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Published: March 17th 2024
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Angles in the skyThe Metro station around the corner from the Portrait Museum, which unfortunately didn’t open until 11:30; however, time in a new city is rarely wasted. The streets were lined with huge buildings, which were stunning, some old and some new. Few people were around, possibly because it is the start of school today or possibly because the temperature was 97F.
After a few blocks, we saw the
Carnegie Washington Library . The elegant 1903 building with traditional long, wide stairs was situated in in Mount Vernon Square. We gladly went into the air-conditioned lobby, marvelling at the obvious Apple presence, assuming this was sponsorship. No! It was an Apple store!!
In the wings were closed research library rooms. The kind and cheerful guard told us about the current research organizations, and she agreed that we could go to the basement. There, the open area was lined with excellently curated photos tracing the history of the building. The building did not really serve the functions of a library, and it closed in 1972. Eventually, a historical society took it over but couldn’t make it work, given costs. After more years, Apple bought it, or something to that effect. There is another central
public library, nearby, but our interest waned.
We had a splendid early lunch at the
Riggs Hotel . The service at the elegant café gave us the feeling of being special. I had a salmon burger with home-made crisps (not quite crispy enough).
Now it was time to join our tour, several stops away on the Metro. Our personable and cheerful guide led us to the long Greek-revival complex that forms the House of Representatives, the Capitol and the Senate. Behind us was the Library of Congress and the Supreme Court. The heat outside of air-conditioned premises pressed on our sunhats.
Access to the House required rigorous security, including no liquids and no food. The guard relented when I pulled out my little box of peanuts. The guide gave me the magic phrase, “for low blood sugar”, which is true enough. Then she had to tell us that the cleaning of the House, supposedly finished, was not finished, and we could not see the chambers.
Outside in the searing heat of the unadorned plazas we posed in front of the famous dome and moved across to the Supreme Court. In the corridors, we admired the life-sized portraits
of past judges, many of whom we recognized through the news, such as Sandra Day O’Connor and Ruth Bader Ginsberg. To me, the women looked more contemplative and directed than most of the proudly contemplative men. May be my biased imagination. The court itself was closed, but our guide filled the tour gaps with informative commentary.
Best of all was the Library of Congress, massive and richly decorated with Italian and French style statues and murals. In 2007 I visited as part of a Library conference; my mind then had a jaundiced eye because in the same year I had seen original Italian frescoes and statues in Rome and Florence. Over time, my critique had mellowed, and I could appreciate the themes pointed out by our guide. Our time was limited to ten minutes in the central reading room, which I had not understood, yet was able to get photos that conveyed the experience.
On a lower level was the Jefferson library collection. Originally, he sold his collection to the state (he needed the funds) to start the library. Now, work was being done to re-create it to the extent possible. Books have been lost and some burnt.
Discrete ribbons, looking like bookmarks, indicated if the book had been replaced by the same edition or by a later edition. No bookmark meant the book was original. A book-shaped box with the relevant title means it had not yet been replaced. The glass-encased bookcases were secure and undoubtedly climate controlled.
As part of our tour, we were given tickets to continue touring unguided, but we were tired. We sought relief with cups of tea in the café. Out in the heat, we walked to the Metro, which was wonderfully cool inside. Nevertheless, when we arrived at the Friendship Heights station, we opted to start walking the two miles to Margaret’s home. Halfway there, her daughter fetched us in her car – not to my regret. We had a family supper of noodles and sausage pieces in tomato sauce, with the most tender, flavourful asparagus I have ever eaten. Glasses of Vinho Verde completed our day of seeing and learning.
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Isabel Gibson
non-member comment
I feel your heat-stroke-style pain. Touring in 97F temps is tough - but what are you going to do? You're there. I fell in love with your photo of the Metro Central Station, but couldn't find anything online that spoke to the street-level portion. Quite justifiably, everyone talked about the vaulted design of the underground bits.