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Published: February 17th 2008
The Golden Candle
This was in Ubon, they have a Candle Festival every year...This world is so tiny, and yet so huge. I really ponder whether I will see much of it at all. But if "this world is a book and those who don't travel only read one page", than at least I have read a few.
I am blessed to have such a wonderful place to stay here in Chiang Mai. It is out in the country-side and therefore quite tranquil and beautiful, surrounded by orchids, banana and coconut palms, papaya trees, bright fuschia colored hibiscus and bougainvilla, morning glory climbing the trees that have mystical tendrils of vines hanging down to the pathways that lead to the various 'destinations' of their yard. Including the recovered-teak, hand built house that I fortunate enough to reside in for these 5 days in Thailand's second largest city next to Bangkok. I have seen but a fraction of what this amazing metropolis has to offer, the rest will have to wait for future planet wanderings.
Yesterday was plum full of stimuli. First we awoke, ate, and dashed out into Ban Sang, the 'town' that is absolutely buzzing with factories and handicrafts. First we visited the Thai Silk Factory which was a terribly too elite mingling
Temporary Traveling Buddies
The two on my left are a sweet couple from The Netherlands, and the older guy is from Sweden...quite brusk and stoic he was! of fabulously stunning silk garments of every fashion from scarfs to kimono-robes to bed-spreads and flowy evening gowns, mixed with a tad too many German, French, American and other pasty-white extraordinarily wealthy-looking package-tour-bus-tourists. Other than the slightly sour taste in my mouth from being stared at by these people who were probably thinking 'now seriously, what IS this young puffy white girl in obviously half-rate clothing and sandals doing in THIS establishment'....now I know I'm exaggerating, but it certainly felt like I walked into a caste system while merely trying to witness the absolutely fascinating process of how silk is made. And it WAS fascinating. I can't quite figure out if I feel extraordinarily amazed by these little worm-like creatures that work so hard to create their symmetrical little cocoons and eventually hatch to turn into frenetic-flapping-light-worshipers and probably don't even 'realize' that they are being dried and boiled to death and turned into some the world's finest textiles...or if I am just tremendously sorry for them. Either way it was wonderful to witness the tedious yet intricate process by which silk is created. I was overwhelmed with the exorbitant prices, but truly these are some of the finest silks
The little guys at Riki's
Aren't they adorable...I didn't put a picture yet of their little eggs, but I love watching them grow up! in the world, and for a fraction of the price sold in the US...so I bought a few nice scarfs colored by natural dyes, and a couple key-chains...
Then, off to the Silverware workshop, not to be confused with cutlery. I was starting to feel a little uncomfortable with the mass-tourism showiness of these factories, thinking they may be a little kitchy and not so authentic when my graceful guides, Noi and Pong Si, explained to me that it is actually quite genuine and authentic. The villiagers and hill-tribe people that would truly be making these creations (silk, celadon ceramics, silver work, umbrellas etc) in their villages, this is just a way for them to bring the craft TO the people and inform and educate about the interesting steps taken to create such beauty, rather than the inevitable millions of tourists that would show up in AC tour-buses and completely destroy the simple way of life out in the hills/mountains/plains. So...I felt my heart-rate slow down and I could relax a little more into this day of viewing and shopping.
I bought a sterling silver chain that I actually wasn't terribly excited about, or at least was not quite what
I was looking for, but felt a little pressure to buy. The silver relief work was breathtakingly beautiful and unamginably intricate. Some of the larger pieces that were about 6' by 10' took 3-6 years to complete by master silversmiths. They use cooled tar as a malleable surface on which to pound with various instruments, the thin silver sheets, creating gorgeous works of art depicting scenes of history like the beloved King Rama the V 's abolition of slavery or showing a time with Elephants were working in the teak forestry and other industries. Quite neat. Plus, I was the only 'customer' in the entire complex, arriving and leaving in the short breathing breaks between bus-loads. Refreshing!
Next destination was lunch where we ate Koi Soi (no idea how to spell it) which is a Northern Thai dish with yellow noodles in a slightly sweet and spicy coconut milk soup with crispy noodles on top...one of my new favorites! We walked accross the street to the umbrella factory and watched step by step as they made every shape and size of umbrella out of bamboo and mulberry-bark paper which they then paint a multitude of designs on and are beautifully
Can you believe this T-shirt???
I think Bush came up with this quote :) displayed in their huge show-room.
Last stop for the morning-turned afternoon trip was the Celedon Factory where I didn't spend so much time in the factory as the show-room/shop where I marveled at the beauty of endless rows of ceramics, all glazed with the luminescent and transparent crackled blue, green and clear. My craving for sitting at a potters wheel came back full force and I promised myself I'd be sitting in a ceramics/pottery class again someday soon.
We then headed toward the Baptist school (almost 5000 students!) where Noi's 7 yr old adorable bundle of braids and smiles, Diu needed to be picked up. It was neat seeing the thousands of students all parading around and playing in the playground, all wearing identical red skirt with white blouse with two french braids (girls) or blue shorts and white shirt with buzz cuts for boys. We also visited the hill-tribe farmer's market that sets up in one of the school's courtyards and I tasted a tried a few new treats and we picked up some veggies for dinner.
Well...I am back in Bangkok, writing my last S.E. Asian blog (for this trip😊 in the same location where Dave wrote
his last blog, on Khao San road. I am going to do a little last bit of shopping before I head towards Riki's home where I will relax for a day before flying home! This time truly flew by, and I can't wait to find myself in this magical country again...Laos too. Perhaps someday when I have more time for volunteering and meditating, connecting and serving. This has been a truly wonderful taste, and only a taste, of this astounding and fascinating part of the world. I have barely even skimmed the surface and yet it has left a deep mark on my heart. I love this place. I will miss the pressed-palms "Sawadee" greeting, the beaming smiles, the gentle game of bargaining, the mix mash of cultures and languages, the outrageously good food, the warmth of the culture and environment. It has been an adventure, one filled with contemplation and insight. I have not seen much of this world, but each time I look through the window of a foreign land, a new side of myself is revealed.
I finished my book yesterday, sitting in the shade on the porch of the Family/Friend guest house in Chiang Mai, "Music
Fountains everywhere
Pong Sri does such an amazing job of designing her garden! In Every Room; Around the World in a Bad Mood" by John Krich...I could relate to him on so many occasions, and his bok was written when I was born! I highly recommend the book to any traveler.
Signing off, I will miss this form of connection with you all, but I truly look forward to being able to talk on the phone or hug in person!
Sending you loads of Love from Thailand,
Heather Beth
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Joanne
non-member comment
wow
Your trip sounds really amazing. How is it that you have connections all the way in Thailand? The closest connection I have is that my school here in Holland has a campus there. lol. Sending love.