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Published: August 10th 2007
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KO PHI PHI
With hordes of tourists we lemminged our way down the ferryboat gangplank and on to the
sole pier in Ko Phi Phi island.
This magnificent tropical island settles peacefully off the south western shore of
Thailand, in the Indian Ocean. The island is shaped like a double-edged axe with two
crystal clear turquoise bays, one facing the north and one to the south, separated by a
narrow strip of golden sand. The tsunami washed most of this 5 mile long and two mile
wide, paradise including some 1400 unfortunate inhabitants and tourists.
A speedy recovery effort managed to weave a new net of cheap souvenir shops, tattoo
parlors, food stalls, cyber cafes, dive shops, rock climbing shops, and countless bars
in await for the tourist legions.
That wasn't exactly what we had in mind.
Chloe and I were looking for quite, and we found it on a small secluded beach on the
east side of the island, in a low-end bungalow resort that was a bit on the Robinson
Crusoe side. Electricity only a few hours a night - etc. Very friendly stuff that
didn't look at you like a walking ATM. Closest Internet was in
town - one hour walk,
over a mountain covered by jungle. Did Robinson have Coconut and rum shakes in late
afternoon?
A WALK IN THE JUNGLE
On the second day I walked energetically to the end of our sand strip. And back. Then
again. 300 meter long and narrow beach enclosed by rocks and jungle on the 3 dry sides.
Chloe was oscillating peacefully in a hammock under a leaning palm tree, while
burrowing through her thick novel with the speed and precision of a dentist drill. She
looked happy as a clam. Who did psychoanalysis on clams to determine their happiness
level and compared his findings to other creatures?
I paced the tranquil beach a couple of more times, listening to the tiny waves and
watching the different speeds different palm leafs moved with the same ocean breeze. Am
I getting too poetic on you? Don't worry, soon I'll bitch about something and your
distorted image of me - of being a cantankerous, cynical, opinionated lucky bastard -
will be restored.
I picked up a few essentials and charged into the jungle path, over the mountain,
towards town, with the same exuberant as an 18Th century
Jesuit missionary in Africa.
I'll bear the truth. If I can find it.
It was hot and sticky. Every molecule of air seemed to carry a canteen of water on it's
atom belt. The path was clear into the dense foliage. A centipedes crossed my path. I
almost stepped on its foot, stepped on it foot, stepped on its foot...Then a lizard.
Ya-ck, I can't stand lizards. Then another lizard and a couple more centipedes. I
slowed down. This crawling display might have bigger crawling relatives.
Snakes ??
King cobra resides on some Thai islands and so does his bigger cousin the boa
constrictor. Thanks you very much. I stopped and looked around. Every dangling crooked
vine was covering itself with scales, in my mind, as I watched. It seemed like
everything was alive around me, and crawling.
Then I heard a loud crunching sound, way above me, and saw a monkey traversing agilely
between two tall trees. fast.
SHIT !! A monkey !! I'm in a fucking Jungle. This is not Griffith park next to the 101
fwy in Los Angles. I muffled my scream. I didn't want to wake the snakes that might
still be napping from
last night full moon party.
I moved on faster, my eyes scanning the ground, trees, vines. Full speed head Captain Z
and keep an eye on the Reptile Radar as you listen for the beeps!
Another centipede crossed the pass with two buddys. Can one record the sound of a
centipedes stampede? What is happening in my mind. I don't remember taking any drugs.
Is that a stripped Day-Glo-colored cat smiling at me from the top of the fern on the
right?
Was Lewis Carroll in Ko Phi Phi?
The next day I braved the same trip again with Chloe. She insisted that the lizards are
more afraid of me then I should be of them. Sure Chloe, now that there are two of us.
Then I saw the snake!!
It was sliding up a trunk of a tree some 4 feet away. A green skinny little bugger,
about 20 inches long with little black markings that looked like he got in a tattoo
parlor on a drunken night in town. Chloe was so excited and moved closer to take a
shot. "He is so cute".
"Cute????". I thought of the viper, the krait, the asp and Cleopatra. Wasn't
she rolled
into a carpet ? I am not totally clear about this part. I want another cocktail.
MONSOON RAIN OVER A TROPICAL ISLAND
I love the sound and ferocity of the, almost daily, monsoon rain this time of the year
in Thailand. Drops of water that look like they were bought at Costco, and with
quantity that is definitely wholesale. Just pronouncing "Tropical monsoon rain" has
exotic flair to it even if you listen to it on your disk-man while riding the subway
under the Bronx.
MAGNIFICENT CORRAL REEF
Almost forgot - we snorkeled a lot on the island - Superb!!!
I chose not to go diving this time cause i didn't want to deal with the short term
thrill seeking tourists.
Did you hug a Brussels Sprout today?
Love
Zeev
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Jackie
non-member comment
Oh phi Phi
Lovely place. enjoyed reading. keep them coming.