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Published: August 3rd 2021
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Our last trip overseas was in the Peloponnese in October 2019. It seemed fitting that our first trip away post-Covid should also be to Greece. I hardly believed we were going until we were actually on the way, flying to the Greek islands -- first stop Santorini, a place I never expected to see. It's a dream destination for many but is usually overrun with tourists. A visit now seemed like a once in a lifetime opportunity. Did we beat the crowds? Not exactly. We weren't alone, the Americans and French were already there but in numbers much less than usual.
Usually there are a few cruise ships anchored offshore. Sometimes three or four of them at the same time. That means about 10,000 people deposited on this small island all at once. Unbelievable! When you see the narrow streets and stairs connecting it all, you can't even imagine what it is usually like. It's also very popular with Chinese tour groups -- of course, there are no Chinese tourists there now either.
I had seen lots of photos, but I didn't expect it to be even more beautiful in real life. It is a honeymoon destination and there
were lots of happy couples, of all combinations, families, friends, smiling into the camera against gorgeous backgrounds. Even the most jaded (me?) will be enchanted by this most romantic of places. Love is in the air!
We spent the mornings walking in Oia, Fira or exploring the coast and interior before looking for lunch and spending a few hours on the beach. Santorini isn't known for its beaches. But on the other side of the island there are three long, black sand beaches with many tavernas and umbrellas lining the sea. We spent a few pleasant afternoons in Perissa under the trees. They are black sand beaches and the sand is very hot -- you can burn your feet without sandals.
We visited Red Rock Beach but only for a view of the beautiful red cliffs and blue water. Officially closed since 2013 and with many danger signs, the cliff face is crumbling and there is a big land slide at the beginning, the beach is narrow with black sand. The cliffs have been formed from a collapsed volcano cone. There were people ignoring the danger signs and picking their way down to the beach over the landslide.
Santorini has a few inland, traditional villages. We visited Pyrgos which used to be the capital. A well preserved traffic-free village, situated in the middle of the island with 360 degree views of the island from the top. Full of blue domed churches and bell towers, white washed houses and cobble stone alleys. Also a favorite spot for watching the sunset.
Another popular spot for watching the sunset was from Akrotiri lighthouse at the southern tip of the island. We weren't there for sunset and not at Pyrgos either. After spending the days visiting other places we headed back to Oia to see the sunset. Us and everybody else on the island it seemed.
We stayed in Oia for four nights at the first of our three airbnbs. It was situated really well for us -- at the top, which meant we didn't spend all of our time going up and down stairs. But you better be fit in Santorini no matter where you stay. It's the reason why you can eat all that fattening Greek food and not put on weight. A big part of Oia's charm is the little lanes and alleys, so there is
a lot of stair climbing. I went down twice at dawn to catch the morning light as the sun came up behind Oia. Sunrise was also a popular time with couples taking photos, often with a professional photographer.
In the evenings at about 7, a pleasant wind would spring up and it was a great time to watch the sunset colors from different spots along the cliffs and take photos of the cave houses in the mellow light. By the time we ate it was usually about 10 and we ate a lot of souvlaki and gyros with pitas and chips and tziziki, followed by an icecream. I usually don't eat much dairy and fried food so before long I wasn't feeling so well. For the rest of the trip I stuck with mostly chicken, fish and salad but for the first four nights I lived it up, eating much more than usual and it was all delicious.
There is a sort of ceremony every evening in Oia where people arrive from all over the island to see the sunset from the ruins of the Venetian castle and the cafes and terraces that face the sun. Many people
are really, really dressed up for the occasion, lots of floaty dresses. It is somehow a very special moment. There is a real feeling of excitement in the air and we could feel it too. On the terraces of the luxury cave houses that line the cliff face, people also watch the sunset from the "privacy" of their jacuzzi or pool.
We didn't have a jacuzzi or pool but we had a big balcony that was opposite a small hotel that was so close we were on nodding terms with the owner and his friends and guests hanging out together all day and night. If you stay in Oia or Fira the houses and hotels are all built one on top of each other and you shouldn't expect any privacy. We enjoyed the experience of our cute but tiny studio apartment but it wasn't the most comfortable place we have stayed! All would be forgiven if the bed was half-way comfortable but it wasn't, so we hoped we would do better at our next stop in Naxos but it was maybe even worse and we didn't get any relief till our third stop in Paros where we finally found
a comfortable bed.
After four amazing days in Santorini we took a ferry to our next destination, Naxos, where we stayed a week.
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D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley
Greek Isles
Beauty around every corner.