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Published: March 24th 2008
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Varanasi, the City of Life, is one of India's oldest and holiest cities. It was founded, where the Ganges, Varuna and Assi rivers meet, over 3000 years ago. Hindus believe that the city is tied to the god Shiva, the creator and destroyer (who essentially plays the roll of your super-fun but kinda sketchy drunk stoner friend in the Hindu Pantheon). For a number of reasons Hindus attempt to make at least one pilgrimage to Varanasi during their lifetime and it is also regarded as the most holy place to die, as a death in Varanasi will release a soul from the cycle of rebirth into nirvana. In the case that a person does not die in Varanasi, the next best thing is to be cremated there...
We arrived in Varanasi and started our own pilgrimage to find a hotel. We were pretty beat from the train ride but managed to meander down Varanasi's maze of tiny lanes and side streets and find a hotel right in the old town. We immediately set out on a little walk along the Ganges. The river is lined with ghats (stairs leading to the water) where people bathe, pray, beg, do yoga and
Sadhus
One Covered with Ash generally hang out. There is also an obscene amount of cow, dog and people poop and urine along the alleys and river walkways, so we had to tred carefully while taking in the sites … and smells. Varanasi and the Ganges are insanely dirty and polluted.
Along the river, there are many holy men called sadhus, who have dedicated their lives to meditation and religion and, as these guys are followers of Shiva, drugs. These guys are crazy looking with dreadlocked hair and beards, wild-eyes and painted faces, wearing bright orange robes and often carrying tridents. They beg for money along the river front and it is considered good karma to support their habit with some loose change. We had heard stories of curses from the Sadhus, so although we didn't give money very often, we were sure to give a cheery 'Namaste' (a formal hello) to each as we passed to ensure we stayed curse free!
Most of the ghats are bathing ghats, but the ghat where we were staying - Manikarnika Ghat - was the cremation ghat, where bodies are burned out in the open all day and all night. The families of the deceased carried
the bodies of their dead relatives through the lanes and streets, passing by our hotel on their way to the ghat, chanting and shouting all the way. Once a procession arrived at the ghat, they would dip the cloth wrapped body into the Ganges and then place it on platform made of firewood, preferably sandalwood (which is too expensive for most families). At that point a holy man comes to perform a ceremony and reveal the face of the deceased. Then the boys who work at the ghat light and stoke the fire. After the body has burned for a while the skull is broken with a stick, which releases the soul from the body. Finally, the remains of the body are thrown into the Ganges and those who tended the fire search through the ashes for any jewelry. We were told that they do not burn the bodies of children under a certain age, pregnant women, or lepers. Instead, they just throw those bodies directly into the Ganges to decompose - this is the same river that pilgrims bathe in to cleanse away their sins. We hope this isn't true!
We watched the cremation of an elderly man,
who was surrounded by his relatives as the flames consumed his body. It was strange to watch the cremation of a human body. It was so foreign to us to be so close to death.
The bathing ghats were also really interesting to watch, and best viewed from a row boat. We took a boat out at dawn to watch the action at the ghats unfold at their prime time. We were well aware of how polluted the Ganges is before coming to India, but were still quite shocked by the grunge level when we were there. In the morning, as we rowed through the garbage/sewer water, we watched others taking morning baths and brushing their teeth in the river. We were also amazed with the amount of westerners who were following suit. Perhaps they were caught up in the spirituality of Varanasi and the Ganges, or perhaps they had just lost their minds. Either way, I'm sure there will be a few doctors appointments in their near future.
On our first night, the city was crazed with the celebration of Shivaratri - a celebration in honour of the God Shiva. We were coming home from dinner that
Little lane full of Perverts
From the safety of our rooftop restaurant night and passed thousands of young men with painted faces, chanting and marching through the narrow lanes of old Varanasi all drugged on Bhang Lassis (Indian yogurt smoothies spiked with potent levels of marijuana). During the night they march for 35 km without shoes! As they passed many of them would whistle and jeer at me. Every fifth guy would grab at my breasts, crotch or ass as they walked by. My little green scarf didn't do the trick that night!! Chris fought back against the first few guys who tried, but there were too many drugged up, aggressive men for Chris to really do or say anything, so we just walked as quickly as we could back to our hotel. It was really scary and I was pretty shaken by the time we arrived, but from the safety of the rooftop restaurant, we were able to take in the action below without "participating". We went to sleep with the sounds of the madness in the streets below.
The next morning was quiet in Varanasi except for the occasional procession, taking their loved-one to the cremation ghat. The smell of smoky barbeque from down the lane at the cremation
ghat was in the air - yes, it smells like they're over-cooking steaks! We had breakfast at our hotel and watched kids from all over the city flying kites from the roof tops of the buildings. We headed out into the town to check out some more of Varanasi. The drugged up lunatics from the night before were sleepy and limping from their long march around the cobblestone streets.
We made it to the Assi Ghat, at other end of the river walk at the, which seemed to be a much less hectic area. My best friend, Jen, had recommended a hotel at this end, and like an idiot, I opted to stay in the middle of the action. Likely I would have been able to avoid the whole Shivaratri groping festival had I taken her good advice. You can't get it right all the time. Anyway, we stayed down there for most of the day and had some dinner. Afterwards, we took an evening row boat back to our crazy end. The only downside of what sounds to be a lovely evening boat ride down the river was the number of mosquitoes, flies and moths hovering on the
top of the water (obviously attracted to the raw sewage and garbage). As we swatted the bugs, we watched all the prayers, music and fire ceremonies along the river. We got out of our boat at the cremation ghat and walked back up the lane to our hotel.
Varanasi was a heady mix of spirituality, smoky air, pollution, filth, apprehension and intrigue. The highs and lows of the Varanasi rollercoaster were extreme, but overall we both found it to be fascinating. India is not always a good experience, but it is an
experience!
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kuching
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childhood visit to city
I have been to Varanasi at the age of 8 years but still I remember the marriage attended by my parents and myself and enjoyed the trip to Varanasi. I loved each places of the temples of the city specially the temple of Buddha. I want to visist once more if I ever get a chace to go with my family.