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Published: June 28th 2023
This morning it was time to pack the car again and continue heading south. We have really enjoyed our stay in Sawtell. We stopped for a comfort break in Sawtell on our way through in 2019 and we were really taken with how pretty it looked and the village feel that it seemed to have. We have been saying since then that we would really like to spend a few days relaxing in Sawtell. Fortunately Sawtell has lived up to our expectations and we have not been disappointed with our time here.
Our first stop this morning was at Nambucca Heads where we drove up to the Captain Cook Lookout for the view of the Nambucca River entering the sea. Apple Maps told us that we were at the Captain Cook Lookout, but there was not a single sign at the lookout naming it as such. I couldn’t help but wonder if the lookout was never signposted or if the signposts have been removed to avoid the controversy that is all too often linked with Captain Cook these days??
From the lookout we drove down to Shelly Beach to use the facilities. Shelly Beach is situated to the north
of the Nambucca North Head. From the car park we took a short walk across the headland to Wellington Beach on the south side of Nambucca North Head. On the south side of the head we found the most incredible looking sedimentary rocks and a huge repository of driftwood. It would seem that the prevailing currents drive the driftwood onto Wellington Beach.
We made a final stop at Rotary Lookout (signposted!) before heading along the Numbucca River to Macksville where we rejoined the Pacific Highway. After a few Ks on the highway we took the turnoff to South West Rocks. The plan was to have lunch in South West Rocks, but the SatNav was programmed for Trial Bay Gaol which had us taking the turn off for Arakoon BEFORE we arrived in South West Rocks … and then we saw the signpost for the lighthouse!
So, we drove out to the Smoky Cape Lighthouse - and another Captain Cook Lookout – before lunch. We visited the Smoky Cape Lighthouse in 2019 and we did recognize the lighthouse when we arrived, but the road through the Hat Head National Park to the lighthouse did not seem at all familiar?
The Smoky Cape Lighthouse was built in 1891 and is one of the last designed by the Colonial architect, James Barnet. Unlike the lookout in Nambucca Heads the lookout here is signposted as Captain Cook Lookout. Smoky Cape headland was named as such by Captain Cook after he saw Aboriginal fires burning there in 1770.
We headed to the Trial Bay Kiosk thinking we could lunch there instead of driving back to South West Rocks. Hmmn, ‘kiosk’ suggested that we would be able to buy a simple meal, but the kiosk turned out to be much too posh for sandwiches! We would have eaten something more substantial there BUT with a booking for dinner tonight in Port Macquarie we were worried about spoiling our appetites. So, off to South West Rocks it was where we found a bakery and some freshly made salad rolls for lunch. A much better proposition.
After lunch we returned to the Trial Bay Gaol. Again we had been here in 2019, but we only looked at it from the outside. We decided, seeing as we were in the area, that it was worth a return visit to view the interior parts of the
ruin. The gaol opened in 1886, after 13 years of construction. Using granite to build, it had taken much longer than anticipated. Then the inmates commenced work on a breakwater to make Trial Bay a safe harbour between Sydney and Brisbane. Unfortunately, the scheme failed and the breakwater was abandoned and the gaol closed in 1903.
The gaol was reopened in 1915 as an internment camp for German prisoners and German residents who were declared ‘enemy aliens’ for the duration of WWI. Many of those interned were prominent businessmen and professionals. The internment camp was closed in 1918 and by 1922 most of its fittings were dismantled and sold and the gaol began to deteriorate. The ruins have been managed as a tourist attraction since 1946.
We continued down the coast to Crescent Head spotting a record number of kookaburras on the way. This afternoon we spotted 17 kookaburras! We were going to drive up onto the headland BUT we encountered a crane set up on the road which made it impassable. Bernie managed to execute a 78 point turn on the narrow road and we made our way back down into the town. Apple Maps wanted to
take us to Port Macquarie via Kempsey on the Pacific Highway, but we decided it would be much more interesting to go the back way on the Maria River Road.
After 20 or so kilometres of unmade road we found ourselves at the Hibbard Ferry where we had to pay $6.00 to cross the Hastings River so that we could finish our journey to Port Macquarie. Much more exciting that taking the highway! We stopped in at the Woolies to top up our supplies and then made our way to the apartment that we have booked for the next two nights. Very posh, with ocean views that we will be able to appreciate in the morning. Arriving just on dusk tonight, we haven’t seen much ocean so far from our window!
Bernie arranged a birthday dinner for me tonight at The Stunned Mullet which has held a Good Food Guide Chef’s Hat since 2013. Posh, eh? As an added bonus it is very conveniently located under the apartments that we are staying in. We enjoyed a delicious meal celebrating my birthday – crispy king prawns, seared scallops, Morton Bay Bug linguine, Japanese pepper gelato and chocolate tart.
Steps: 10,590 (6.97kms)
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Joy Woolston
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Birthday wishes
Belated birthday greetings Tracey. And many happy returns too. You are having a lovely trip to celebrate. It was my birthday with a “0” on Tuesday. Since then I have been embarrassed by my friends broadcasting my news on the tram, and today my aquapilates classmates sang happy birthday so the whole pool could hear. Enough now!