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Published: April 18th 2008
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As you all know by now, I can't seem to sit still for long periods of time. Perhaps its some form of ADHD, but I am frequently living with my head in the clouds, even while on vacation. After an action-packed 10 weeks in the hectic metropolis of La Paz, I decided it was finally time to move on to my originally intended destination in the jungle...but only after one last adrenaline fix. Challenged by the ascent of the last mountain, Huayna Potosi, but yawning over the lack of technical stimulation, I began seeking out peaks in the area that were a bit more hands on.
...And thus stumbled upon the stunning Condoriri massif in the Cordillera Real. After posting advertisements to recruit other climbers I had three more on board - a friendly but novice Canadian, a rock-climbing German girl and an outdoor-savvy English bloke. Together we set off on a 4 day high-altitude expedition which covered many miles and two challenging peaks, each at over 17,000 feet.
I the tiny mountain village of Tuni, home to about 5 families, we loaded a couple of burros with food, tents and technical gear and hit the trail.
With fully loaded packs we hiked about 5 miles in to base camp at the rim of a 15,000 ft. glacial lake and the foot of several imposing giants, each looming thousands of intimidating feet above and daring us to climb them. As the rainy season was just coming to an end, high climbing season had not yet begun and we were the only inhabitants of a usually crowded base camp. After months spent waking up to the noise of the city, the silence was sweet indeed.
On day two we awoke at 1:00 a.m. at hit the black trail at 2:00, trudging for hours across rolling glacial moraines before reaching the giant headwall of la Cabeza del Condor. Via a steep access couloir we climbed onto the glacier above and roped together before crossing crevasse-riddled territory. With the first rays of sun we reached the final summit block, a steep 1,000 feet of snowy couloir climbing followed by an incredibly airy and exposed knife ridge leading to the summit. Once on the dicey ridge we moved slowly and carefully, at times with one leg on either side as the solitary path was so narrow. As I crested
one of the final humps at about 18,400 feet I could see the homestretch to the summit...and our guide sitting about 50 meters shy of it. When I arrived he explained to me that with the morning sun the snow was softening rapidly and would no longer support the pickets we had been using for anchors, meaning that if someone fell during the summit push then the other two on the rope team would be pulled off as well. As the ridge was already dangerously narrow, and the final pitch included some particularly steep sections, we collectively decided to turn around. It was difficult, being so close to the top and the first to climb the peak all year, but the summit was simply not worth the risk. A quote from accomplished mountaineer, Ed Viestiurs popped into my head, " getting to the top is optional - getting down is mandatory." And so, without regret and still immensely proud of the challenge we had surmounted, we gingerly descended to more solid ground and congratulated one another once back at base camp.
After a healthy afternoon siesta and early dinner, we turned in inside our tents only to wake
again at 2:00 a.m. and attempt neighboring peak, Pequeño Alpamayo. Though shorter in altitude at 17,750 feet, the approach to the peak was long and taxing as we ascended a massive glacier, glistening like a sprawling body of water under the reflection of our headlamps. We first summited sister peak Tarija in order to descend a mixed rock and snow gully and arrive at the foot of Pequeño Alpamayo, a veritable shark's tooth in shape.
While the German and Canadian rope team ascended via the standard ridge, British George and I had loftier ambitions and traversed to the bottom of the huge south face. With dual ice axes in hand we then attacked the South wall directly, picking and kicking up a sustained 65-70 degree snow and ice slope that stretched into the clouds 800 feet above. After 2 months of acclimatizing in La Paz, I felt stronger than ever and plowed upwards without so much as a minor headache. George, however, having recently arrived from sea level in Chile, struggled quite a bit, though persevered to the summit in about an hour and a half. Together we celebrated and enjoyed the occasional views from the tiny summit
as we sat catching our breath in the clouds.
To base camp we returned, triumphant in our summit and proud to know that we were the first climbers in 2008 to ascend the mountain via the South face's direct route. As dark afternoon weather closed in we retreated to the warmth of our tents, happy to sleep off our fatigue and to be surprised with dinner in bed, delivered directly by our camp cook to the tent doorstep.
Day 4 was a treat with an 8:00 a.m sleep in and casual trek back to Tuni, breathing deeply the fresh air and satisfied from an unforgettable expedition. The showers felt hotter and the beer fresher than ever back in La Paz, and after getting my mountain fix I was happy to sleep on a soft mattress once again.
I have now headed far downhill to the jungle where I am attempting to tame the wild beasts of the Amazon. Thanks for following and stay tuned for more updates... Andrew
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Alli
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Andrew - you truly are a modern day adventurer!