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Published: March 17th 2021
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Only a short time (one night) in Oamaru but such a lot to see in this small provincial town with a big history. Lyn was keen to see the blue penguin colony not far from the town itself. The viewing has become a commercial operation which benefits the penguins themselves so one has to buy tickets to a viewing area and be there by 8.15pm when the penguins might start to come back to shore after a long day out at sea foraging. We sat in a viewing stand and waited and waited and waited because the little birds don't work to a set timetable but finally our guide told us that a "raft" was approaching the shore (a raft is what the groups of penguins are called when they arrive back in a group on land). There they were . This raft had about 12 birds flopping onto the beach in the waves, unsteadily finding their feet and waddling slowly up the steep beach and steeper hill face to their nesting box area. They looked exhausted after 14 hours at sea. Quite a sight as more and more rafts emerged at varying intervals and all made their slow trek up
the slope to a night's rest. 79 penguins in all arrived in about 6 rafts over a period of around an hour. The commentary we got was well done. We learnt a lot about little blue penguins and came away with much admiration for the volunteers who had got this project off the ground and sustain it through their volunteer efforts.
Next day - Oamaru is known for its Victorian precinct of old Oamaru stone buildings which have been restored and turned into trendy and beautiful retail, hospitality and commercial premises. We parked up, having left our bnb, and wandered the area. I went into the Steampunk HQ; sort of mad inventor sculptures made from machinery mostly and often having an almost scifi theme often with a few wacky weapons added to the sculpture. Quite out there. Next door was the Oamaru car club's museum and I spent an interested 45 minutes in there wallowing in automobilia. Meanwhile Lyn was walking elsewhere; steampunk etc not really her thing - totally understandable.
From there we headed for Christchurch up SH1 but not before we stopped at Dot's Castle, a monument to one woman's dream, imagination, drive and access to
lots of dollars. It's about 15km out of town on the highway north and looks as if it's been transplanted from the countryside in England. A proper looking castle! It has a moat/lake in front, fields of green grass, a drawbridge, turrets, pretty much all you would expect to see in a castle. It's made of stone and looks like it will be there for centuries just as a castle should.
Before you get to the castle and take a tour, which we didn't, there are trendy shops selling stuff that nobody really needs but it all looks great, as it should at the prices being charged and a flash restaurant, River Kitchen, run by Dot's son, a Michelin starred chef. We had lunch there and it was very nice indeed. Well worth a look.
On to Christchurch. One of our bnb hosts reckoned the road from Timaru is the most boring road in NZ. Oamaru to Timaru is OK but it is quite straight and featureless after that apart from kilo after kilo of paddocks. Our Christchurch accommodation turned out to be a very new townhouse set in a complex of similar dwellings, close to the CBD
and to all points NSEW. I was a bit washed out so we stayed in and didn't do much apart from reading books.
14/3/21 Christchurch: A relaxed arising. We wanted to go to Lyttelton to sample the vibe and see what it's like since the earthquake. Lyn hasn't been to Christchurch since the the earth convulsed so it was an experience for her to see the damage wrought (still plain to see) and the efforts since to make good.
Lyttelton was alive with coffee culture people frequenting the many and individual cafes in the small central part of town. We joined them briefly before taking the road to Governors Bay round the perimeter of the volcanic crater that is Lyttelton Harbour. I have to confess I was wallowing a little in nostalgic memories of my youth when our family would take regular Christmas holiday trips on the overnight ferry (Maori, Hinemoa, Rangitira) to Christchurch to stay with grandparents. Memories of cruising up Lyttelton Harbour from the heads at 5.30 in the morning are very vivid.
The roads leading to and from Lyttelton are still being repaired from the 2011 earthquakes so Gebbies Pass and Dyers Pass had
stop/go traffic signals still emphasising the ongoing restoration of the area's infrastructure.
From there we headed for New Brighton another place Lyn had never been to. The nor'easterly was blowin' strong but it was warm and we walked out on the pier to the end and watched old surfers engaged in a competition. We knew they were old because they had been announced as that on the PA.
Then to Lyn's cousin Steve's place for a cuppa. Steve had moved down from Kapiti a couple of years ago and it was good to see him in his new abode.
Then to Chris and Miriam McKenzie's for another cuppa. Chris is the son of an old friend of ours and was one of our oldest son's best mates at primary school. We have kept in touch through his Mum over the years, went to his wedding and it was great to see him, Miriam and his children, Clementine and Matilda. By then we'd had enough cuppa's.
15/3/21 Akaroa: What a delight this was. We had come over to Akaroa when the 1974 Commonwealth Games were on. We'd brought Lyn's parents with us that day, It was stinking
hot then, quite beautiful and full of CG visitors . Today it was quiet, warm and still beautiful. Wandered the waterfront, gawped at the lovely French-themed buildings and wondered why everyone who wanted to build wasn't required to have a French theme to their design. However, the icing on the cake was our visit to The Giant's House which I wasn't breaking my neck to see but am so glad I went along with it. http://thegiantshouse.co.nz/
It's the work of Josie Martin, artist, visionary, creative par excellence. A feast of colour, imagination, creativity, determination. An absolute visual delight. 20 years of turning her garden into a mosaic celebration of colour, whimsy and artistic mayhem. Allied with her garden, which is planted to complement all the mosaic sculptures and structures, it is enchanting. You are strongly urged to make the journey over the winding, steep roads that lead to Akaroa to experience it.
And so back to Christchurch for a walk through the CBD where work to fill in the gaps left by the earthquake is ongoing but what has been done is attractive and thoughtful (speaking as a non-architect). The River Market is really well laid out and
the laneways are enticing. The Terraces, where many of the trendy bars etc are, is also well done. Having the Avon River to provide a central motif to build around no doubt helps .
The next day we packed up and left ourselves enough time to do the tram tour around the central part of the city. With commentary it was great to get a quick (50min) overview of what's been done since 2011 and what still needs to be done. We also made a visit to the new library. Absolutely stunning but as I said to Lyn, it's not as if you go in to a modern library to see rows and rows of books anymore. But a beautiful building with delicious spaces to relax and read or study in. And then, on to Kaikoura.
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Charles Bagnall
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Hello Robin - & Lyn whom I don't think I've met . .
Just came across your travel blog, Robin, and beginning to read it with joy . . . My wife, Radha, and I enjoyed the Steam pink collection a couple of years back . . . I was just "browsing", idly, when your blog appeared on the horizon. I am sort of filling in time, waiting to travel 10 min north to Waitarere where the "Great Forest Event" takes place today. I have entered tor run (jog, slowly) in the 10k event that, at 771/2, I have found tiring getting some fitness together but I am hoping I might finish in not too much of 70 min. Fairly wet hear today . . . Will go browsing now, Charles