Ruarwe means Wherearewe

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Picture this - you are 19 years old and are backpacking around Africa on your own. You come to this most beautiful spot on the remote northern shores of Lake Malawi, high on the rocks above the water, and just steps away from a crashing river that tumbles over multiple little falls into perfect swimming holes. You mention to the chief that the place is beautiful. And he gives it to you. Just like that. Hands it over and asks you to develop it.

Well, that's what happened to Charlie, a tall and lanky now-26-year-old Brit who has taken this lovely spot and turned it into the highlight of our adventure.

Getting there was surprisingly easy. After traveling north along the central stretch of Lake Malawi over land, we jumped at the chance to get back on the Ilala ferry and visit more remote parts of the lake. Ruarwe, on the northeastern side of things, is a quiet village spread out along the hills that skirt the shore. Charlie's place, Zulunkhuni River Lodge - formerly Wherearewe -- is tucked in among the trees and rocks in a little dip between the settlements on the hills.

Our days there were a heavenly mix of swimming in the cascading pools of the river, snorkeling in the lake among neon blue fish, waking on our little tented perch overlooking the lake, wandering through the villages with a swarm of escorts below the age of ten, scampering up the river and over and under the falls, and enjoying the five-hour trek to Usisya, the next village to the south.

There was a magic about Ruarwe. Perhaps it was the mix of stunning nature and real, human interaction with people in the village. Perhaps it was our awe at Charlie's creating a spot that is so appealing to visitors and so inoffensive to locals. Perhaps it was the fact that we arrived by boat and departed on foot. Whatever it was, Ruarwe goes down as our favorite place so far. - stl

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Photos

On the Trail

Peeeeeee-oooooooo!
The food staple in Ruarwe is nsima made with cassava flour. First the cassava root is soaked, then pounded, then dried in these little heaps in the sun, then pounded again and finally boiled to make nsima.

The Uzungus Disrupt Class on the Way to Usisya

Usisya Buddy
This kid hung out with us for ages as we waited for a truck that never came. He loved Jonathon's hat. We loved him in it.

Comments

[Susanne from Germany]

I love Ruarwe and Usisya
The most beautiful place were I've been in Malawi!