Cusco

---

As we settled down into our comfy leather seats we fully expected to get a great night's sleep (after our dinner was served). More fool us. Not only was the woman next to Warren snoring her head off fro about 10mins into the journey, but a small child decided to cry for nearly the entire time. As a point of interest (from what we have 'heard' so far') South American children do not cry I the same way kids do back home. Theirs is a monotone wail followed by a short, sharp intake of breath, then a repeat of the same - not the two tone cry we are used to. Needless to say, this grated somewhat after the first couple of hours and, just when there was a small pause in the noise (and we began to fall asleep) the little darling would start again. So much for the extra expense for a good night.

Consequently we arrived in Cusco rather worn but, despite it being 6am, we were surprisingly alert and looking forward to this famous new city. We waited for the sun to rise (no point wandering in a new own in the dark unnecessarily) the began the rather long ascent into the centre. It initially was not a bad walk, taking in a few monuments and side streets that were coming to life although this soon changed the closer we got to the 'historical centre'. The streets became cobbled and increasingly more sloped which normally would not have been a problem, but with backpacks and the effects of the altitude (3300m) it proved a little breathtaking! However, we pushed on and finally reached our hostel - Flying Dog Backpacker's.

With it being only about 7:30am we were a little early for check in so we left out packs in the store cupboard and strolled (with almost a spring in our step now we were much lighter and going downhill) towards the main square - the Plaza de Armas. It really was a beautiful walk through the narrow alleyways only just big enough to accommodate a car, past Inca style walls and antiquated looking structures. We entered the plaza and took a bench in the landscaped centre which enabled us to view the surrounding buildings and appreciate their grandeur. You are overlooked by the cathedral and a large church as well as parades of balconied shops with a walkway running underneath. Very charming.

We sat for a while before we were treated to some local entertainment in the form on 3 drunk lads. One was considerably more worse for wear than the others and was stumbling into people, including a passing policeman. Now, we have seen in Peru how seriously they take their role as 'protectors' (the frequent stops at check points established this view early on) so this was not the wisest move for the guy. He was promptly grabbed by the arm and bent over, being talked to sternly in Spanish - even the truncheon was brought out to emphasis how unamused the policeman was! The man's friend attempted to reason with the policeman and explain their friend's behaviour and eventually he let him go, but was only re-grabbed 2mins later when the 'unconventional' behaviour continued (rending of garments etc.), this time another policeman was brought to assist!

They must have overcome their difficulties as eventually the police left and instead the 'friends' came to talk to us, explaining they were university students (lawyers and electrical engineers!) who had been partying - their mate obviously still feeling the effects. Hastily we moved, not needing the attention at this time in the morning and went in search of food. Many places were still not open but we did notice a familiar logo almost hidden amongst the arches - McDonalds. Now, we would not normally have considered such a move for morning nourishment, but we were impressed at how well the building blended in with the surroundings - no gaudy big yellow 'M' or vast glass front: just a small entrance in the original structure. We entered and purchased a coffee and 2 small, sticky croissants each for a small fee and settled down to enjoy our illicit meal. It was yummy and much needed after the night we had experienced.

Fuelled by caffeine and sugar, we returned to the plaza to see groups of people - accompanied by a band of drummers - performing a choreographed dance. Strange, we thought, but nice to watch. As the morning progressed it was obvious that this initial spectacle was only the beginnings of a much larger affair for which much of the plaza was being cordoned off and (we had not realised until this point) the reason why all traffic had been banned from the square. Various performances of dances and enacted ceremonies were laid before us and the quickly gathering crowds, and it dawned on us that this must be part of the celebrations for 'Inti Raymi', the Incas' celebration of the winter solstice. Thousands of people visit the city each year from all over the country to take part in the festival, culminating in a re-enactment of the main ceremony at one of the neighbouring Inca ruins - and we had come right in the build up. It certainly was a great sight seeing so many people getting involved, including parts of the army!

Having watched (and listened to) about 3 hours of the festivities, we decided we were both tired and in need of some rest so headed back to the hostel, a 10min walk uphill. We checked in and collapsed gratefully into our beds after being pleasantly surprised by being presented with an en-suite room. Hostels and room rates in general in Cusco are the most expensive in the country and the room was costing us about £20 a night - one of the cheapest we could find - so being given a little extra for the same price was an unexpected bonus!

After a few hours rest we alighted to go for a small exploration of the city - shame about the rain showers! Dodging these we found a supermarket amongst the streets further away and stocked up on basics (pasta, noodles, bread...) and then visited the market. This was a smaller, slightly more grimy affair than in Arequipa and I have to admit to our disappointment, but we managed to get some onions and fruit - even if they did look rather worse for wear. The buildings outside the main squares are a little run down but do have a kind of rustic charm that we both loved. Cobbled streets certainly make walking a challenge at times but add to the ambience of the place when coupled with pretty plazas and manor houses.

Dinner and bed that night were eagerly greeted, and a hearty night's sleep was had by all! Hurrah! Breakfasted and showered, we returned to the centre to begin our official 'tourist' meanderings by firstly buying a 'Boleto Turistico' - a ticket that costs around £30 and permits entrance to a host of attractions, from museums to ruins. As we planned to spend a couple of day in Cusco and the surrounding area it seemed a wise investment.

We took in the historical museum set up in an old manor house and continued on to a couple of art museums. All were vaguely interesting but lacking in English translations and polish we had seen in other museums on our journey. The ruins of one of the main Inca constructions on the main avenue were almost non-existent (the Spanish destroyed nearly all original buildings in their occupation, creating their own in their place) with a monastery sitting on top of most of the site . However, the underground information centre was better than previous offerings of the day, giving a better insight into the lives and beliefs of the great civilisation.

Bypassing the main square on our way back, it was evident that celebrations were continuing today - and everyday up to the Thursday of the Inca festival - this time with 'peasants' giving a parade. Some great costumes were on display and some weathered faces - just like you see on all the postcards! We watched for a few minutes but left for a cup of tea and a piece of cake - something they do very well here :-) We returned to the main plaza that night to experience the place 'all lit up': very attractive. The French 'backpacker' though was not. Looking more like a hobo than a traveller (complete with scraggy dog) he approached us as we sat quietly on a bench, starting with the story of how he had been 'on the road' for 15 years and needed money for a place to stay as it was '****ing freezing' on the street. As it happened we had not not brought anything out with us so could not help him, so he moved on. Why do we seem to attract all the odd ones?!

Our last full day in Cusco had been designated 'ancient sites day'. On the outlying 8km or so are several sets of Inca ruins that can be visited by bus (or walked to) from the city and with entrance being helpfully included on the tourist ticket. Boarding a local bus to Pisac (a small town which we would visit later) we passed some lovely green hills on our ascent up the valley to the first site of Tambomachay where we jumped off the bus. This proved to be the remains of some habitation and baths - some of the waterways for which were still working (although with what aid from reconstruction is unclear). As with all tourist hubs, the way to the ruins was paved with locals selling their wares and, in one woman's case, vending photos with her and her baby llama! Very cute but a little much at a pound a pop!

Onwards to the remains of a possible traveller's refuge called Pukapukara perched on the top of a hill providing great views of the valley and a snow capped peak in the distance. The site was over-run by what I assume was a school party of boys who appeared to be practising for some performance(for the festival?) which was amusing to watch, but made navigating the site tricky at times.

The third site of Q'enko (like the coffee) was about a 5km walk back towards town which we embarked on eagerly and it was not only a sunny day but also downhill - always an aid to a good mood. It was a pleasant walk past agricultural land, a couple of small villages with mud-brick houses and woodland. The only taint was that the guidebook mentions that the route has experienced violent muggings and recommends going a a group and not at night. As the road carried very frequent buses and tour groups in minivans (as well as other walkers at times) we took precautions and were vigilant (attempting to avoid paranoia) - all was fine. The site itself was a religious one with a series of semi-tunnels carved through several large rocks and a supposed alter on top of the main rock. Not loads to see, but a good place to sit and eat our tangerines!

The final ruin of the day was Saqsaywaman and the main Inca site for Cusco. As Cusco was built in the shape of a puma (an important image for the Incas) the site forms the head and so was very important, as well as being positioned overlooking the city giving it a great vantage point. What is left of the structure (large in comparison to others in the immediate area) is only 20% of the original, but gives a good indication of the scale of the civilisation and their ability to use rock as a building material. Walls still remain (many the 'armadillo' style) and terraces plentiful - picturesque if nothing else. We strolled around the place and spent a bit of time at a look-out point over the city from which we could see more festivities taking place in the main square.

Having exhausted our thirst for ruins for the day, we descended towards the city not by road, but via an old (and in fairly good state of repair) Inca staircase that winds steeply down the hillside to the top end of town - and conveniently very near our hostel! Our bodies greedily accepted the cup of mata de coca (coca tea - very popular and good for acclimatisation) we made on our return and the soft seats that we relaxed into (nicer than stone walls). The next day we planned to move on to Ollantaytambo - a town in the Sacred Valley and on the way to Machu Picchu so we prepared for this for part of the afternoon before having a final wander round town.

---

Comments

[Dad P]

S.America
Thanks for the three latest blogs starting from Santiago and ending in Cusco. What a lovely setting and scenery, it looks almost very healthy to. You should have spent more time in S.America than trudging around the far east in smog, tropical sweat areas and tup-tups. It makes you wish "I should visit that place". Can't wait to hear about rest of your escapades around the Latin continent. xxxxxxx