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Published: December 22nd 2006
Guarani Grafitti
Due to Paraguay's isolationist approach to foreign relations in the past (an example ios doing such things as declaring war on Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay simultaneously!), in this country two official languages are spoken: Spanish and Guarani, an indigenous language. In Asuncion, most people speak Spanish but also know Guarani (as it is taught in schools). Outside the capital, the language of choice is often Guarani, and some people do not know Spanish at all. Paraguay is impressive in its indigenous population, with 17 distinct ethnic groups, and 5 different languages. ...than I gave it.
Looking back at what I wrote and the pictures I posted yesterday, I see that I---unintentionally---painted a very bleak picture of Paraguay. I didn't realize it yesterday but, really, I think it was just that a) I didn't have many pictures, due to the rain, and the ones I had negatively depict the country 2) the rainy day gave me the blues and c) I didn't have time to really say anything. Today, on the other hand, was a gorgeous day, with enormous puffy clouds against a blue sky, and now I'm sitting in the Asuncion bus terminal for the next 6 hours....so time is all I have!
Here we go, giving Paraguay the credit it's due!
My conclusion so far, before I start, is that I love Paraguay.
The people are one of the most endearing assets of this country. Though they still butt in lines and call out piropos on the street there is something far more demure about their attitude than what I've seen in Argentina, and you can add to that a cheerful, helpful, and friendly approach to anyone, even strangers like me. People here seem to love to
Aregua
Ceramics fair in Aregua, a sleepy town where strawberries are grown and people come for recreation and relaxtion on the banks of Lago Yparacai. strike up conversations (small talk) or offer unsolicited advice (looking out for each other) to whoever is nearby. I'll give you an example that combines both. Yesterday afternoon, while I was waiting to cross a street, a speeding city bus jetted through a puddle, splashing the sidewalk with that day's rain, grime, and trash, almost hitting me. The old man next to me, Ramon, as he later informed me, advised me to step further away from the curb (which I had already done by that point, but it's the thought that counts!). He proceeded to tell me a story about a time when he had the bad luck of getting the bus splash while wearing white pants! So he told me it's not a good idea to wear white pants. Thank you, Ramon. He continued talking to me, asking questins about where I am from and what I am doing, but I couldn't quite catch all of it, because Paraguayan Spanish takes more than 2 days' getting used to, if you're used to castellano porteno.
That's another thing about the people here: I think I have an advantage with them because I have the Spanish that I have. Although
San Bernardino
Set away from Asuncion in the hills, San Ber is now the getaway spot for escaping the heat. The town was founded by 5 German families in 1811. Here I am by Lago Yparacai, just across from Aregua. The town is one of those typical beach towns, with jet ski rentals, trendy pubs and restaurants...but when I was there, no one else was! Many people from Asuncion own houses there and hire a caretaker to live there year-round. it's difficult to catch their words sometimes, with the different cadence and accentuation, I usually get the drift, and I always can respond. I think they have treated me so nicely partly because I attempt (and have the ability to follow through) to communicate with them only in Spanish, and they understand me! It feels SO GOOD. Those of you who have been in Buenos Aires with me, you know I have a ummm complex regarding my Spanish. Well, it's nothing that Paraguay can't solve! I haven't had the chance to speak to too many people here but everyone has been lovely.
It's raining again!
Anyway. The Internet cafe guys kicked their friend off the machine yesterday just so I could use it. The bus ticket vendor gave me tourist info and taxi advice, with a smile. The pharmacy lady treated me like her little sister when giving me antiseptic cream for my big toe cut (which, by the way, along with the wasp sting, has improved miraculously!) and my lunch waitress at Lido (this ultra-popular downtown counter place where I joined all the businessmen for hearty food in minutes and banana licuados--and tried for the first time
Beauty in Simplicity
At the top of a hill in San Ber lies Parroquia de Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion, whose interior is decorated with nothing more than several tiny framed pictures, and whose exterior fits nicely with the wooded surroundings. The stations of the cross are displayed outside (but I couldn't find #14...Is there something I don't know?) 'sopa paraguaya,' which is not a soup at all but more like a cornbread) talked to me like I was an old friend. I haven't seen impatience here (except a little in traffic), nor anger...not to say they don't exist, but they aren't as prevalent as in some other Latin cultures, where hotheadedness is almost a virtue.
Alongside those positive qualities, I should mention a few things about the people that give this place a little twist...comical at times, and sometimes not so funny.
1. The men here like to pee wherever they find convenient. City plazas, on the side of a busy road in front of someone's house, even 20 feet away from a sign saying 'No Orinar.'
2. Poverty, like in most places, brings people to do things that naturally make me, and probably you, (and in some cases the people themselves) feel uncomfortable. Barefoot children sprinting across the plaza to ask you for a moneda are hoping for the same thing as the children who open the door for you when your car stops at the curb. Everyone is constantly selling things, most of which are the most useless things you can imagine, and
Basilica of Our Lady of Miracles, Caacupe
Every year on December 8, for the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, pilgrims flock to this church, by walking from Asuncion. Exhausted, they use the bathrooms and showers provided, then commence a celebration that includes fireworks and candlelit processions and bottle dancers (women who weave around with bottles on their heads!) Cristian, my guide, did the pilgrimmage once but said, 'Nunca mas!' because his legs hurt for three days after! they want YOU to buy. It's a very commercial country, from end to end, and I have been told that illegality underlies much of it...I can't count how many Mercedes and SUVs I've seen in this 'poor' country, or how many rip-off DVDs are being sold ont he street. It's the way things are, though, nothing to hide. Empenos are everywhere, so I asked what they were - they are basically pawn shops, I think. I was told you can go and check the price of your goods, but it seems you can sell, too. The only business I've seen more of than the empeno is the casa de cambio - for changing money. Going back to the issue of poverty, Asuncion has its share of homeless people, though not a conspicuous amount. Also present, though much less so than in Buenos Aires, are the cartoneros who search through garbage for their livelihood.
3. I have seen more machetes than ever before. In fact, I'm not sure if I have ever seen one in real life but today I saw about 8, all being used to chop down short grass in someone's front yard. It seems like a very
Abuela!
This is the kind of traffic we encountered several times on the country road! Cristian told me it is very common when you get stuck behind a slow car (in this case, a cart!) to yell 'Abuela' to the person (it means grandmother)...You know how those jokes go, they're worldwide, I guess. Side note-notice the SUV approaching. What a juxtaposition! SUV and ox-cart! inefficient way of tackling the chore. The population of cows in the Oriente region of Asuncion could probably help out. There were tons of cows! Some were walking across the road, stopping traffic, others were on leashes chained to their owners' front doors!
4. I don't know when work gets done in some of the shops and businesses here. Today we passed by a taller de motos (a motorcycle garage) where one guy squatted behind a moto, toying with its muffler or something, while 8 or 9 others leaned against the wall or kicked back in lawn chairs sipping terere (a cold version of mate). In general, there are a lot of people sitting around, taking mate/terere breaks, and chatting away on the job.
The cows and the taller de motos are making me think of the beautiful landscapes I passed through today, on a tour called Circuito de Oro, which goes through about 8-10 little towns in the Asuncion region. I wouldn't have had time to see them all on my own and, after seeing the first one, I realized that paying for and oprganizing the times for buses between all of them would not really be
worth it, as there is only about 10-20 minutes worth of things to do in some of these places. So, I opted for a tour but seeing as I am the only tourist in this city at this time (just about), it was me and Cristian, my shy but patient guide. We coasted through the countryside in his car, stopping at churches, lakeside resorts, and craft fairs. Paraguay is gorgeous, I mean incredibly so! It's as beautiful as most other countries I have seen, green and pastoral, complete with dusky sierras in the backdrop and palm trees framing the foreground of neat, well-kept farmhouses. Piles of red earth, anthills, dot the landscape, and creeks slip between lush sugar cane, maize, and tropical trees. I'll try to get some pictures up ASAP...
I think this blog entry is too long, so I'll finish up after just mentioning a couple of highlights of my time in Paraguay:
First and foremost, I got into the country without problems---even though it was almost too late when I asked the driver about migraciones, and there was barely enough time to push through to get my bag and hop off at aduana just past
Country Road
Cruising along roads like this made for a beautiful day... the Friendship Bridge. Phew. What else. I touched the water of Lago Ypacarai, which has that soft, tranquil feel to it that makes summer vacations seem endless (especially here, when the weather never really gets cold). I learned how to say an insult in Guarani, comparing a stupid person to a cow from the Chaco. I entered the church where thousands of people go each year on December 8th, the day of the Virgin Mary, in pilgrimmage. I ate mousse de mburucuya (passion fruit) and sopa paraguaya and manioca, all major parts of the local diet. I heard frogs croaking and a live band pouring out of a bar.
Tonight I'm jumping on an overnight bus to Encarnacion, the second-biggest city in Paraguay, to start an exploration of the Jesuit missions close to the Argentine border. It's really strange to see everyone here gathering to exchange gifts with coworkers, finishing up their last-minute shopping, cleaning and decorating,...and to know I am far away from everyone I know and love for the holidays! I don't even feel like it's holiday time, so I apologize that I have not been wishing everyone well. Happy Hannukah (a little late...), Merry Christmas, and
A Typical Small Town
From this jumble of signs, you see the busy commercial nature of Paraguay that I mentioned. The typical town has a stretch of this along the main road, and then less dense development off that main road. You see many people walking, balancing baskets on their heads, or leading cows, or carrying bundles of things like sugar cane. best wishes in 2007!
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inna
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molodets!
Have a safe journey. We are proud of you.