Granada and Ronda

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By local bus we travelled to Granada for a getaway of 3 days and two nights. Granada is overlooked by the magnificent Alhambra, a 12th century walled city built by the moors and occupied by the ruling sultans and their retinue until their conquest by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella in 1492..obviously a big year for Spain.

Like Toledo, it had distinct Moorish, Jewish and Christian sections. In addition, Granada had and still has a gypsy section Sacromonte, where homes and shops were dug into the hillside. We went to a flamenco performance in a 'theatre' in such a cave.

It has been suggested that we are vying for Spanish Tourists of the Year awards...good idea, but we have found that there is just so much to see and do close to Malaga that we don't want to miss it.



Just back from a 2 day, overnight visit to Ronda, this time by train. An ancient town built on a spectacular perch and bisected by a very deep gorge. Two real highlights...the Puente Nuevo, or New Bridge, built in the 1700s (!) ..it took over 40 years to build...traffic must have been a mess. The second is the Plaza de Toros, or Bullring, one of the oldest in Spain and certainly the most picturesque. One of the matadors I followed when I lived here in '69 is buried in the ring right where the bull emerges from the chute!

We spent the night at the Ronda Parador, one of the government run hotels in historic buildings around Spain. It is perched right on the edge of the gorge.

Next up, Sevilla and Cadiz.

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Photos

Alcazaba of the Alhambra
What a spectacular backdrop the Sierra Nevada provides for the fortress, built to protect the palaces of the Alhambra.

Alhambra
This walled city of the sultan dates from the 11th century. It has 4 magnificent original palaces and a couple of very ordinary additions that followed after the Moors were finally evicted in 1492.

Hotel entry
There are many more cobblestone alleys than paved streets in Granada. Our cabbie dropped us several alleys away and pointed in the general direction.

Casa 1800
A beautiful small hotel (12 rooms) built in the 15th century but fortunately updated. This common area in the centre originally housed the family's animals overnight. We had a great conversation here with a Norwegian couple who had just been to Australia and loved the Great Ocean Road.

Tea?
Many tiny little shops offering specialty items can be found all along the way.

Plaza de Abad
In the Albayzin, old Muslim neighbourhood where a farmers’ market has been held daily since the 14th century.

Summer palace with Sierra Nevada behind
The Generalife (hen er al Lee fe) was the summer palace of the sultans...in the same grounds but the building is airier and has many patios and water features.

Inner gate Alhambra
One of many interior gates in the Moorish style.

Granada lookover
From the Alcazaba or fortress of the Alhambra.
Hmmm, we seem to have the same blue and yellow tops again...

In the palaces of the Nazaris
Our 3 hour guided tour took us inside the 3 most significant palaces of the Nazari dynasty.
The detailed plaster work still contained traces of the original paint, from the 1200's! If you look closely you’ll see a cushion of lead separating sections of the pillar...put there by the original builder to cushion the effect of earthquakes!

Ceiling
This incredible carved cedar ceiling survived 800 years, numerous invasions, Napoleon's occupation and a period when gypsies literally lived in the palace (perhaps inspiring Jimmy Buffet’s song?) and burned what they could reach for warmth. Carved leather used to decorate the columns...all gone in cooking fires.

Finale. Patio of the lions.
The tour concluded with this, the private residence of the sultan and his harem...his 4 wives were housed in a separate palace..this 'patio' was stunning, all the more for having survived so many unappreciative invaders.
In the background is a strange attempt to copy the Roman Pantheon commissioned by a Spanish king who ran out of money, didn't finish it or live in it.

Lion fountain
the magnificent centrepiece of the sultans' palace patio.

tapas and a 'small' salad
we are getting better at ordering the right quantities and variety of food that we enjoy. Tapas is great because you can sample many different tastes.
From left to right: pate topped with smoked sardine, smoked tuna topped with roasted red pepper, smoked salmon topped with sheep cheese, jamon (like prosciutto) topped with avocado, grilled pork topped with tomato, and a slice of ham topped with grilled green pepper.
Yum Yum, Pig's Bum!

Granada cathedral
Another Spanish city, another cathedral...right?
This one Renaissance vintage, opulent and awesome as they all seem to be.

Flamenco!
Granada is renowned for the passion of its flamenco...we pushed ourselves to stay up for the 11pm show after a full day and were not disappointed.

Cave setting
This bar/restaurant is carved out of the hillside...quite a dramatic setting for the show.

Flamenco!!
What a passionate performance... we had front row seats, close enough to dodge the sweat! Wish I could show you a (brief!) video.

Ronda Punte Nuevo
That is “our” Parador perched on the cliff to the left of the bridge. Quite the dramatic setting!

Plaza de Toros
I must admit to an interest in bullfighting which began when I read Ernest Hemingway’s “Death in the Afternoon” in the 60’s. I won’t try to justify it except to say that to the Spanish it is is not a sport nor a spectacle, so I had to see it for myself. Ronda is the birthplace of the modern (after 1750) bullfight on foot, rather than on horseback.

Comments

[Lorraine Runstedler]

Touring Spain
I am taking the tour with you guys this morning as I sit here having a piece of toast on this very windy, dull, cold, blistery morning - thanks for taking me on your journey - amazing pics. as usual - you are both so ''worldy''spell check does not like my word - be safe you two - xo

[Stephen]

Exploring Andalucia
You guys are certainly hitting the high spots of Andalucia. The Alhambra in Granada and the bullfighting school in Ronda both A list visits.

[Garry Rasmussen]

G'day
A great experience ... spectacular place!