Chiclayo

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We arrived to Chiclayo, in northern Peru, the morning of January 5th to meet Miguel and Angela and to do some sightseeing. Our first day we signed up for a full day tour with one of the local tour companies. We were scheduled to visit two museums and one archaeological site between 11am and 6pm. The cost of the tour, for the four of us, was 140 Soles (about 11 USD per person). The tour rate included transportation for the day and an English speaking guide.

Our first stop was the National Museum of Sican. Sican was a pre-Incan culture group from northern Peru, what is now known as Lambayeque. The Sican culture existed between circa 700 and 1400 CE (common era or AD/after the birth of Christ). Members of the Sican culture worked as farmers, artisans, fisherman, and metal workers. The Sican Museum had on display a large collection of Sican pottery and metalwork.

Next we travelled to the archaeological zone of Tucume. Tucume was a regional center during the Sican culture and possibly through Incan times. The ancient culture groups of northern Peru built their structures from adobe bricks. What remains today appear to be no more than immense piles of dirt. It is truly impressive to consider the time, resources, effort, and expertise that has gone into the excavation and conservation of these ancient sites and their contents. Considering all that remains undone, or better to be done, is all the more incredible. Seeing this archaeological site, especially after having visited numerous sites throughout Central and North America certainly instills a deeper appreciation for the work required to research, protect and disseminate what is understood of these historical treasures.

Our final stop for the day was at the Sipan Royal Tombs Museum in Lambayeque. The focus of this museum was on the Mochica (also known as Moche) culture group of northern Peru. The Mochica flourished between circa 100 and 800 CE. The Mochica are now known for their painting, ceramics, irrigation systems, and monumental building. This and other museums charged around 8 Soles per person for entrance ( less than $3 USD).


The next day we rented a car for the day at a cost of 200 Soles (between $60 and $70 USD), which allowed us to travel to the archaeological zone of Sipan, back to Lambayeque to visit another museum there, and to the beach town of La Pimentel. Compared to the tour company the price was twice as much per person, but also twice as convenient; we could plan our day according to our own wants and needs rather than having to conform to those of 10 other people. Our driver for the day (and the next morning) was Rodolfo; he can be located outside of the Hotel Tombas Reales in Chiclayo.

Our first destination was the archaeological zone and museum of Huaca Rijada - Sipan. Sipan functioned as a Mochica administrative and religious center between circa 200 and 800 CE. The site is now famous for the ancient royal tombsof the Lords of Sipan unearthed there. The structures at Sipan, like those of Sican, are more or less pyramid sized mounds of dirt. There were a handful of area that were closed off to visitors and obviously under excavation. However the site also includes an area which displays how the tombs were left by the Mochica people and found by archaeologists in recent years.

Our return trip to Lambayeque was to visit the Bruning Museum. This museum houses a large collection of antiquities from the surrounding region and was based on the collections gathered by Enrique Bruning during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

While in Lambayeque we took some time to walk around the historic town center. There were many colonial era buildings to admire, one of which is known for having the largest porch in South America. This particular building and its porch were undergoing restoration at the time we visited. Just as a frame of reference, the porch was the length of one city block on one side alone.


Our last stop for the day was the beach town of La Pimentel, where we spent the following day. We walked along the beach, collected sea shells, and shared a seafood lunch. After lunch Chuck and Miguel decided to test their wits and fate with one of the local and traditional reed raft/kayak boats; they are called ‘caballitos de totora’ in Spanish, which are watercrafts used by local fishermen. Locals use the caballitos with definite ease. Chuck and Miguel wrestled with one for about an hour; most of which was spent either falling off of or climbing back on to their caballito. Well, Miguel only almost drowned one time and he and Chuck had a ton of fun fighting and flailing about in the water with their caballito. Angela, me, and all the other people on the beach had a great time watching it all occur.


We are now back in Lima. We travelled on Cruz del Sur, a local busline, and we opted for the VIP seats. The cost was 100 Soles (about $35 USD) and worth every penny! Better than any other bus, and actually any first class airline, either of us have ever been on. Large, comfortable, and reclining seat with a blanket and a pillow, a/c and light options overhead, movies and music, and a warm meal. The only drawback is that you are on a bus overnight. Then again, you save money by not needing a hotel and you travel comfortably while asleep.


As mentioned already, we are back in Lima for Angela and Miguel’s party tomorrow evening. We are meeting Marmie tonight around midnight. After Lima we will head south to Ica, Huacachina, Nazca, and Arequipa. For the moment, Chuck and are enjoying some downtime.

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