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Published: October 7th 2007
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Well, it's been a week since the last entry. And what a week it's been!
On Monday Jez thought it was only fair for him to be ill since Bridget has done her fair share, so he went down with a spot of altitude sickness after flying from Arequipa (2300 metres above sea level) to Cusco (3200 metres). This was a bit surprising as we've been at much higher altitudes. Symptoms of numb fingers and feeling "spaced out" prompted our assistant nurse (Stuart) to run off to the pharmacy for a remedy (followed by a slow stroll back after feeling lightheaded himself!)
The rest of the day was spent trying to sort out the major cock-up that the tour agency had made with our Inca Trail booking. To cut a long story short they hadn't booked us on the trail despite the fact that we had sent the deposit in March! The "classic" Inca Trail gets booked up well in advance, so we had to go on a different trail. They recommended the "Huarocondo Trail", three days walking followed by a train ride to Machu Picchu on day four.
We could probably write a book about the
trip, but as you should really be getting back to work anytime now (you know who you are!) we will just give you the highs and lows.
Highs... outstanding undisturbed scenery, not seeing another gringo for three days, the sense of achievement after reaching the top of a peak after hours of uphill walking, seeing newly-discovered Inca ruins being excavated (and being the very first gringos to walk on steps which had just been unearthed), walking into Machu Picchu at 6 a.m. and watching the early morning mist clear before us, camping in the wilderness for two nights without creature comforts (Bridget), beautifully clear night skies to stargaze, playing cards in a freezing cold tent on a mountain while it was snowing outside.
Lows... camping in the wilderness for two nights without creature comforts (Jez), walking downhill for hours in the blazing heat putting pressure on all limbs (Bridget), walking uphill for hours in the blazing heat and having to wear a flannel for protection (Stuart), having to crap in a foot-deep hole in the ground in the pitch black whilst freezing cold at midnight (Jez), the anxious feeling of knowing night and a thunderstorm are
Stuart of Arabia surveys his empire.
Thanks to Grandma Phipps for the flannel! fast-approaching while we were still walking around a mountain because the guide had either got lost or mis-calculated the time (all).
We finally arrived at Machu Picchu on Saturday morning at 6 a.m., and were treated to a spectacular sight as the early morning mist first descended then cleared over the ancient Inca city and the mountain of the same name that it lies beneath. Our guide took us around the whole site which really helped to bring it to life, and his obvious love for the Inca culture helped us to appreciate the significance of Machu Picchu.
On the train back to Cusco we each came up with a word to describe the trek and Machu Picchu. Bridget's were "outstanding" for the trek and "awesome" for MP, Stuart's were "breathtaking" for the trek (in both senses of the word) and "breathtaking" for MP, and Jez's were "exhausting" for the trek and "weird" for MP (in a good way).
A little anecdote about the train ride back to Cusco:
While we were sitting in the train station at MP, the music playing over the PA was "The Beatles on Pan Pipes" (yes, as bad
At the highest point of the trek, 4800 metres.
L-R Antonio our guide, Jez, Bridget, Sue the emergency horse, Hernan the porter, Stuart of Arabia (in short sleeved shirt!) as it sounds). When "Hey Jude" came on a large proportion of the gringos joined in with the pan pipes, whistling, singing, humming, and of course a rousing "Naaa, Na, Na, Na-Na-Na-Naaaaaaaaaa" during the closing refrain. Certainly brought a smile to our faces (even Bridget who was in the ladies at the time).
One more thing. We have noticed that we have all developed a catchprase over the last couple of weeks.
Jez's is "that's not bad, is it?" after converting the Peruvian price of just about anything into pounds.
Bridget's is "how much is that?" after failing to convert the Peruvian price into pounds.
Stuart's is "no, gracias" after yet another street-seller has offered him some piece of tat. (Whereas most gringos just ignore these people, Stuart can often be heard saying "It's very lovely but I already have one, thank you very much.")
Thanks for all the messages we have received, it is nice to hear from back home every now and again.}
Right, we're off to "The Real McCoy's" pub here in Cusco for Sunday Roast and a nice pint of Old Speckled Hen.
Byeeeeeee
Jez, Bridge, and Stu.
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Matt and Lou
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Real McCoy
Hi guys, Only just caught up with your blog, great to read through all the places we've been to - and even better the ones we missed!! We did make it to the pub you mentioned though. (A few home comforts go down well every now and again eh?!) Your inca trail sounds pretty cool - hard work though isn't it? Anyway, hope you are both well, we have now subscribed, so will watch the rest of your trip with interest! Love Matt and Lou