Chiang Mai to Pai - Written by Louise

---

Although we were sad to be leaving Laos, it was great to have arrived in Thailand, a place we had been keen to explore from the outset, and to know that we had more friends to meet around the corner. Already, everything seemed too easy. The pristine mini-bus had enough space for each passenger and, bags secured safely to the roof, it left and arrived exactly on time.

Chiang Mai felt huge, after the 'cities' of Laos, with its traffic jams and shopping malls. We took Alex's recommendation and headed to the Royal Guesthouse; nice place, shame about the seven flights of stairs to get to our room! We were bursting to meet our next travelling companions Michael and Amanda and created much noise and excitement as we were reunited in the hotel lobby later that night. Amanda and Michael had been spending time on the islands and in Chiang Mai and had been keenly awaiting our arrival.

We spent time in Chiang Mai, Christmas shopping in the market and visiting a cool bar with an open rooftop. Drinking Vodka, lime and lemonade, we watched lanterns being released from the square below and floating up to join the starry sky. Chiang Mai, a town with a square moat marking its epicentre, also had a nice park. The boys had a kick-around and we relaxed and watched the passers-by, with their wide variety of dogs, amble over and around the small lake in the park's centre.

We made plans to leave and explore the northern town, Pai; famous among travellers for its easy-going, trendy feel.

The journey by bus to Pai, on a long and winding road over hill and valley, left all four of us feeling decidedly queasy. Gathering composure we followed our lead for the new, cheap beach huts along the river over a bamboo bridge. Saving money, we opted for huts with no ensuite and felt pleased with our selection; a pristine hut each with a balcony, and a matress with mosquito nets inside.

Pai is a travellers' haven. It has loads of cafes, restaurants, bars, shops, galleries, trekking agencies and internet cafes. Everything was set up for relaxation, but with plenty of options for things to do in the surrounding area too. Tourists in Pai usually hire motorbikes and we had already weighed up the idea of this along the course of our journey. I remembered what my Mum always said about motorbikes and wasn't sure about it, but there was really no other way of getting around, so we decided to try it the following morning. That night we realised how cold it was in the north. With straw walls, through which the wind could howl, we had a cold night in our little hut. It was already begining to feel like Christmas!

Riding the motorbike was easy. We hire 115cc's; one per couple. Michael and I (David not having a license of any sort) took the driving seats and practised with the controls in order to get the hang of it. We opted to visit the hot springs, but realised when we arrived that they were a little overpriced, and so decided not to bother after all. David had a go on the motorbike and did very well, despite my anxiety! Next we visited the canyon; a series of deep, cavernous valleys connected by raised sections of creamy-coloured sandy ground on which to explore the landscape. We took photographs, and braved the narrow pathways before heading back on the road.

I was riding the bike again and gaining confidence. The roads were good and I kept a steady pace, when all of a sudden, I felt the motorbike shift to the left. I tried to correct it, but nothing seemed to work. The motobike became impossible to control. It hit the dirt lining the roadside and skidded. Holding on for dear life, my body was pulled to the ground and the bike skidded ahead of me. David had instinctively let go, and was now on his feet screaming out in distress. We both shouted so loud for the others to come back, but they were long gone; way out of earshot.

I didn't dare to move for fear of what had happened to me. I could feel the grazes and wounds but was almost numb with the shock of the reality of what had happened. Face down, I was unable to see my injuries, but could feel that my lip was cut and was aware of the people gathering around me. A gentle male, American voice guided me onto my back and inspected my injuries, asking me questions and reassuring me. This American couple had turned up and, noticing the accident, come over to help us. They were very kind and gentle. By now, Amanda and Michael had realised we were no longer trailing them and had returned to the scene while everything was being organised around us. I was sitting up, and then standing, and got into the front of a pick-up truck while David got in the back; open to the elements. As the Thai driver sped along I considered the prospect of a long journey ahead of us, and looked down at my knees, one of which was shredded up badly. I held back the tears. Looking back to see David holding on to the side of the truck, I could see that his shoulder was in a similar state; his face in anguish against the pain, the shock and the fast breeze as we rushed along.

Before five minutes was up, we pulled into Pai hospital and, with relief and trepidation, approached the waiting room. The staff took care of us immediately and cleaned our wounds. I had a cut on my head which needed two stiches (probably an impact wound from the helmet I was wearing). My nose and lip were grazed, along with my right arm, left foot and fingers. My knees were the worst of the wounds, grit from the road had cut deep into a large area of tissue. David had not been hurt quite as badly. One of his knees was badly grazed, as was his wrist. The worst of his injuries was his shoulder which had a deep, dirty gash requiring particular attention (with scissors!).

Before long, we were patched up and released, having each received a course of antibiotics. We would have to go back in to the hospital for the next five days (the last of our appointments being Christmas Eve) to have our wounds cleaned and dressings changed.

Amanda made it easy for us to get back, blagging a ride in an ambulance to the bamboo bridge where she gently guided us across. Michael, meanwhile, had sorted out the bike, which was undamaged, and got back the deposit for us. We rested on our balcony and took stock of the situation. Unable to face the discomfort of a cold night and an outdoor toilet, we decided to spend a bit more money and find a cosier home in which to recover. Amanda scouted around Pai and found us a perfect cabin with ensuite, internet and its very own cat to aid our recovery. Like a guardian angel, this cat never left my side. Just having it there made me feel better and, knowing I was hurt, he snuggled up to me until the following morning.

We spent the next couple of days doing very little, Amanda and Michael cheering us up, bringing food, treats and flowers and generally keeping us going. David did his bit too, fetching things for me and helping me out of bed and with my shoes and socks! Struggling to the hospital was a bit of a drag. It was only a short walk away but I was increadibly slow on my feet and with no taxis or rickshaws, we really had no choice but to go by foot. The long, straight road to Pai Hospital will forever be imprinted on my brain. Groundhog Day-like, we walked past the same shops and restaurants under the warm sun, arriving at the hospital to have the dressings painfully removed, the wounds cleaned and the new dressings applied. We were counting down the days 'till Christmas Day, when we would no longer need to go.

So, that was our routine: Hospital for a dose of pain, lunch, relaxing in the hut or going to the 'cinema' (a video shop with private viewing rooms), chilling with Amanda and Michael, bed! David and Micheal also got into the routine of playing football with the locals every afternoon (despite his knee injury) which they both enjoyed.

Christmas Eve had arrived, and so had our last appointment at the hospital! However, when we arrived there, they gave me a local anaesthetic to remove the dead tissue in my knee, and prescribed me another course of antibiotics. Worse still, we were told that I would need to continue the hospital visits for a further 10 days, including tomorrow! I was totally crestfallen, and couldn't prevent the tears from rolling down my cheeks. The idea of more of this treatment, and the thought of how it would ruin now Christmas and our future plans, was too much to bear.

We hobbled back into town and checked into our Christmas accomodation - a smart chalet set within a beautiful garden. Michael and Amanda had set up their hammock, and Alex was back with us to join in the festivities. I had to cheer up. A quick phone call home snapped me out of it, reminding me that 'it could be worse', 'I'll be ok', and 'I'm a Tilbury!' and with this ringing in my ears, I found the positivity to get me through.

Christmas day really did feel christmassy. Having spent the previous night huddled in the cold northern weather under blankets on Michael and Amanda's balcony, listening to christmas tunes, a bit of tinsel here and there, we woke up full of christmas cheer. After breakfast, we opened our presents! I got lots of jewellery, best of all, earrings with little red pom-poms! David got a torch/laser reading light and a t-shirt, and we all exchanged small fun things to amuse us on the day, to a playlist of christmas classics.

Off to the hospital then. This time we found a taxi (as if by Christmas magic) and Amanda came with us to train as our nurse for when we left Pai in a day or two. We weren't going to let this spoil our itinerary and we would have to find a way to do the dressings ourselves.

Christmas dinner was almost right: chicken, with gravy, mash and veg, and a glass of wine! Although we missed our 'pigs-in-blankets', it was a nice occassion. David wore his santa hat, and after dinner, we headed to the movie house to watch 'The Godfather.'

One more day left in Pai. We decided to fill it by hiring a car, and the five of us went to explore a nearby waterfall. We lunched in a bar and played pool and petanque (French bowls) while chatting with some other travellers. It was soon time to say goodbye to Alex (who was off to India) and goodbye to Pai. I was glad to be moving on from this motorbike-filled place, which held memories of my frustrating recovery, and I awaited the beaches; a place where I could begin to feel like myself again.

---

Photos

Louise having her portrait painted
Nim, a young artist took 5 minutes to create his own impression of me and Amanda. We made friends with him.

David's christmas breakfast
You can imagine how thrilled David was when he saw this slap-up complimentary feast from our posh guesthouse!

Comments

[june & graham]

a bit of a tear-jerker!
We had been waiting for this part of the trip with trepidation having been on the receiving end of the tearful phone call. Thanks for sparing us the gory medical photos! Louise with the cat and plastered nose brought a lump to the throat and a smile to our faces!