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Published: March 13th 2007
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Viñales
Campesino working his field with two beautiful oxens... VIÑALES
This rural part of Cuba was a true pleasure for the eyes! The small village was surrounded by limestone " mountains" and lush agricultural fields. Palm trees and fruit trees were filled with delicious pineapples, mangoes, oranges, grapefruits.... The coffee cultivated by the farmers had a delicious taste and wonderful smell! I have rarely tasted such coffee! The tobacco fields were abundant and you could see the numerous "wooden warehouses" were the tobacco was dried. We had fresh fruits and freshly grounded coffee everyday.
We were relatively quiet during our stay in Viñales as we were both trying to recover from a bad cold that we caught at Maria La Gorda. We were walking throughout the fields, eating fruits with the farmers, enjoying the tranquility of the valley while discussing with the people. Farmers generously offered us "freshly rolled" cigars made from their own tobacco and welcoming us in their homes. The atmosphere of this region was so friendly! The nice Canadian couple who stayed at our casa also made our trip to Viñales a very pleasant and interesting experience.
LA HAVANA
The Cuban capital La Havana is an unique city where music is constantly
Viñales
A beautiful view of the green Viñales valley... played and where people are walking (and dancing!) on the streets at every hour of the day. The architecture of the buildings is simply stunning despite the fact that most of them are not well maintained. However, some restauration efforts have been made, and encouraged by their ally, President Chavez from Venezuela, to preserve these neighbourhoods.
It is important to remember that this socialist state has no private enterprise: everything is state-run from the hotels, stores to the restaurants. Everybody receives a fixed monthly salary while everybody contributes to the national economy. Even if the overall level of living standards is average, everybody is on that same level, everybody is equally "rich". The absence of disparity between people is what struck me the most after spending several months in South America. However, some countries will qualify Cuba as an uncivilized nation and undemocratic state led by a savage leader. Let's see....Everybody works, education is free and mandatory, health care is accessible and free, housing is provided to everyone, there is no income disparity...I think these democratic capitalist countries should review their claims! Many Cubans have told us that they appreciate the system they have but that they would like
Viñales
A garden owned and maintained by two nuns who grow a multitude of fruits and medicinal plants... this overall level of wealth to increase for everyone...This is not a perfect system but definitely one to learn from!
Fidel Castro has insisted on the absence of personality cult among Cubans. He does not want statue or monument to his person. In my view, his charisma and history are plenty sufficient! He is slowly recoverying from his surgery complications and most people look forward to see him back. One quote from a cab driver struck me: " Who is the wealthiest man in the world?" - "Bill Gates!" - " No, Fidel Castro is. He owns a country and the heart and love of his Cubans. He is the wealthiest man on earth!". If this answer is the one of most Cubans, this cab driver is damn right!
One of the numerous interesting aspects of Cuba is its dual economy. Basically, two currencies are circulating in the hands of both Cubans and tourists: the CUC and the Cuban peso (referred as "moneda nacional"). While one CUC is stronger than one American dollar, approximately 24 pesos are needed for 1 CUC. The entire touristic industry functions in CUC and some products, mostly imported and luxury items, are priced
Viñales
One of the many colourful exotic flowers found in the garden... in CUC. No need to say that because of the strength of the CUC, all Cubans want to put their hands on them and will therefore attempt to get the money from the tourists, whether by working as a taxi driver or a waiter...or by selling illegal cigars! On the other side, vegetables, fruits, street pizza, some local meals will be priced in pesos. For us, travelling students, we quickly changed our CUC in pesos in order to access the 10 peso pizza and 10 peso beer, with of course some healthy bananas and ananas! However, meat and dairy products are priced in CUC for everyone, which makes it a luxury for the Cubans. Therefore, if you wanted to please a Cuban, you will buy him some Nestle chocolate and cheese!
The "casas particulares" are houses controlled by the state and run by their "owners" where tourists can stay at a regulated price and eat, if they decide so. Besides hotels, these are the only options and their fees are high compared to the ones of South American hostels. Controllers come a regular basis to verify if no fraud is occuring and harsh penalties are imposed if there is
Viñales
A relaxing afternoon walk in the garden... any illegal procedure. Loosing your home being is one of them. Besides, the "owners" pay taxes to "run" these homes for tourists. I have to admit that despite the high prices, it is very pleasant to be welcome in someone's old colonial home! As we also learned from our casa hosts, fish and seafood cannot be served in the casa: it is illegal to sell this kind of food to your guests! I have also been told that the state fears that affordable good homemade seafood and fish will become preferred to restaurant food, and the latter may loose significant business.
I have also noticed that art and music are widely recognized. Being an artist or a musician is as important as being an engineer. In addition, doctors are also as important as musicians. I have met with an eye surgeon living in a small apartment who was working in Venezuela on a regular basis and performing special surgeries on blind people to recover their eye sight. He is as rich as the street vendor and as competent as an American doctor. He told me that there were many Cuban doctors and Cuban hospitals in Venezuela to compensate for
Viñales
Many farmers cultivate tobacco for the cigar industry the important need but low supply of doctors. These Cuban doctors are "traded" for oil and steel materials from Venezuela.
These are only few of my numerous observations of the Cuban nation. It has been an enriching experience to be in such a different but fascinating country. For its cultural shock, wonderful people and magical beaches, Cuba is a country to be visited!
P.S. Please note that there is a second page filled with additional photos which can be accessed by pressing the "Next" bottom.
Next destination: Bogota, Colombia
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Annette
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Wonderful read and awesome photographs.. Annette xo