Vientiane and Vang Vieng


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Asia » Laos » West » Vientiane
November 30th 2006
Published: January 9th 2007
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We arrived in Vientiane, Laos' capital. This small, peaceful place was far from our expectation of a capital city. Its sparse population represented the country as a whole: Laos has six million inhabitants compared to the similar-sized Vietnam with around eighty-two million!
Laos is one of the least visited south-east Asian countries, having only recently opened its borders. This followed a tumultuous political history during which they claimed the ignominious honour of being the most bombed nation ever. Being the geographical crossroads of south east Asia, and a link in the spread of communism, Laos was being used as a pawn in the cold war, in the so called Laos 'secret war' of the 1960s and 70s. The secret air force known as the Ravens dropped, on average, one plane load of bombs every eight minutes for nine years, and many of the unexploded bombs remain in the landscape of the country today.

We spent our first day and night in Vientiane in excited anticipation for the arrival of our friend Alex. As we moved from cafe to restaurant to bar, we noticed the welcoming and friendly faces of the locals. They always seemed to have a smile and we were excited to be embarking on our tour of this much raved about country. The next day, Alex arrived and we spent the remainder of our time in Vientiane exchanging travellers' tales into the small hours.

Vang Vieng was our next destination. Not having realised that it was a public holiday, we expected to find a guesthouse easily. After realising that nearly all the rooms were full, we were lucky enough to find a room with three beds and an ensuite for a total of two pounds per night. Bargain!

Soon enough, we made our way to the main drag; an endless parade of restaurants and bars playing episodes of Friends, the Simpsons and Family Guy, each filled with lounging westerners sprawled on the cushioned platforms. We combined a delicious Indian meal wih a spot of football on TV and bumped into the couple we had met in Phnom Penh. What a coincidence! They recommended us a cool bar. Accessible via a rickety bamboo bridge onto an island, the Sunset Bar was to become our local during our time here. The bar consisted of a row of small hammock-furnished bamboo bays, alongside a campfire, overlooking the river. The place was wholly conducive to total chillout; playing great tunes and serving fantastic banana shakes.

The main attraction for visitors to Vang Vieng is 'Tubing'. For a small price, you can hire a giant truck inner-tube and be dropped off at the riverside in a tuk-tuk to begin your day of fun. We climbed onto our tubes and drifted along the river current under the hot sun. Intermittently, we paddled our way to one of the riverside bars to stop for a Beer-Lao and a go on the rope swing or flying fox. This was scary, but we were all brave enough to try each of them. The feeling of fearful anticipation while standing on the high platform was soon followed by a sheer rush of adrenaline as you let yourself fly through the air like a trapeze artist and plunge into the river below. Bob Marley pumped out all along the course, enhancing the feeling of joyful relaxation, as gentle rapids carried you along to marvel at the beautiful limestone scenery all around.

After many days relaxing on, or by, the river, and eating superb banana pancakes doused with chocolate and honey, we finally resigned ourselves to
What is he doing?What is he doing?What is he doing?

Answers on a postcard
the fact that we couldn't stay forever. The full moon party concluded our Vang Vieng experience. We departed for Luang Prabang - Laos' former capital.


Additional photos below
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Nana's antique travel game is coming in handy!Nana's antique travel game is coming in handy!
Nana's antique travel game is coming in handy!

David was pipped at the post by Alex thanks to this unusable 'Q'. Where's a 'U' when you need one?


12th February 2007

LAOS RAWKS!!!
What a trip... what a place... And I still have no idea what I was doing in that photo btw! It's a complete mystery.

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