursday morning, after applying for my Mozambique visa, I join an Irish fellow lodge guest to hike up [View Full Entry]

DELFIN - DELFIN | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1975 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 4 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: June 27th 2008 | 92 Views | [diary=291907]

At the bus central station, a sign sticks out and makes me wonder...
Backing up in the shade, getting out of their way...
... and waiting for the bus...


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