So good things ahead, but good things to leave behind

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Kathmandu… some people love it, some people hate it. As for me, I simply adored it all. If you look beyond the pollution, the stink, the trash piles, the agressive traffic, the incessant honking, the homeless or drug-addicted child beggars, the rickshaw drivers chanting “rickshaw, rickshaw,” getting ripped-off, the feeling of danger lurking in the alleys, the power outages, the Maoist strikes that paralyzes the city, the travel-agency/hash/souvenior shop touts hounding you all over the Thamel streets, and, of course the insanity… well, if you look beyond all that, there’s a lot to love about this mad city.

After my travel companion left, I spent few days strolling around Thamel with my book The Kite Runner (love it!), popping in and out of different restaurants/cafes and just enjoying the day. Although there are a lot of touts hassling foriegners, once you walk into a garden or patio, it's like you're in a different place and all that noise is just droned out. I must say that around the touristy areas, I have gotten sick of the "Namaste (hello), how are you. Are you from Japan? Konichiwa" and when they see I'm not responding, "Chinese? Nihao. Korean? Ahn-nyung ha sa-yo. Can I talk to you for a minute, please? Excuse me, please, excuse me...we have beautiful ________ (pasminas, necklaces, tours, etc). Just have a look please..." It's like EVERY-freaking-WHERE! I hate to simply ignore them, but I have to because once I make eye-contact and say something in response like "Namaste," the nonversation just starts flowing and I'm trapped. What's a nonversation, you ask? Well, word-wizard Sebastian made it up to define conversations that are pointless and empty. As long as I'm ranting, another thing about Nepal is that they have these raging power outages. I'll be writing an email and then...POW! the computer, lights, music... everything goes off. Quite frustrating not only when you're on the computer, but also when you're in the shower (warm water stops), sitting on the toliet (in pitch black darkness), reading in your room (there goes that), walking through the streets at night (freaky), among other instances I can't remember at this moment. Luckily, when I switched from my first guesthouse to Kathmandu Guest House, they had generators running with minimal backup power, which was better than no power.

I spent more time here than I had originally planned, and for several reasons. ::One:: my friend and former editor from my El Camino days, Geeta, a Nepali, moved back to Nepal after nearly a decade in the States. Needless to say, our reunion was great…to see her again, but this time, in her element (servants, drivers, assistants and all!😊). ::Two:: the food, the food, the FOOD! Thai, Italian, Nepali, Korean, Mexican, Creole, Chinese, Indian, American/steak, Continental, Japanese, Middle Eastern, etc… mamamia! I had just about the greatest and gluttonous culinary splurge while in Kathmandu. I gained some weight but it was all for a great cause! ::Three:: I met some really great, intelligent, eccentric people here (Sebastian-Italiano; Owen-American; Doreen-Dutch; the GTD crew?) while at my humble abode, Kathmandu Guest House, and had many great talks, goofs and smokes with them. Great company, great times, great memories. ::Four:: there are great little escapes all around the area, so spending a day with a good book/magazine can take you beyond Nepal, to a different world, beyond the hustle and bustle of the city. That’s the true danger of Kathmandu… time can fly so fast, over lazy, sunny, afternoons. ::Five:: there is a radical change going on in my life right now, and I needed to sort out my mind of all the complexities that were consuming my once simple, one-tracked mind. It’s interesting how one thing can disrupt all that I’ve known and change my future and outlook on life, and who I feel as a person. With that said, to quote a friend, such good things ahead, but good things to leave behind. It’s the pain of leaving things behind that is such the devastating and humanistic aspect of life. If only the pain of it all could vaporize as quickly as water does on a warm day—out of sight, out of mind. But of course, the reality of it all is that life is f*cked and you have to feel it all: the good, the bad, and the very, very, very bad. So I guess I’m fulfilling what my dad wanted me to get out of this trip… to learn more about myself as an individual and to reevaluate all the things of my past, and to have a clearer vision for what I want for my future. If only...

Well, some of my days was spent catching up with Geeta. She is getting married in April/May, and I am fortunate enough to be invited to this special day. I will be flying back to Nepal from India to attend the wedding. I can’t wait. She and Prassar have been going out for 11 years! They are such the graceful couple, and I had the pleasure of spending a great evening with them over some fantastic Indian cuisine. Yum. Other days were spent with her cousins, friends, and servants (j/k, sort of). Also, Geeta rescued me from all day cry-fests. She has some sort of freakish telepathy, where she senses my sadness, and to the rescue she comes! On another day, I went to visit her house and met her lovely parents, and it was so interesting seeing her in her home, her country, her life. When we would meet at my guesthouse in Thamel, every time she would come with another person, and I would say, “Oh, is that your fiancé/father/cousin/etc?” and the answer would always be, “No, he’s our driver/helper/assistant/etc.” And I was like, “What?!?! Geeta, this is sooooo nuts!” and she would reply, “Gracie, this is Nepal. You don’t have to do anything here!” It was so different seeing Geeta in Nepal, and Geeta, the hard-working slave/ student/ editor/ waitress I knew from Torrance…but the essence of Geeta never changes! For that, I love her. Great times, once again.

I needed to get my India visa, and lazy me, left it to the last minute. Upon research, I found that this is no normal visa-acquiring affair. It's a horrendous, three-day painintheass affair. I will spare the looooong tedious story, but here is a recap:
(1) Tuesday, arrived at 6 a.m. although they open at 9:30 b/c apparently, the lines get pretty crazy, and if you get there too late, too bad for you! There was one other man waiting, and it turned out that this was all in vain b/c it's not peak season, and there aren't that many people needing the Indian visa now. The embarrassing thing was that there was a dog trying to get it on with another dog, and the man and I stood there, awkwardly laughing at the situation. If this weren't bad enough, some lady accused me of cutting in line when I returned from a quick breakfast. Even after I told her that I'd been there since 6 a.m. so STFU, she continued to nag and told me to get in the end of the line and "be glorious." %!(BADWIDTH)%!#(MISSING)$&# I almost popped her in the eye)
(2) Four hours after getting there, I finally got in, and they gave me a piece of paper, and told me to fill it in and come back in three days
(3) Came back Friday and turned it in. Was told to come back in 7 hours, at 4:30 p.m.
(4) Came for the (drum roll) visa!! Yay! Unnecessary, time-wasting procedures, but in the end, victory! 😊

Ok, so this story has two climaxes! The second happened during breakfast. I met this guy, Rob, and we got chatting, and turns out that he's an ex-Peace Corps member who started his own non-profit organization in Nepal. It's called Himalayan Healers and it's an organization that helps the untouchable castes to become independent and active members of society. These people are either born into this caste, or circumstances made them into one, such as widows of the Maoist war, women who left their abusive spouses, women rescued from the sex trade industry, among others. So he offers a program for these women to train in Ayurvedic, Tibetan, and Indigenous/Nepali massage techniques, and eventually places them in its spas throughout Nepal. It has recently started to gain momentum, so it's a matter of time before they expand even more. These students get paid very well in Nepali standards, so they are in a position to become independent and break free from the societal barriers and prejudices that limits them. It's profound how people are capable of changing the world, one person at a time, when they put thought into action. We met up on another day and had the most amazing talk. When he was in Peace Corps, he found out that the corps were engaging in corruption, by swindling money and double charging the government for funds. As he started digging up more and more information, the Peace Corp got the U.S. gov't involved and defamed him for things he didn't do, and completely deterioated his reputation and image. Sick of all the B.S. and bureaucracy, he went and started his own stuff. His courage, determination and perseverance is such an inspiration. In Nepal, you see lots of things like this, people helping people. This Chilean woman I met, Kali, said don't bother giving the child beggars money. It's pointless. They will use it for drugs, or they are getting pimped to do so. Instead, come here and make a change in the injustices that you see. So she is here, starting an orphanage for Maoist children. Amazing...

I didn't start visiting sites until nearly a week after I got into Kathmandu. The first place I went to was Swayambhunath, which is simplified to tourists as the Monkey Temple, for the obvious reason that monkeys rule the place, roaming freely throughout the compounds, stealing food here and there. It was such a delight watching these monkeys… they are so much like humans, in the way they function. The Swayambhunath (Rs 75/$1.10) is an important Buddhist temple, and it is thought to have been built in AD 460, with additional work and restoration being done throughout the centuries. After the agonizing, steep ascent to the top, I reached the stupa, dominant among the littered prayer flags, with those mystical eyes of Buddha staring down. Despite the numerous amounts of stupas I’ve seen, big and small, I continue to be fascinated each time I see one and feed off of the positive energy of the atmosphere. The ride back down to Thamel (the area in Kathmandu that I'm staying at) was not so enjoyable. Regardless of the fact that everyone drive like madmen here, the taxi driver I managed to flag down looked no older than 13 years old, and this kid not only drove like a madman, he also had no fear or any sense! I thought I would witness my first murder during the 7 km drive down the pedestrian-filled winding roads.

Feeling guilty that I have done nothing in Kathmandu but relax, eat, read and eat, I set out to see another site, Pashupatinath, regarded as Nepal’s most significant Hindu temple as the sacred temple of Shiva, the Destroyer of Evil who is considered to be one of the most important and worshipped of all the gods in the Hindu religion (and one who happened to smoke pot). As a non-Hindu, I’m not allowed to enter the actual temple, but I can walk around the outer compounds. While walking towards the Pashupatinath, I was greeted by a young guy offering to act as a tour guide. After much negotiation, we happily settled on a price (which I later found out I got ripped off!) and he took me around. He first showed me the riverbanks of the Bagmati, which is Nepal’s holy river (like India's Ganges River), where all people come to get cremated after death, for reincarnation. The upper part of the river is for the royal family or the wealthier people, while the lower part of the river has six cremation ghats for the common or poorer people. When the royal family was massacred in 2001, all 10 of them were cremated here. While I was there, there were some cremations going on, and no sign of women. I learned from my guide that women are not allowed to be there because they are weak and they will cry. Actually, I did see men crying there as well because in all honestly, death is something that pains anyone, man or woman. The concept of this is just so fascinating. We also checked out other parts, like the cave homes of pseudo-sadus (holy men), according to my guide, who bless you with a tikka (dot on forhead) and expect money from you, which happened to me (when I gave him 20 rupees, he asked for 200 rupees!); 11 stone chaityas (small stupas), which represents fertility, and each chaitya has a symbol of Shiva’s masculine assets, ahem; and Panch Deval, a former temple that now acts as a center for the impoverished elderly and the sick. Coincedentally, I was in Nepal for Shivaratri (The Night of Lord Shiva), the birthday of Shiva, where people pilgrimage to Pashupatinath from all over, including from India and SE Asia, to celebrate and get high (remember, he's the pot-smoking Hindu god).

I also had the luck of being here for Losar, which is the Tibetan New Year. Weird to say, but I felt more of an authentic and vibrant Tibetan presence in Nepal than I did in Tibet. I’m sure it’s because of the Chinese monopoly on the culture, religion and freedom of the Tibetans in Tibet. Yet, another reminder of the atrocities happening in Tibet. I met Parasar's (Geeta’s fiancé) friend, Tenzing, who is a second generation Tibetan living in Nepal. I was so surprised when I heard that he’s never been to his native land, but not so surprised when he reasoned that why should he have to apply to the Chinese gov’t for permission to visit his own country? Well, the three-day Losar celebration was in full-swing, and Owen, Doreen and I went to Bodhnath (Boudha), which has the world’s largest stupa (Bodhnath Stupa), and is the primary religious center for the Tibetan exiles living in Nepal, who can freely engage in prostrations (like a full-body bow), chanting prayers, and making the circumambulation around the Stupa. It is such a powerful feeling being there, knowing what I know, seeing what I’ve seen, and feeling the pureness of what it all symbolizes. There is such overwhelming, positive energy there, and the glowing, white dome of the stupa adds to the essence of it all. Additional to the monks, pilgrimers and Tibetans, many mountaineers and Serpas come here for prayer before taking off for a journey through the Himalayas, a practice done by traders in the olden days, before the convenience of paved roads and planes. The wonders of technology. We also went to the Tibetan community center and watched some traditional dance and heard some ear-piercing, near deafening, music. I’m not sure what kind of music it was, but they sure should do something about their sound system. Not good for the hearing.

On my last night in Kathmandu, I decided to finally go to the famous, traditionally preserved Durbar Square, a UNESCO Heritage Site famous for housing the palaces of the kings who once ruled over the city. The LP guide shows a leisurely "do-it-yourself" 2hour stroll from Thamel to Durbar, but I think that somewhere along the way, I turned a wrong corner, or two, or three, and the next thing I know, or more like don't know, is where the heck I am! The LP maps aren't the best in the world, so I tried to navigate my way, asking for directions along the way. The tricky thing about asking for directions or things in Nepal is that most locals will never say "No" or things to that nature to avoid seeming unhelpful. So they will either make it up, or just say "Yes." So on this particular day, I was getting directions back and forth! I finally made it to Durbar Square (yay!), and walked around the street markets. Anyways, after passing through the market, I went over to the Kumari Bahal, which houses the living goddess (who remains a goddess until she gets her period, then she's just a normal folk like you and me). Was a nice, lazy afternoon.

For what was supposed to be my last night in Kathmandu, I had a very productive night. I had a bus to catch leaving for Pokhara, a neighboring town 210 km away, the following Saturday morning at 7 a.m. so I wanted to keep it rated PG-13. Geeta picked me up and brought me to her house, and we spent a nice evening with some Nepali food, looking at her engagement party video (an extravagant 2-day hurrah), and chilling out with her mom. We headed out to Thamel after, and went to Le Bistro to meet with her cousin and his friends. After a few drinks, we moved over to New Orleans and had mucho, mucho drinks. Then the party hopping really began. We started off at J-Bar, which is a posh, LA-esque lounge, with the Nepali elite. Interesting contrast to the stuff on the other side of the wall. Anyway, everyone in there looked gorgeous and snobby! 😊 Then we headed to a Losar party (great vibe), before heading off to another party that played funny music. Finally, the bar-hopping madness ended at Via Via, a bar owned by a lovely Tibetan/German and Belgium couple, celebrating the bar's 4 year anniversary. I met up with the GTD crew there and we headed back, picked up some sandwiches, and chilled out some more at our party pad. Was a nice night...

...if only I woke up on time for my bus to Pokhara. Oh well! Another great day to spend in Kathmandu. I had some great local Nepali food, and tried it with my fingers for the first time. It was delicious!!! Geeta once said, that food tastes better without the silverwear. I can see the truth in that. Afterwards, I bought a new ticket to Pokhara and packed my stuff. Before I knew it, it was already dinner time! We had a wonderful dinner at what Sebastian said is the best Italian restaurant in town, a comment not to be taken lightly considering this is coming from a 100%!I(MISSING)taliano! So we went and had nice wine with nice good with nice company.

I planned to go from Kathmandu to Pokhara, to do a trek on the Annapurna Range. Being short on time, and my laziness getting the better of me, I will now paraglide over the range. :T As they say in Thailand, same same but different . 😊

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Photos

Now this is what I call teamwork!
Sort of like the freak dance, except they're picking lice

Stupa
Bodhnath

Fruits
Durbar Square

Italian restaurant across my guesthouse (good pizza)
Thamel

Don't worry. He's just napping
A view from the top of Kathmandu Guest House

Budda's watchful eyes
the third eye on top represents insight

Nothing quite says I love you
than picking lice out of your body (and eating it!)

Riverbanks of the Bagmati
...this is where the lower caste gets cremated

Incredible...
Stupa at the Bodhnath. Note the Tibetans in the bottom corner and compare the scale..this stupa is really big!

Looks like a game at the Collesium!
Tibetan community center

I'm so pimp! haha :)
Sebastian me Owen at ViaVia

Sebastian and Doreen at Marco polo
Out last night together. Great food and wine with great company.

Rooftop cafes...so nice
Thamel

Comments

[Pris]

DAMN CHINA!!!

[joanne]

wow, looks amazing. sorry i havent been writing, works been mad busy lately and i was just in miami last weekend for work. i sure do miss you babe, and i love reading ur site when i have the time - its a mini vacation for me as well. love you , miss you. be safe.

[Jenny]

So much fun in NEPAL/TIBET
Just got back from VIETNAM, and checked on your blog. Great to hear that you are doing ok. Sorry I can't be there for you, but I am rooting you on. Give me a call or e-mail when you get the chance. I'm going to start getting more busy at the end of March, but I miss you lots girl. Hang in there and keep trekking~!

[Brent]

Graycie Crazie
I'm jealous and inspired by your freedom and excitement. You are really soaking it up and glad to hear you were a fan of Kathmandu...you will probably fall in love with the rest of Nepal, especially the greener sides where you plan to hanglide. I'll be along for your ride in spirit...keep us posted on your intriguing world and stay safe!

[Rob Buckley]

Thank you :)
Hello Grace, Just came across your blog entry on our work in Nepal, thank you so much for the kind words and for sharing. Health, Happiness, and Peace, Rob Founder / Director / Volunteer