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Published: January 21st 2008
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And they´ve been doing it for how many years? We decided to take the tourist bus from Cusco to Puno, a bit longer and a bit more expensive but it meant we could stop off at some more sights along the way, have lunch and enjoy the live performance of a local panflute band. The route was extremely picturesque - we ascended in a valley alongside the Urubamba river with the snow capped Andes in the distance. (The Andes are gorgeous! - very different to the Himalayas as they consist of less dramatic peaks that spike up into the air, but it appears there is much more flat highlands where small communities live). First stop was Andahuaylillas (getting the bus through the narrow streets was an experience in itself) with a lovely jesuit church - looking further into the structure though it was interestingly pointed out that this church was built on an Inca temple and the foundations were still visible. The Spanish seemed to do this on a number of sites and used Inca symbolism ie, this church had a large golden sun above the Virgin Mary, which encouraged the Incas to convert.
The next stop was Raqchi, home to the ruins of the temple of Viracocha. From the
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Many homes painted along the roadside. remains it can be determined that this was once an enormous building with a central wall of 15 metres high and several colums that supported the largest known Inca roof. Lunch was a buffet of typical dishes with fish, chicken and beef accompanied by salads, rice and potatoes (it is interesting to know that potatoes and maize originated in South America). The band were good but why do they always insist on playing ´Guantanemera´and ´Heybloodyjude´ in amongst all the beautiful traditional music!!
A quick stop at the highest point called Abra la Raya pass at 4335m and then onto Pucara which had a small museum about the nearby pre-Inca site. It is also famous for the Torito ceramic bulls that are placed on their houses for luck, prosperity and fertility. We arrived in Puno in the early evening with a great view of Lake Titikaka. The evening was spent in a traditional restaurant with a live band playing, dancers around the room and a Cuy (Guinea pig) on Henry´s plate..not for long!
The next day we headed off to an island on Lake Titikaka named Amantani with early rain giving way to bright sunshine. The lake is approximately 3600
Abra La Raya
Highest point between Cuzco and Puno metres above sea level, but it felt strangely like being on the ocean. It is 165 km long and 60 km wide with the deepest part 300m. The name Titi means ´Puma´ in Quechua and Kaka ´grey´. (If one turned the map upside down...and you use a lot of imagination, you can see a puma) Once on the island we were introduced to our host family. They only spoke Quechua but were friendly. We were shown to our room that consisted of two beds, a table, a chair, candle and 4 matches. (Island generators only turned on for special occasions and that night wasnt one of them!). Also, the toilet...no, hole in the ground (longdrop) was a good 20 metres away in a metal enclosure in the field! We were cooked a meal (potatoes, rice, soup and Munti tea) afterwhich we went to the main square and met up with the rest of the group. The Quechua people on the island are still very traditional. There are 6 communities who once yearly all meet up at the highest point of the island. Here there are two holy places made out of stone, Pachamama and Pachatata (mother earth and father earth).
This was to happen the day after we were leaving and a pity not to see. We walked up to the sites and watched the sunset which felt like being on top of the world! The evening was marked by all dressing up in local outfits (supplied by the families) and dancing in the local hall. It was exhausting and thoroughly enjoyable!
The following morning we departed for Taquile island which was an hour away by boat. Surprisingly the lake was very rough that morning (estimated 6ft swell) and soon most of the group were hanging off the back of the boat (with a couple not making it in time!). Katy slept... Henry read... and we both had a laugh at the spanish in the group - we thought their forefathers were a seagoing lot! This island is also very tradtional and known for its weaving. We had lunch here and were taught about their customs. They appear very symbolic about their partnerships - hats worn by a man indicates whether he is an authority, single, married or looking. (note he cannot be an authority before he is married...) Woman have different sized pompoms on their shawls indicating whether
...and after
Henry eating Cuy they are single, married or in a bad mood!
The last islands were the floating islands of Uros. These people live on reeds that float and have to re-lay the reeds (at right angles) as the bottom layer rots away and sinks. Each island had approximately ten families on. Each year they have to move the island by boat to avoid drifting away. Any argument with the neighbour inevitably results in the same action. They are all pretty large people though due to the lack of exercise and eating the reeds all day long! Only 30% of the people want outsiders to visit but these islands are extremely commercial. On return, the boat would not start up. So for an hour the group sat and chatted in the sunshine as if nothing was up (typical European hey?!).
On return to Puno, our minibus was confronted in the main square by cables, banners and screens being put up. We later returned to a large group of people crowding the area for the start of the festival of the ´Virgen de la candelabra´ - one of the most important festivals of their year spanning about 2 weeks. It was absolutely
Restaurant in Puno
Traditional music and dancers amazing! Three hours of non stop music (from a 200 strong band of brass and drums) and dancing which we initially watched from a restaurant balcony and later joined in. There must have been about 1500 participants all dressed in exuberant costumes with fireworks going off everywhere (going off but not going out with sparks landing everywhere including on the church roof!). It was a fitting end for our last night in Peru.
We had a truly fantastic time in this diverse and picturesque country! Inevitably, we had to depart for the Bolivian border, and waved a fond farewell to Peru.
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Steph and Tony
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Guinea Pig!
Wow! News coming thick and fast! No cuy for you then Kate! We thought the costumes looked great - not sure about H's hat mind. The reed islands look fascinating -how do they stop the children from falling in the water? Look forward to the next instalment.