Santiago

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The next day in la Serena it was cold and overcast in the morning. Finally mananged to get out and wander around the town, lovely place, really relaxed. Caught up on internet admin! Met some English girls travelling with and Australian man from Santiago. Got chatting to Pancho, the cobbler at the hostel. We talked about everything from the best growing conditions for grapes to the economy under Pinochet. Love talking to the older generation - their stories are often fascinating! Got up fairly early and caught the bus to Santiago. I suddenly felt really excited, i was going to a city like BA, where i could blend in and not get stared at! In Bolivia I really stood out as a foreigner, but ive missed knowing that i could pass as say, Argentinian in BA, where its so multicultural. We followed the coastline south, it was so incredibly beautiful, with the mountains on my left and the sea on my right, a jagged, rocky coast that reminded me of Portugals southern coastline.

Got to the hostel, La Casa Roja: an amazing colonial building, high ceilings, ornate moulding everywhere, even a chandelier in my room! First time in a mixed dorm, cant say i like it much. Met some nice guys, inc. Alex and Steph from London, and Paul and Mark from Oz. Alex cooked us all spag bol and i chatted to people a while before having a fairly early night. Next day i went on a girly trip into town with Steph and two other girls, Fran and Lisa. Bought some flip flops and came back to find Mark had been cornered by gun toting American John - both were trying to outdo each other in a deep and meaningful about the nature of language, truth and freedom, using the most pretentious language they could - very funny to listen to. There was a BBQ that night, combined with a quiz fundraiser for the Chilean cricket team. Somehow i got roped into waitressing in exchange for two nights free accommodation. Was on my feet all night, but it was worth it! After the crowds had gone, AJ, the organiser and cricket team coach, let us lay into the left over alcohol. Someone produced the inevitable guitar and we all had a drunken mass group sing-a-long. Got to bed about 6am!

Next day i went on a sightsee, climbed Santa Lucia, one of the hills in the city, and looked out at the view. Santiago is so beautifully set, on a plain with these towering mountains covered in snow. Wandered around a lot before coming home and going to the supermarket with Paul and Mark. I cooked them a roast chicken dinner, complete with roast potatoes and carrots and peas, only the potatoes weren't fluffy enough (my dad makes the bestest fluffiest roasties) the carrots were too hard, and there wasnt any gravy. The boys were gracious enough, but i know i'll never be the next Jamie Oliver: why didnt you pass your cooking genes on to me mum?!? Was knackered and had an early night. Next day I had another wander round Santiago, went up San Cristobal and looked out over the city, came back and Paul cooked us bacon and eggs on toast for dinner. Had some beer and went to bed early. Paul and Mark left early to go to Mendoza, and I bought a ticket for the afternoon there. The combined factors - missing Argentina like mad, never having got round to going to Mendoza, and the prospect of not travelling on my own for a while all clinched the deal. The ride over the Andes was breathtakingly spectacular, they weren't just mountains, they were these sheer black cliff faces, ice and snow tumbling down to the road as it wound up and up and up. We took the highest pass you can take, right up near the peaks, it was stunning.

Met a nice girl, Tanya, on the bus, and went with her to a hostel 'Campo Base', really friendly, like 'Backpackers' in Salta. Managed to find Paul and Mark and we all moved in. Pretty early night, then we all went on a wine tour the next day. Ive seen so many bodegas now in my life, but it was great tasting some excellent Mendocian wine. We met up for drinks and some food with guys we met on the tour who were at another hostel. One of them was a bit of a twat, calling me 'spanish girl' and demanding I translate 'this is the worst steak ive ever eaten in Argentina' (needless to say he was drunk) The steak was fine, just a bit fatty, and, hugely embarassed like everyone else, i apologized to the waiter. Wednesday and Thursday we did a lot of wandering around and sitting in the shade being lazy. I loved Mendoza, its so pretty - all low rise (due to a previous earthquake) and every street wide and tree lined. When Paul left for Salta on Thursday, and me for Chile on Friday, it was pretty damn sad. I cried for the friends I was losing - when you get something back that you dont realise you've been missing so desperately much, then promptly lose it again - its heartbreaking. Travelling alone is nearly impossible sometimes.

We crossed back over the Andes and eventually arrived in Santiago, and a few friendly faces from my last visit to la Casa Roja. Went on a mission to find an adaptor, resulting in every member of staff in an electronics shop laughing at my disastrous Spanglish and mimes for 'plug'. Sunday I went to get a bus up the road to Valparaiso (up the road being a measley 2 hours) idiot that i am, I didnt check the time on my ticket and missed the bus. I pleaded with the guy at the ticket office to change it - its such a simple proceedure, less than a minute: a stamp here, a signature there....He turned my ticket over in his hands in deep thought, a frown on his face. This was obviously more than his jobs worth. I pulled out the big guns, and gave him the absolute best puppy dog eyes I could muster. He sighed and gave in, and i caught the next bus - 15 minutes later. Valparaiso is a city of two halfs, half perched on the hills above the sea, half clinging on to the strip of land in between the hills and the sea. Its quite run down in places, and i didnt feel as comfortable as when Im in Santiago. Still, I had a good wander around a flea market and the centre. Took a furnicular up to the hills above, such a rickety old thing - most of them date from the early 19th century. Great views over the bay. Came back down and found the big naval headquarters, infront of which was some sort of international photo competition, the theme obviously the human body. These huge blown up pictures were all of naked people, all ages, most with lots of body paint on. I went down to the port in time to catch a show of traditional Chilean dancing. Felt very cultured and pleased with myself, and caught the bus back to Santiago, and the metro home. Got to have a quick mention for the Santiago metro: its amazing. Spotless and fast, all chrome and black. In BA i never did a single journey, not a single one, without having a beggar ask for money. On the Santiago metro i didnt see a single one, so thumbs up to the Santiago council. Early night again, 4.30am start!

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Comments

[Ian]

Thanks!
I have just been sat here for the last hour or so reading your journal (albeit backwards). Sounds like you had and awsome time, and you journals are really well writen - first class. Thanks for getting me all excited about my trip (May-Sept - Quito to BA)!! Keep up the surfing when you get back!!