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Published: August 6th 2007
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Kovalam
Red snapper! 2nd entry. It should be noted that Ash is the main journalist, whilst Ade is performing proof reading and minor editoral functions!
After a few delays and Ash's initial stomach churning anxiety at her virgin voyage on a propeller plane, we landed in Trivandrum in one piece and without the use of the sick bag (which was in doubt at one point). The difference in temperature was quite apparent as the steam could be seen rising off the runway! Wohoo, could it be Ash will finally get a tan?
A rickshaw to Kovalam Beach was secured having been duped into paying nearly double the original fare we'd agreed, but we chalked it down to experience and looked forward to our swim. We stopped at a restaurant at one end of Hawah Beach (there are two beaches beside one, Hawah Beach and Kovalam Beach, another split naturally by some rocks and the natural curve of both) to get our bearings and cool down before we found somewhere to sleep. A huge altercation broke out between the owner and another local (with several of his mates in attendance) right beside our table. There was plenty of shouting and a few shoves,
Kovalam
Midnight procession during which little girls were escorted off the premises. We were starting to get a bit anxious but after 5 minutes the guy finally left and we were able to get up from our seat without standing in the middle.
Finding a place was a breeze and we really lucked out. Our room was practically on the beach so no renting of beach beds and umbrellas necessary. Kovalam is very picturesque with a lighthouse at one end of the cresent shaped cove and some rocks and beached fishing boats at the other. We were right in the middle! Theory of being cool at the beach was flawed though; the sea did nothing to freshen the air much to our dismay. During the day we got a nice breeze but at night it became very hot and stuffy and we melted. Once we stepped off the prominade we could hear loud hippy chanting music pumping from the temple which took a little getting used to. We swam once or twice a day although technically there isn't a lot of swimming possible at Kovalam Beach. There are huge crashing waves constantly which we tried to jump over, dive under or let
Kovalam sunset
Taken from our balcony! them drag us tumbling through them. They are very strong though so we took a few hits each. Quite exhilarating! Ash brought out the perscription googles and you can imagine her distress at the thought of wearing them down to the beach. Ade led some days but the bullet was bitten on others. Pretty fashionable I can tell you.
From very early in the morning right through till the afternoon fishermen are out on the beach tugging on huge long ropes, pulling in the nets. It looked like hard work out in the sun and involved about 20 men altogether. They didn't seem to have any days off either, which wasn't surprising as every second or third building along the beach front is a restaurant displaying fresh fish caught that day. A lot of the visitors to Kovalam are western, on package holidays. There are also many Indian families. Restaurants were shut with the lights off from 10-11.30 each night and there isn't a party scene here.
One night around midnight while we were sitting out on our balcony we heard some drumming in the distance that seemed to be getting closer. We turned off our music and
listened to what seemed to be coming straight for us. We looked over the side wall and a procession of people with flags, drums, symbols, some in costumes and all chanting and singing were coming through the lane below us and walked out onto the beach. In a real Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom moment we thought the crowds of drugged people were coming to sacrifice us but luckily they were heading to the beach to get some salt water for part of their ritual. Seems there was a temple festival on that week, although that's as much info as we got from our waiter the next day so we don't know exactly what the ritual was for.
Places we ate at while we were there; Lonely Planet (a bit run down from when Ade rememberes it 9 years back - hippyesque but nice food), Spice Village, Fusion (very yummy fish curry) and the Coconut Grove (we stayed in rooms attached the this restaurant). Food was delicious and we took advantage of so much fresh fish about. We picked out a mighty red snapper and watched it being scewered and cooked in front of us before we tucked in. There was more than enough fish for 4 but we (mostly Ade) managed. Prices vary a lot around the area, those on the beach front are much more expensive than those a 30 second walk from it.
Anticipating many hours of boredom head during our travelling days we picked up a wooden backgammon and chess set. It's pretty nice and not too onerous to carry around. Ade dug out the rules for backgammon (with the aid of the internet) and we played while finishing off our duty free whiskey. One thing we were fascinated by was loads of little lights out at sea from the fishermen on their boats. Some would have motor boats and the lights would move about quickly but most sat in one place all night. There were about 15 on the first night but there were too many to count the other nights. It looked like a city at sea.
While we were here we had our first laundry experience so far. It's a fairly manual process as I'm sure you can imagine and not one we are looking forward to repeating every few days but part of the deal so must be endured. At least we'll be getting regular exercise so India diet may happen after all as we may sweat it all off. We certainly won't get any skinnier from eating less!
Fearing the predicted photosensitivity side effect from our anti-malaria tablets we decided to get some tailor made long sleeved shirts for protection from one of the many tradesmen in the area. They had a ready made one for Ash but Ade selected material and was measured up for a tailor made job, which was collected in suitable cermony the following day.
Creatures still making their appearances known; several mice (one looking suspiciously like a rat) scurrying over a Ganesh shrine next to where we were scoffing some food & an over-sized beetle type thing on the appartment next to us.
Really enjoyed Kovalam, next step Kanyakumari, at the southern most tip of India.
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Alan Cream
non-member comment
Sounds like youse are having great crack well Jealous, lazy days are great