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Published: March 14th 2021
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Stewart Island
Looking towards Bluff Hill We took the Southern Scenic Route drive to Invercargill from Manapouri. We're struck by how little traffic there is down here and how good the road surfaces are. A scarcity of bloody great heavy trucks might have something to do with the latter. South through Borland, Clifden, Tuatapere where we stopped for some lunch and had our best cheese roll to date as we attempt to become connoisseurs of the mighty roll. Then on through Riverton to Invercargill where we stopped only briefly before heading for our bnb on the road to Bluff. The bnb was spacious and comfortable; we dropped our bags and drove out to Bluff in the early evening. Desperate for fresh blue cod fish and chips. Yes! Perfect.
We only had one day left here and were keen to go to Stewart Island for the day on the morrow but weren't so keen when the forecast looked a bit iffy. We'd been warned that the one hour trip across to Rakiura could be a real test of one's stomachs in a fresh breeze so we were thinking of flagging it. Went to bed, woke, looked at the forecast and decided at the last minute to try
to get on. So, raced to Bluff and got the last couple of tickets on the Foveaux Express. The catamaran jumped around a bit but wasn't too bad as the swell, while quite big, was well spaced out and we both felt fine.
Stewart Island hove into view at Halfmoon Bay, the small town of Oban. Quite a bit smaller than we both had pictured. To get a seat on the sight-seeing 20 seater bus we had to scarper off the boat to the ticket office and got the last two seats. Our guide took us on a one hour leisurely trip around a few kilometres of the Island's few roads giving an entertaining and informative commentary on local history and events. Worth it we thought. One of our main objectives while there was to have Stewart Island blue cod and we managed to do that at the local (only) pub, the South Sea Hotel. Bloody great tasting, textured, fresh, flavourful fish! More perfect than the night before in Bluff.
The island is a world of its own. One feels like one is in another country. We both felt we'd like to come back to spend a few
Blue Cod Venue
Looking out to Half Moon Bay days here and do some of the many walks that criss-cross the land. Will have to go back.
The trip back was dead calm across the feared Foveaux Strait which we surprised to learn from the skipper, is only 10 to 15 metres deep. That would account for the fast developing short, steep pitched waves that make the crossing one for delicate stomachs like us to approach with caution and watch the forecast carefully. Not natural sailors.
Next day we packed up and drove to the Catlins area. First to Fortrose, then along to Slope Point, the southernmost point of the South Island and the obligatory photo evidence. Then Curio Bay, a rather unique part of NZ's coast with remnants of ancient coastal forests still extant. Curio Bay has been really well set up for visitors with a small audio visual display in rooms attached to the Cafe which presented a clear and entertaining overview of the geological and human history of the area. there were short walking tracks well signposted, penguin colonies, porpoise sightings (not by us), petrified forests, all with well maintained explanatory boards dotted along the way. We'd like to spend more time there.
Further east through Waikawa, Chaslands to our bnb spot of Papatowai. Our bnb reeked character and quirkiness. A small, self contained building presented with flair and an eye for the different. Outside our window Bellbirds (Korimako) were feeding on nectar put out by our host. Neither of us had ever seen Bellbirds up close but as I was unloading the car they were only two metres away ignoring me. Beautiful sounds and sights. We settled down for a comfortable night in memorable surroundings. Karen, our host, was as full of quirkiness and character as the digs.The only minor drawback was the outside bathroom, only a step outside but on a cold night with a bladder like mine........or like some of my friends whom I won't name.
Up and about early, ready to go to Owaka to have a look around and meet up with the Toole's, Lindsay and Diane, who were travelling in the opposite direction to us. Did so and shared travel stories along with a coffee. Then a short drive to the walk into Purakaunui Falls. There wasn't much of a flow over them at the time; they would have been spectacular after some rain but even
Bluff
End of the road so it was easy to see what a sight they would be with three shelves of rock cascading the flow down over lots of metres of fall.
We all ended up at our bnb briefly before they took off for their Whistling Frog accommodation up the road about 20 minutes. We were going to join them there later for dinner, which we did and had a nice time properly catching up. On the way we stopped at the Florence Hill lookout for a superb panoramic view of much of the Catlins coast.
Friday 12/3 Got away from Papatowai earlyish heading for Oamaru on SH1. Still in the Catlins, drove out to see Nugget Point and it's lighthouse. Stunning! And Kaka Point and beach. Fascinating history of the area and the usual always spectacular vistas along the coast. Through Balclutha, Dunedin (didn't stop), Palmerston (coffee), Moeraki - fresh fish and chips - and arrived at 30 Bluestone Drive in Oamaru, our bnb. A nicely set up place with a view down into a paddock belonging to the bnb with llamas, kune kune, peacocks, goats, cattle, ducks on show but separated from us by an electric fence.
Oamaru next
Catlins
Purakaunui Falls installment.
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