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The gang of insane nutters!
A photo of us all before it got really really scaryBack in December I was sent a link from a work colleague (thanks Dan) regarding the most dangerous tourist route in the world. As soon as I seen the photos and read about the insanity of the trek, I knew it had to be done. Based on our record of disasters since leaving the UK, we did reconsider the situation but decided "What must happen will Happen" (Gino, India 2008).
The evening before the trek we met two other travelers that were drawn to our idea of making it out to this remote location and travel the most dangerous tourist route in the world. We Google photos and worked out how to get to Hua Shan from Xian by public transport. That night we had a few beers and hyped up the insanity of the adventure we were about to undertake. Little did we realize that it was going to be more insane than we ever imagined!
We caught the local bus from the train station which took us directly to Mt. Huashan. Glyn and Floz decided to hike it to the top of the mountain while Dave and I (the smarter ones) decided to take the easy route
The old plank road
Can you see the fear in Glyns face! to the top of the touristy Northern Peak by cable car. We were happy that we did because we didn't realize there was another 17km walk along the top of the mountain ranges away from the tourist areas to get were we needed to be. Glyn and Floz looked exhausted when they reached the top and shocked that there was so much further to climb (ha ha!).
We hiked high up on to Mt. Huashan and along some of the most spectacular mountain ranges I have ever seen. We walked on what felt like a million steps carved into the mountain and climbed vertically using small foot holes and chains (without harnesses) on some of the more simpler parts of the trek. I can't describe how exhausting it is climbing uphill for 17km. Lucky the beautiful landscapes and mountains took my attention away from the pain I was feeling in my arms and legs!
Eventually we found our way to East Peak using a Chinese map, which was the first objective of this exhausting independent hike. Not many people make it this far into the trek and very few attempt the climb. We hired some dodgy looking frayed
Lets see how safe it really is?
It wobbles and creeks as you go! - "Made in China" harnesses for 30 Yuan and clipped ourselves to the most unsafe safety cables you can imagine. There was no way I was going to let myself fall, the harnesses and safety cables didn't look very strong!
Floz descended first followed by myself, Dave and then Glyn. When my turn came, I clipped on my harness and began the descent down a sheer cliff face. I have never been so scared in my life. My arms and legs would not stop shaking. It looked like a million vertical miles to the bottom of the valley.
The climb was extremely difficult and insane, all you had to hold on to was pieces of chain and small foot holes carved into the face of the mountain. The adrenaline rush is indescribable. The only words that came out of my mouth were "S*it where's my F*cking foot hold", "Its too bloody slippery", "F*ck, Sh*t, B*llocks". "This is F*cking insane". Only in China would something as insane as this climb exist! Apparently quite a few people die attempting the climbs around Mt. Huashan.
Unfortunately all our ranting and swearing put Glyn off climbing the East peak. I don't blame him really, if
What an un-nerving view
Floz balancing on a pole 3000m up on a cliff face Dave wasn't descending rapidly from above, I would have bottled it too. Words can't describe how mentally insane the climb was. You can't just parasale down the cliff face, you have to climb it! I have never been so scared in my life!
Once we descended East Peak, we walked along narrow peaks with shear drops either side (without harnesses) until we managed to get to a small temple. From there both Floz and I clipped our harnesses to some chains and hung over sheer drops for the most mental photos we have ever taken. The adrenaline rush was surreal. I think we had become mentally unstable by this point!
The climb back up to East Peak was just as insane, although it was slightly easier because you could see the foot holes. At one point I remember my foot slipping and feeling my heart go, it was such a long way down. I can't believe we did that climb just holding onto chains while using small foot holes in the mountains cliff face. It was pure madness!
Once we had recuperated, we then hiked for another hour along beautiful mountain ranges until we finally reached Changkong
Complete insanity - one slip and its all over!
Yes that is all you have to hold on to while looking 3000m down a cliff face! Plank Road (our second objective) where we set sight on the most mentally insane climb you could ever imagine. We were faced with a descent down steel pole steps and carved foot holes embedded into the cliff face, followed by a very old wooden plank walk way (about 60cm wide!) attached by rusting bolts, large nails and chains to the side of the cliff face.
I descended first followed by Floz, Glyn and Dave. There was no way Glyn was going to bottle this one, I could see the petrified determination in his eyes! It was incredibly unnerving but the insanity of the situation just made adrenaline take over. We climbed down to the wooden plank walk way clipping in and out of our harness as we went. We then carefully walked along the walkway looking down on a sheer drop but surrounded by the most beautiful views. The wind began to blow strongly which added to the madness of the situation.
We eventually made it along the rickety walkway and were rewarded by visiting another small Buddhist temple high in the mountains. We then had to climb back because there was no other way out! While clamoring
Exhausted after a long climb up
I dare not look down again (3000m up) around the cliff faces I took a million photos, but not one of them truly shows the scale and insanity of the climb. Whenever I reached for my camera I was clinging on for dear life with one hand, so I hope you appreciate them!
After the insane climb we eventually made our way to the highest peak (South Peak) and couldn't believe the stunning views. We spent some time there relaxing before descending back to the cable cars. Unfortunately we didn't realize what the time was and found that the cable cars had closed. We had to walk for another 1.5 hours down the mountain which was exhausting and painful. My legs felt like jelly, I had little control over the direction they would take me and none of us could walk by the time we reached the bottom.
We arrived at the bottom exhausted and tired only to find we missed the last bus back to Xian. Unfortunately we were in a very remote town and became very concerned. Lucky Glyn managed to find a small restaurant that was closing up. It took about an hour to explain to them that we needed 2 motorcycle to
Would you trust this path 3000m up?
At least they can put the nails in straight! lol take the 4 of us to the nearest trainstation. They didn't speak any English and we didn't have the electronic translator. It was a bloody nightmare.
Eventually 2 motorcycle taxis pulled up. With 3 people and a couple of bags on each motorbike we went down the mountain roads in complete darkness not knowing where these taxi drivers were taking us. We got very concerned when they started arguing among themselves and then took us down dodgy dirt roads through run down housing estates in complete darkness. It did cross our minds that we were about to get mugged, but lucky they were honest enough to take us to the most random train station in the middle of no-where. I still haven't got a clue where we were.
It was 9:00pm when we managed to book a train to Xian which did't leave until 11:30pm so we decided to risk it and try to find a small local restaurant. We stumbled into a very basic restaurant and were met with the most confused expressions on peoples faces. They looked at us as if to say "What the F*ck are 4 white people doing in our town in the
Completly Mental!
What was I thinking? middle of the night?". We sat there and had an unbelievably large Chinese meal for 25 Yuan each. We then bought a few bottles of beer to calm our nerves and walked back to the train station.
While in the train station we were met with the usual stares and confused expressions. They must have been wondering what on earth are 4 white boys were doing drinking beer in their tiny train station waiting room. I doubt foreigners ever arrive in this town.
We always find the Chinese people are eager to talk to us, but we just haven't got a clue what they are saying. Unfortunately we didn't have a clue what was going on in the train station, especially when we heard an announcement which resulted in 40 people suddenly picking up the benches of plastic chairs and fleeing the waiting room. We just sat there completely confused and in hysterics. We seriously thought it was some insane Chinese ritual or that they had suddenly decided to steal the chairs!. Little did we realize that it was an earthquake announcement. We just sat there completely oblivious.
After being pushed around by security, we were eventually
A dare too far?
I dared floz to hang over the edge too. He had to take it one step further! made to stand in line along the train station platform. Floz was shouted at for stepping out of line. It was our first introduction to law and order!
We finally made it back to Xian at 2:00am. We struggled to find a taxi to take us back to our youth hostel. Eventually I just climbed into a taxi, refused to get out and shoved the Chinese words for our yourth hostel in his face. Lucky all the lads backed me up by climbing into the back seat. The driver had no choice but to take us to the hostel. I am sure he was swearing at me in Chinese. He wasn't happy, he kept hitting the steering wheel!
While in the taxi, we noticed that hundreds of people were sleeping out in the streets. Apparently there was a serious earthquake warning and no one was prepared to sleep inside pooly built Chinese buildings. Because everything was in Chinese we were still oblivious to the warnings. We went back to our hostel and climbed into bed. We didn't realize it was a earthquake warning until the following day!
The whole day was so surreal.
Come on guys and girls, this blog has been viewed over 11,000 times. Leave me a message and let me know what you think. Makes the effort of writing a blog worth while. Cheers
Also see my blogs on:
The Most Dangerous Road In the World
http://www.travelblog.org/South-America/Bolivia/La-Paz-Department/Yungas-Road/blog-325021.html
The Most Dangerous Road In China
http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/China/Henan/blog-282743.html
Just to add...
A Polish Travel Company have got on to this blog and they have now published some of my photos on their website.
Sorry guys its all in Polish.. But it is kind of cool. Links are as follows:-
About Me in polish: http://pejzaze.onet.pl/1546596,61455,autor.html
Some more photos: http://pejzaze.onet.pl/64929,g,galeria.html
A complete dump of all my photos from Huashan can be found at:-
http://www.dazcrawford.smugmug.com/gallery/4995471_h3vvC#299541204_RZguU
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Ross Morrow
non-member comment
Darren, Only you could attempt to go up a mountain when there are Earthquake tremours going on up and down the country.... :) Glad you are okay - sounds like fun though. Ross