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Published: August 24th 2008
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Chandigarh is a shining example of what India will become in the future as it becomes more and more developed. It is the capital city of the Punjab province; however, its size does not reflect it. Only home to aproximately 1 million citizens it seems to me that its in contrast to other major Indian centers on a lot of different levels. Its clean, wide, perfectly paved and paralell streets resemble a North American city far more than an Indian one. Orderly traffic flows here make crossing streets easy. And the streets here are nothing like the rest of the India I have seen so far. Glass windowed, air conditioned grocery markets, and clothing stores along with any other kind of business you can imagine makes me question whether I havent crossed into a completely different country. Even the bus terminal where I arrived is perfectly clean, with an orderly and straightforward layout. Its..... extremely different to what I have seen so far.
I woke up this morning and decided I wanted to see the Secretariat Complex here in Chandigarh. I asked the receptionist at the hotel how far away it was, and how much I should pay a rickshaw
driver to take me there. He explained roughly where it was, and told me a fair price to pay. After a hard bargaining session with the nearest driver, I was off on my way to the complex and looking forward to seeing a shining example of Le Corbusier's architecture. He was the architect that laid out Chandigarh and planned the new capital city after India gained independance from the British.
Arriving just outside the complex I submitted myself to the guards at the checkpoint for a search, however I was informed by the two soldiers that today was a holiday and the complex would not open again until tomorrow. I had forgotten that today is Sunday. Not at all surprised that the rickshaw driver didn't point this out, I was in truth not surprised that the hotel manager did not point this out either. This seems to be the way information passes to me in India when I ask questions. I get extremely direct answers, and although they are usually always correct, they usually arent what I had asked or intended to ask. For example, when I got on the bus yesterday to travel here from Rishikesh I asked
how long the ride was with the direct question "How many hours to Chandigarh?" followed by a vigorous tapping of my watch. The answer I recieved was word for word "two and thirty". Great, an hour and a half, no big deal. I was concerned by the length of the trip because I dont fit in Indian state transport buses, and neither does my backpack. I cannot fit my legs into the seat, and to do so I have to lift my feet off the floor and bring my knees way up into the steel back of the seat ahead of me. At the start of the journey this wasnt a problem, I could sit sideways and put my bag in the seat beside me. Three hours in, when we were already supposed to have arrived it was a problem though. The bus was full to capacity, people were standing in every available spot, and I had my knees jammed up as described with my 35 lb bag on my lap. It turns out that after leaving at 5:30 in the morning from Rishikesh I actually arrived in Chandigarh very near to 2:30 in the afternoon. So my initial question
beginning this whole digression was answered more or less correctly, just as a bent reflection of the question I initially asked. Everything here is like this. Everything.
So anyways, since the Secretariat buildings were closed I decided to go to the Nek Chand fantasy rock garden which is supposed to me a sight not missed while here. I was not dissapointed. Admission was 10 rupees, or approximately 25 cents. It was one of the most fantastic things I have ever seen. Made out of recycled and organic materials the garden was started years and years ago by Nek Chand. A man living in the area which is now a 10 hectare park. He carted rocks, light fixtures, old pieces of china, a lot of rocks, and anything else he could get his hands on and created this fantastic place. It was truly spectacular and I am extremely glad that I decided to take it in.
After the rock garden I decided to take another walk further down the road to the artificial lake Le Corbusier designed into his plan for the city. Another feat of civil engineering, the lake is fantastic. If no one told you it was
artificial you would never know. Its huge size, and peacefull setting go hand in hand with the rest of Chandigarh's layout.
On my walk from the lake back to the hotel a man driving a nice new Hyundai stopped beside me and asked me to get in the car. Politely declining (which I am getting really good at) I said no thank you and kept walking. The man was quite insistent though and drove about a hundred meters ahead of me before pulling over, getting out of the car, and approaching me. What am I in for now I though to myself, but after introducing himself he turned out to be another exceptinally nice young man. He was taking a weekend holiday from Delhi where he lives, and was bored of spending time alone. He asked me if I would like to go and have some tea with him by the lake. I agreed, got into his car, my never take rides with complete strangers while in India alarms silently screaming to me the whole time. We did arrive back at the lake though, and he did proceed to buy me tea. We had a good conversation and found
out that we have a great deal in common. He is a civil engineer working for a French consulting group in Delhi. We decided to get lunch together, and he explained that he wanted to go check out another government park about 45 minutes out of town. He didnt want to go by himself though, so I agreed. Once I am done typing this up we are off to go check it out.
The pictures I took of the rock garden could never do it justice, but I hope you guys get a sense of what Nek Chand was able to accomplish with his eccentric dream made reality. Have a look at the size of the artificial lake as well!
I have to say that the two things I have the toughest time getting used to in India is number one, the litter. As a Canadian, its almost impossible for me to throw something on the ground. Everywhere else I have been in India there isnt a lot of other choice. There are no garbage cans anywhere to be found and as a result I just cart all my trash around all day back to my guest house,
where I pile it neatly in a corner of the room. Chandigarh has the occasional trash can here or there, and there is little to no litter in the streets! The second problem I have, is relying on the kindness of other people, and accepting help from others. I know that sounds bad. I really should have more faith in my fellow man. Back at home, I usually try and do absolutely everything myself, because I am the only one I trust to do it. Maybe thats a control issue, or maybe I have just been burned too many times by other people, I dont know. People are genuinely kind over here though, and although a lot of them are out for my money, a lot of them are not. Its going to be a long road to opening myself up to the kind of trust other people I have met traveling have, but I am working on it. I am already better than I was when I arrived.
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David Orme
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Waterfalls
Those waterfalls look amazing! Such a scenic place.