Lady boys?

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We arrived in Bangkok's newly opened Suvarnabhumi airport on saturday morning, ignored the many touts telling us the expressway was not yet open and we would need to take an exorbitantly priced limo and proceeded to get the bus costing less than £1.50. We checked in to our guest house in Banglamphu, aka backpackers mecca. At first we felt slightly dirty joining all these other foreigners and outnumbering the Thais something rotten, but over the past few days we have grown to appreciate the friendly atmosphere and endless markets selling everything from Louis Vuitton hats to fruit smoothies and muesli with yoghurt.

On our first day we sauntered through the Grand Palace and gazed in wonderment at the excessive opulence and grandeur of the place. Unlike the forbidden city in Beijing, the palace was immaculate and very well maintained, adding to its impressiveness. The 40cm high emerald Buddha is housed at the palace in a particularly ostentatious shrine. The tiny Buddha sits atop a 9m high shrine surrounded by intricate golden decorations. We had to remove our shoes before entering the building and then avoid pointing our feet at the Buddha. Many of the Thai pilgrims prayed and bowed down, which seemed quite bizarre given that the recipient of their affections was effectively a small green rock. Each to their own.

Next stop on the whistle stop tour of Bangkok was Wat Pho where the reclining Buddha is housed. This enormous relaxing Buddha is housed in an almost comically small temple, meaning that you only ever get a close up view of his feet or his grinning smile. His feet are particularly interesting with intricate mother of pearl inlays. Wat Pho is famous around Thailand for having the best massage school in the country. Therefore it would have been rude not to pop in for a quick a massage. Half an hour later and almost £2 lighter we emerged feeling relaxed after our occasionally brutal massage.

Later on we visited Radjamnoen boxing stadium to take in some Muay Thai, Thailand's national sport. The betting was frenetic and the bouts were artistically violent and ritualistic. It was comparatively expensive compared to other entertainment to be found in Bangkok but still well worth the money and highly recommended.

So far the food in Thailand has been excellent. It is ludicrously cheap and jam packed full of wonderful flavours. There are many delicious treats to be found in the night markets for a few Baht. The markets are an assault on the senses. Your nostrils are filled with the aroma of incense, flame-grilled meat and cheap perfume. The stalls are covered in brightly covered knock off t-shirts, hats and jewellery and neon streets light up the streets from above. In amongst the bustle of the stalls there are street bars and cafes selling the most famous of all Thai beers, San Miguel. At every corner you can have have a suit tailor made, your hair braided or your skin tattooed.

The following day we organised ourselves a longtail boat tour of Thonburi, the old capital of Thailand to the West of Chao Phraya the river that meanders through Bangkok. We saw old ramshackle houses on the verge of falling into the murky river, some buildings had clearly already met this fate. We saw some very large lizards slithering through the water in search of the equally large fish that could be seen splashing around. At night we took in the Suan Lum night Bazaar, another night market even greater in size than anything we saw in China and elsewhere in Bangkok. This market differs somewhat from the others in that it is possible to buy some interesting local handicrafts from clothes and furniture to paintings and carvings. From the night bazaar we wandered over to the infamous Patong district where fake rolexes and handbags can be had for much cheapness amidst the constant badgering from touts asking if you want to see a ping pong show (take from that what you will).

Later this evening we depart for Chaweng beach on Koh Samui in the gulf of Thailand. Until next time, take it easy.

Al.

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Photos

Thai Boxing
He's clearly not Thai. I want my money back

Koh San Road
Backpackers mecca.

Thonburi
Down by the river.

Comments

[Linda Lowseck]

Awaiting an update, please! 3 July.