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Kalalau Valley is God's country & Kalalau Beach is the most isolated piece of the Kauai north coast and possibly the most stunning piece of nature we've ever had the privilege of experiencing. After landing in Honolulu we jumped straight on a flight to the island of Kauai, battled jetlag, local buses with luggage limits far below the size of our packs, almost missed closing time at the camping hire place holding our 'house' for the night & then hitchhiked 8 miles (successfully, mind you ... first thumb = first ride), before camping illegally over a horny-toad infested swamp.
4:16am the local rooster population awoke, signifying the beginning of a 22 mile (36km) 2 day hike along the Kalalau Trail that nearly killed us. Far beyond the leptospiridium-infected streams & killer mud, ragged trail parts dropping near-vertically into the most ferociously wild waves below, & dirty mountain goats causing mini avalanches above, the distance wore layers off the soles of our feet. Arriving at Kalalau, however, almost justified all the pain. As cliched as it sounds, words literally cannot describe the spectacular scenery we witnessed on our adventure. A cross between Machu Picchu's mist-shrouded triangular peaks & the wide blue
horizons & crashing ocean waves of Wilson's Prom with a red-earth moonscape to transcend to the white sandy stretch of beach below. Unbelievable! Nuff said.
The surf was utterly insane. After we arrived, Daredevil Dave decided to take to the ocean for a little swim. Ignoring the countless signs along the way shouting "Strong Currents" and "This many tourists have died swimming here (insert massive list of names)", ran straight into the sea to be carried halfway down the beach, belted by waves three times the size of anything in Oz.
We met some fantastic personalities along the trail, and were flabbergasted by the sheer cheek of a hippie colony living in this sacred land. With food scarce but The Green Stuff light to carry and obviously present in one gigantic stash, the hippies had concocted a scheme to entice potheads to exchange their food supplies for a bit of 'chill'. Ingredients = one baggie bursting with marijuana, one fishing line attached to said baggie and covered with leaves, one tent of distraceted hippies about 25 metres back and across from the pot site. Unsuspecting victim cruises by, a slight tug on the fishing line has the baggie
move enough to attract attention, pothead thinks all his Christmases have come at once. As he bends down to nab his stash, he's literally reeled in for the big food exchange. Unfortunately for the hippies this time, they were up against 2 of the straightest hikers in the world. Besides, there was no WAY a block of Hershey's dark chocolate with cranberries, blueberries and almonds could compete with a bit of weed!
On the third night of our hike, we stayed quite close to the trailhead so we could get up early, hike for about an hour and catch another lift back into the town to drop off our hired stuff. The ol' thumb wasn't really working that morning as we walked around 2 and a half miles (4km or so) before we caught a lift with some hillbilles who smelt suspiciously like Otto's jacket.
Caught the bus again around to Kapa'a on the East side of the island and checked ourselves into our 'cheap' hotel (we spent $4 more than the local youth hostel rumoured to be crawling with bedbugs) which turned out to be a 5 star resort! Complete with triple-king-sized bed, ocean-view sunset pools and
jacuzzi, we were stoked. Just the ticket for two absolutely buggered hikers.
We love Hawaii with it's perfect weather & beach culture, and we love Hawaiian people. Everyone is so friendly & helpful. Penny has a dream to live on the island for 6 months and learn to surf. Dave is happy to be surrounded by 52 different fast-food outlets with a cable TV remote in his hand.
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Rosanne Lawton-Kirby
non-member comment
Travelling Success...
Penny and Dave, I can't believe you are both in Hawaii. I've always wanted to go. Aaron has been there. He did the big moloki outrigging race over there. Yes I know! Long way. He wants to go back and do it again however, Zane and I will be travelling with him next tiime. Make sure when your over there, have a blast. He loved it. The Hawaians have a really unique culture, Gosh listen to me...he has a tattoo of their symbol on his back along with the rest of his other tats. Glad to hear you are both enjoying everything... I have done the whole backpacking thing through Indonesia...before all the trouble over there now...when I was 19. It is funny to see the way other cultures work...especially when you come accross people with pot and god knows what else. I will give you a heads up...I walked into a restraunt in the back streets of Bali "totally unaware" of what I had ordered until the waiter came out and said "our magic mushrooms" in food are best, Aussie Girls like you love them. I took one look at my food...did not touch it paid fo it and left. Yes I know I was a young and niave, blonde idiot! They nicknamed me on the trip Barbie Girl...And at the time that stupid song was out "Barbie Girl"... In my defence I started to learn some of their language. It wasn't that hard. So my backpacking days with firends now seem funny....I could tell you some stories or two..believe me. Take Care...Look After yourselves! And have a Blast! Regards.....with travelling "Piggy" in toe.. Rosanne P.S Name suggestion for pig, Babe, Wilbur?