MAGNIFICENT ICE (and for once I'm not talking lanterns)

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We arrived into Franz Josef late afternoon on a very cold day. We wanted to walk this famous glacier and had already read up about it in out NZ book and various leaflets. Taking a stroll through the small quiant village we found the tour guides and decided on a half day climb. We would have really liked to do the 3 quarter day but it was fully booked and the full day was 8 hours long which we thought may be a bit much. So with that booked for the following day we returned to our carpark home we had found earlier. It sounds worse than it actually was as the carpark was at the back of a motel and had independent toilets and showers that were cleaner and nicer than some hostels we have stayed in. The weather had started to get quite cold so a nice hot shower and meal later we settled in with our little radiator on!!!! When we booked the walk the weather report was heavy rain for the morning so we booked for the afternoon, true to the report we woke to persistent pouring rain. We headed off for some internet time and got to the tour place at 12.30pm. Having been filled in on safety etc... we were togged out with walking boots, thick socks, waterproof jackets and our crampons for the ice walking. Having been loaded onto a bus to take us to the start of the track we were both quite hot having got so many layers on as we were advised. We ended up removing some but were advised not to leave them behind as we would need them when we got to the glacier. The bus ride was only 10 minutes through a winding road and then you are at the track start. walking through the forest we got our first glimpse of the glacier about 15 minutes later. The guide asked us how far away we thought it was and we were surprised to find that it looked a darn sight nearer than it was. The actual ice face was still nearly 2km away. As the river was high we were also advised that the walk to the terminal face would be harder than the actual glacier climb. Normally they take a much quicker and less taxing route over the river bed but with all of the rain through the night and the morning the river was rumbling through the valley. We walked right next to the river over rocks and boulders to get to the foot of the hill climb, it was tough and very steep. Climbing through the side of the hills up and down ladders some in very precarious positions. The steps were slippery and in places we were having to literally pull ourselves up on the hand chains it took well over an hour and then another 20 minutes over more rocks finally we got to the terminal face of the glacier. The ice is lodged right in between the valley walls and stretches back for miles. Our walk would take us onto the second section of the glacier but no where near the centre. We had a brief stop to put our crampons over our boots and get them in the correct position. They are literally pieces of metal with spikes that slip over the back and front of your boot and once tightened they are quite comfortable. One of the problems though is that at the foot of the glacier there is a mix of rock and ice sections so balance was a bit of a problem to begin with. The spikes scrape on the rocks like fingers down the blackboard and my teeth were really on edge!!! Once over the rocks we got to harder ice and this is when you really apprecaite what great bits of equipment they are. We had been given a demonstration of how to walk on the steps up the glacier and how to decend and after a good few minutes you do get used to stamping your foot quite hard to make sure you have a good grip. The steps up the ice are already cut in places from previous walks that day but at the beginning of everyday the guides have to re-cut them as the glacier is constantly moving. It advances down the valley between 1 -5 metres per day which is quite amazing. Any steep climbing sections have ropes to hold on to and these are very handy as you tackle the ice. Once up the first few sections you get to much cleaner and smoother ice and within 15 minutes we were entering our first glacier cave. It is truly unbelievable to see the blue ice so heavily compacted and smooth. We literally had to crawl through this tunnel like opening and heave ourselves out of the top. Fortunately Tim had the bag so at least I did not have that to contend with. The ice is so smooth you have nothing to grip and you have to rely on well placed feet!!!! After that we contiued our ascent and found ourselves on a very open section of the glacier. looking up at it's vast size our illusion was put into perspective when Tim saw a helicopter landing on a higher section and it was the size of an ant. Our guide told us that many people do not realise just how far away the back sections are as the illusion is that they look so much closer.

There is no where else in the world that has glaciers so close to the coast and it is all caused by the constant and vast amount of rain and snow the area receives each year. The snow gets compressed into the valley and in places the glacier is up to 40 metres thick. When you do get chance to stand still you can actually hear the rocks falling and lumps of ice dropping it is a really awesome feeling even if you do feel a little exposed to the elements and nature. The glacier was first explored in 1865 and the guided walks have been taking place for years. Our guide (from Loughborough!!) was really informative and keen for us to get the most out of our walk and took us to another couple of caves while we were up there. These were better than the first as we could stand in them and the ice was much bluer as we were further onto the glacier. We are both really plased with the pictures and really enjoyed it. As with everything all too soon it is time up and we started our descent down the glacier we had been up there a good 90 minutes and it was really starting to drop cold. Extra layers had been reapplied when we put our crampons on and even though we had gloves my fingers were freezing. On our way down we walked through a crevice in the glacier and that was truly stunning. The walls ascending high on each side oh and a 2 metre drop on the right hand side as we entered!!!! That was a real highlight if a little nerve racking in places. What is special about the Franz Josef walk is that the guides are cutting the steps with a pick all the time as you walk. On the descent which again was quite unnerving in places the steps were constantly being recut as they either melt or crumble. I was quite glad to get to the bottom even if we did have to face walking on the rocks in our crampons again. I was quite tired by this time and we still had the hill hike to get through. By the time we reached the bus I was shattered and looking forward to a hot shower. Neither of us had expected to walk on a glacier when we planned NZ but it was simply the most bizarre experience and well worth the 50 quid we spent as you cant go up without a guide although you can walk to the base. I dont think we would have been as impressed if we had not actually gone up the face as from the bottom the ice is very dirty and you dont really get the true impact of its size. It was a very different activity to experience!!! We stayed back at our carpark that night as it was quite late when we got back and it seemed to make sense to stay another night and have a guaranteed shower!!!

The following morning we spent a little more time on the internet and then began our 250km journey to Wanaka. I know I keep putting in my blog updates great scenery, beautiful this and beautiful that but in all honesty the south island is a truly extraordinary place for scenery and that days drive to Wanaka was no different. We were driving through the southern alps still and it is just amazing when you round a corner and there is a waterfall right next to the road running down into a crystal clear and stunning blue stream. We passed so many waterfalls that day and also Lake Hawea and Lake Wanaka. The views are truly magnificent, the lakes look like glass and the surrounding powerful and rugged mountains tower over their calm waters adding to their beauty. The peace and tranquility provide a great setting to contemplate life!!!

As the day drew on we did find a lovely spot by one of the lakes perfect for us to set up camp. It had a proper fire grate and we were tucked right in from the road. We had been there around 10 minutes when the sand flies swarmed in. That put pay to the idea of staying as even with bug spray we were still suffering and we had found to our peril that if they get in the van just one can make a meal out of you all night. We headed on with our original plan to go to Wanaka town. There we found a larger than normal town but no where near 'busy' purchased some goodies and enjoyed a lovely meal of our first new zealand lamb. It was delicious!! After a good nights sleep we decided before we left Wanaka we would visit puzzleworld which was on the outskirts of the town. We did not know much about it but our NZ book had said that it was not to be missed. As it turned out our $12 to do the illusion rooms and the maze was well spent and it was really entertaining and once again different. The illusion rooms were great full of all sorts of tricks and tom foolery to keep you guessing how they do it. The maze was knackering but great fun. I had never been in a maze before and although to start with we felt we should have stolen some kids and taken them with us we embraced our childish behaviour and spent ages racing through it to reach the different coloured corners. We did the first 3 together and the final one we raced against each other it was really funny keep passing each other with looks of panic and frustration. Tim beat me by 2 minutes in the end but it was really good fun. We left Wanaka early afternoon and headed off for Queenstown, I had been partly dreading getting here as this was where we had planned to Bungi jump. This is the one thing in life that I have not really wanted to do but knew that if I didnt I would truly regret it. Tim has done one before and we have discussed it many times over the years. To me I just do not feel comfortable jumping off anything with elastic tied to my feet. I am much happier being strapped into something or someone who makes the decision for you. The drive that day I contemplated what I was going to do and if I could actually do it and still wasnt sure at the end of it!!!! However, to distract my attention from this topic the drive was once again amazing. We were travelling high in the mountains where the clouds were below us and in places we were over 1000 metres above sea level. I was very glad that Tim was doing the driving again as some of the cliff drops were staggering and there are no barriers on the road edge. After all of the weaving through the mountain we hit our descent into Arrowtown on the outskirts of Queenstown. I have to say if I had been driving I would have stopped the car and refused to go down the road. It was unbelievably steep and the turns were so tight, the road had sheer cliff edges and to top it all it also had roadworks. At one point I'd actually got my eyes closed as we tried to make a turn and a large lorry also tried to come up the other way. It was terrible and Tim admitted when we got to the bottom that it was the worst a scariest road he had driven on. So after our traumatic road trip we found a camp grounds in Arrowtown which were really pretty and enjoyed a few beers and another good meal (Im getting quite good at cooking a dinner with one gas burner!!!!). We planned to head into Queenstown the following day to sort out the bungi and I was trying very hard to block it from thoughts...................................

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Comments

[Wendy]

ICE LANTERNS - OH BUGGER!
The mention of Ice lanterns bring back some memories!! You know what I mean don't you Ms Whittaker!!!