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September 25th 2021

Published: November 10th 2021

First sight after crossing below Popluqes. Still a ways away.

During my 2012 visit to Albania’s Cursed Mountains, imposing Maja Jezercë stood out in the distance viewed from the summit of Zla Kolata situated on the border with Montenegro and that country’s highest point. On this recent trip the Queen of the Accursed (2694 m ASL and the highest peak entirely within Albania as Mt Korab is higher but shared on the border with Macedonia) was definitely the number one hiking objective. Most people tackle this mountain from Valbonë with a shuttle from their guesthouse to the start of the hike at Rrogam, a tiny farming hamlet with a few places to stay. After getting dropped off at the end of the Valbonë valley’s pavement I started hiking down the 3 km gravel road (actually a dry, rocky river bed) in the hopes of finding a place to stay closer to Jezercë. In Rrogam 45 minutes later I stopped at the first farmhouse, Guesthouse Danjeli, and used my non-existent Albanian language skills to settle on €20/night for 2 nights including dinner and breakfast as well as a couple of shots of raki, cups of tea and Turkish coffee, with snacks consisting of homemade bread and feta cheese made from the couple’s small herd of sheep. The

"Fixed" Line Near the Summit

Would have been nice if a couple of the bolts had actually been attached to the rock.

first night was really cold and the hike to the summit was going to be long so I crashed very soon after a hearty dinner.

After an early breakfast I was pleasantly surprised that Kola’s wife gave me a packed lunch for the hike – more of the delicious bread and cheese and some veggies from their garden. The sky was clear, the air brisk and I set out just after 7:30 a.m. quickly reaching the junction after the Te Simoni tea shop and last water stop from their free-flowing spring. Untreated groundwater in the Balkans is pristine due to the region’s limestone’s natural filtering properties. The other fork at the junction heads up to the pass on the long way to Theth, a super popular trek that I’ll have to tackle on another trip. The sign at the ‘T’ said 4 hours to Jezercë which matched what Kola had told me (5 hours from Rrogam, ~1 hour to Te Simoni). The trail headed up the valley below Maja Popluqes while Jezercë remained out of sight. After a grueling stretch directly up a steep slope before crossing one of Popluqes’ long ridges, the trail continued on rock and tedious

Almost at the Top

Run the fairly narrow ridge straight up. Even though it was a little exposed it was far more enjoyable than the earlier uneven terrain, hard snow patches, and scree.

scree to another valley below Jezercë still surprisingly containing a few difficult to cross patches of hard snow made all the more nerve racking since I was foolishly wearing my running sneakers. The last hurdle was the intimidating fixed line near the summit, an aid to ascending a short stretch of easy 4^th class climbing.

Just shy of 5 hours after leaving Rrogam I tagged the summit where the views were incredible – across Valbonë to Kolata and even as far as Velika Rudoka and Đeravica, both in Kosovo. I briefly chatted with a couple of Polish climbers who had ascended from Vusanje, Montenegro which is an even longer trip. Since the return trip was going to take nearly as long as the ascent due to the rough “trail,” I opted to bolt after only ~15 minutes of summit time. It was still pretty hot, I was nearly out of water, and the trail in spots was more difficult on the descent. By the time I reached Te Simoni just before 4:00 p.m. I was totally parched and guzzled mass quantities of spring water. I rolled in to Rrogam at 4:40 p.m. which was exactly 4 hours after leaving

Maja Jezercë Summit

Polish climbers readying their long descent back to Montenegro.

the summit as Kola had predicted. Very demanding hike but totally worth it.

The guesthouse had a hot water shower, dinner was delicious, and I slept soundly after the thoroughly exhausting day. Even though the furgon from Valbonë (500L to the Koman ferry or Bajram Curri) was not leaving until 10:00 a.m. I departed after an early breakfast with another packed lunch in the hopes of hitching quicker to Bajram, the end of the road from the Valbonë valley and origin of transport to Tiranë. No luck but Bajram had a great WiFi enabled café at the bus staging area where a turbocharged espresso went for 60L. Overall, Jezercë was easily the best 2 days of the entire time in Europe.

US$ ≈ 105 Albanian lek (L) ≈ €0.86

Shkodër

Great entry point into Albania coming from Montenegro. Back in 2012 I stayed at the now super schwanky Rozafa Hotel which was inexpensive then as it was being remodeled. I don't remember any hostels in 2012 but now Shkodër is full of them and there is a thriving backpacker scene. I had only planned on staying a couple of days prior to Jezercë but a severe and unseasonable cold

Great Views Across Valbonë and to Kosovo

Twin summits of Kolata just on the other side of the valley. In the far distance on the horizon in Kosovo is Đeravica (left) and - on the Macedonian border - Velika Rudoka (center) that I tackled in 2018.

front blew through so I stayed 4 nights rather than freeze up in the Cursed Mountains. Passed the time visiting the Shkodër History Museum (cool, original Ottoman house, 200L entry) and the Site of Witness and Memory Museum (also 200L) which was a disturbingly detailed accounting of communist regime atrocities committed mostly against religious institutions and leaders. Most Albanians belong to one of 3 major religions - Orthodox, Catholicism, or Bektashi Islam.

Accommodation and food My preferred place, the popular Wanderers Hostel, was full so I checked in to Kultur Hostel across the street for ~€7/night (can pay in euros at good rates at most, if not all, of Albania's accommodation) in a nearly empty 6 person dorm including a small breakfast of cappuccino or espresso and a massive custard or chocolate filled croissant. There's a good kitchen for self-catering but there are so many good restaurants in town. The downstairs bar is usually pretty raucous with nightly live music but the loosely enforced "curfew" all across Albania meant that it closed at 11:00 p.m. which was a welcome relief as my room was directly above the bar. Took a lot of meals at Rozafa Seafood serving huge plates

Looking Back Along the Route from the Summit

Snow patches and tedious scree.

of seafood risotto and linguine for 550L and equally enormous Greek salads (comes with half a loaf of fresh bread) for 290L that together could easily serve 2 people (or in my case, leftovers for another meal). Also bake really good pizzas for 300L+. Closer to the hostel was Tropical, meze, or mixed plate with a bit of everything ran 300L, espresso 50L but cappuccino is not Western stye but a powdered coffee which was very no muy bueno. At a local place (i.e., not frequented by backpackers), a latte - if available - is actually a cappuccino. During my second visit to Tropical for the "cappuccino," I met a local who spoke excellent English and was curious if I were American. After I mentioned that I was from Seattle, he told me that he had met former Seattle US Congressional Representative Jim McDermott who had secured foreign aid so he could start a low nicotine tobacco farm. Small world but low nicotine tobacco? Isn't that like low alcohol beer? What's the point? Anyway, I also checked out the popular Temeli Restaurant but was not impressed. Located "downtown," restaurant Com&at served great all day breakfasts of omelets and qebabs for

Maja Popluqes

On the short hike from Valbonë to Rrogam.

only 160L but when I popped in they must've been the only place in Albania whose espresso machine was inoperable. Across from Tropical is Paticeri te Beqoja where the ubiquitous kifle, a.k.a., eclair, was only 50L.

Transport All hostels arranged transport to Valbonë via Lake Koman (2200L and hard to do much cheaper on your own) or Theth for ~600L and the furgon will pick up at the hostel. For Montenegro or Tiranë, buses and furgons leave from a staging area in the street at the Rozafa Hotel or a parking lot on the other side of the Democracy Monument's traffic circle.

Valbonë

Albania's premier hiking destination and absolutely overflowing with backpackers heading to or from Theth.

Accommodation and food There don't seem to be any places solely to eat or drink as the plethora of guesthouses (and one huge hotel at the end of the road) typically provide all meals for their guests.

Transport Only transport of consequence is the 10:00 a.m. furgon to Fierzë for 500L for the Lake Koman ferry back to Shkodër. Can also take the furgon to Bajram Curri for connections to Gjakovë in Kosovo or Tiranë (via Kosovo as the direct road

Shkodër History Museum

Original Ottoman house.

is dire but being repaired) but it is the same price. Next bus to Tiranë was 1000L, departed 12:00 p.m. and arrived 5:00 p.m. The border crossings in and out of Kosovo were minimal with no passport checks so I wondered how the Englishman who alighted in Gjakovë was going to manage. After crossing back to Albania at Kukës we stopped at a small cafeteria ~2:30 p.m., very necessary as I was famished after my 7:00 a.m. breakfast in Rrogam and we were still a ways from Tiranë. Sarme - meat-stuffed cabbage rolls - with bread ran 280L and was delicious.

Tiranë

I did not stop in Albania's capital in 2012 but I really enjoyed it this time. Like Shkodër, there is a thriving backpacker scene now. Not to be missed is the tips-based Tiranë Free Walking Tour with Gazi, one of the guides, lasts ~2 hours. I never did get the meaning behind the House of Leaves museum. Like the Witness Museum in Shkodër, it was an unflattering account of life under the communists this time focusing on the extensive domestic spying networks. It was an EU holiday when I visited so entry was free even though Albania is not

Prison Cells

Witness Museum, Shkodër

yet part of the EU.

Accommodation and food Scored a bed in a 4 person dorm at the immensely popular Mosaic Hostel. Reserving thru Booking.com was €1-2 cheaper than the walk in rate. Total for the 3 nights was ~€27 and included an amazing breakfast. Laundry was €5/600L. Took most of my meals at the nearby Mensa Ladi who had an extensive menu of local dishes - like patëllxhan (stuffed eggplant) and the Greek inspired pastiçio - but they only prepare 5 or 6 of the main dishes each day. Can check out what's on tap by peeking into the kitchen. Salads are always available, fshati is a "village" salad, like a Greek xoriatiki - country salad known worldwide as Greek salad. Figure 4-500L buys a very substantial meal.

Transport The temporary bus "station" is a parking lot far from the center while a new station is being constructed. When I arrived from Bajram I followed another passenger to the main road thinking they were headed to a bus stop on the other side of the traffic circle. They were not and it was impossible to cross the multi-lane, divided, and heavily trafficked road so I just kept

One of 175,000 Communist Inspired Minimalist Style Bunkers

Right in the center of Tiranë

walking. By the time I got to a place where I could cross, Google maps said I was only ~30 minutes from the hostel on foot. It took ~40 minutes for the return from the hostel since I knew where I was headed. There is a bus (30 or 40L) but the stop is not that close to the hostel. Leaving Tiranë I took a bus to Berat for 400L departing 2:00 p.m., arriving 3:50 p.m. Best to arrive 15-20 minutes before departure, otherwise buses and furgons could be full.

Berat

Berat definitely lived up to its reputation as a "must see" destination according to every piece of travel literature I'd ever seen. I stayed 2 nights but one would have been enough had it not been for the major thunderstorm one afternoon. There's a back door (hence, free) entrance to the castle up the hill from the bottom of Old Town.

Accommodation and food Reserved an en suite single for 2 nights at Hotel Villa 97 on booking.com for €21 total (paid 2550L). Very nice place with a shared kitchen; some rooms have a shared bathroom. Bar/restaurant Tori had a limited menu which was fine for me as I'm

Leftover Statues of Communist Icons, Tiranë

Lenin and Uncle Joe

happy with the basics: bean soup, rice, qofte, salad, and bread for 570L, 50L espresso doses too. For really good pizzas nearby Piceri Medine serves up margheritas and donër for 250/150L. Near the pizzeria is a small market with cheap pastries, kifle, and tiramisu.

Transport Bus station is 3 kms from the center, about a 40 minute walk to my guesthouse but there are frequent local buses for 30L. Many buses and furgons to Tiranë but there are only a couple per day to Gjirokaster continuing to Sarandë. The latter depart at 8:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. taking 3-3½ hours to Gjirokaster for 900L.

Gjirokaster

Cool city close to Greece. I stayed longer than necessary since the Greek ferry I wanted to take to Ikaria didn't depart Athens til October 8^th. In hindsight, should have pushed on to Sarandë for the first night which would have made the trip to Butrint much easier. The castle is OK for 400L, great views, thought there was a free backdoor entrance like in Berat but that tunnel ends at the main road up to the castle entrance.

Accommodation and food Scored another great deal on booking.com for 4 nights at Tourists Guest

Mother Teresa

Catholic Church, Tiranë

House in an en suite studio for €32 total (paid in lek but don't remember how much). Roland and his family lived net door in a house dating from Ottoman times and were very generous, offering raki and Turkish coffee upon arrival and checking in on me, dropping off fruit from their garden and grape vines. Their place is up a major hill from the bus station, close to Old Town. I prepped my own breakfasts but took all my meals in "new" town as I thought Old Town was overpriced. Restaurant Pajtimi served huge portions of local food and salads, ~500L for a great meal. Same street is S&P Restaurant serving much the same but smaller portions and cheaper. Another local place is Restaurant Tradita north of the bus station. Souvlaki Alfa serves quick meals and Antigonea (one shop downtown, one near the bus station) has an array of cheap pastries and ice cream.

Transport To Sarandë is 300L, takes 1½ hours, hard to determine how many times per day. Many services to Tiranë. Most importantly for me, there are 2 buses/day to Athens with Lengo Tours leaving at ~6:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. for €35 or 4300L.

Communist Propoganda Movies

House of Leaves, Tiranë

I took the night bus with the expectation it would arrive just before 5:00 a.m. (lose an hour crossing to Greece) but much to my shock and chagrin we arrived just after 3:00 a.m. in a sketchy part of Athens just south of Larissa station. Fortunately, I found a nearby 24 hour café where I could drink espresso and chillax til I thought it was safe enough to walk to the metro station so I could get to my hotel in Piraeus. The Albania-Greece border crossing took about 35 minutes on each side. There was a semi-serious baggage inspection on the Albanian side. I'm not sure what the point of that exercise was as I'm certain that the many 5 gallon jugs of clear liquid loaded in the bus baggage hold in Gjirokaster were definitely not water. There was no customs inspection on the Greek side but there was an inspection of the online entry form's QR code as well as a COVID rapid test. Not sure what the consequences of a positive test would have been, possibly an immediate 10 day quarantine in a hotel on the tab of the Greek government.

Day trip to Butrint I first

Berat Castle

Still surprisingly hot

tried to do this on a Sunday but the 8:00 a.m. furgon driver only had 2 passengers including me so he wasn't going to leave til 9:00 a.m. That would have made it difficult if not impossible to get back to Gjirokaster on the same day so I opted to come back Monday morning. That worked out fine and we left on schedule. It took way longer than I thought but the traffic around the Sarandë bus staging area was awful so the city bus from there to Butrint via Ksamil was running late. I'm not sure why that local bus was 100L and it could have been the tourist price as I was also quoted an inflated price for the return bus to Gjirokaster. The Butrint bus left at 9:30 a.m., stopping at the ruins an hour later. The entrance was a steep 1000L and it took just over an hour to cruise thru the small site. Caught a lift with a German tourist back to Sarandë as I had just missed the hourly bus. Found the Gjirokaster bus leaving at 2:00 p.m. after grabbing a 200L chicken donër. Not long after leaving town the bus was stopped by

Berat Castle Cistern

Was shocked and chagrined that I could get this close to the water. Staircase has been destroyed, presumably intentionally.

the police who checked every male passenger's ID. Unavoidably detained, we passed thru Gjirokaster at 3:45 p.m. where I and a few other passengers were dropped off while the bus continued to Tiranë. Overall, it was really long day for an hour at ruins that were really not that impressive aside from the amphitheater. It would have been fine to do it from Sarandë but I would not recommend doing it from Gjirokaster.

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