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Published: April 27th 2010
Hola Chicos! Lo siento que haya pasado mucho tiempo desde mi última entrada!
I have just woken up after four long days of trekking and my calfs are the stiffest things ever! But the agony is totally worth it. "Where have you been?" I hear you all ask. Well, unfortuately it was not the Inca Trail! Some of you may have heard my disappointment for this already. If you didn´t i´ll quickly explain. I postponed my tour by three weeks because Machu Picchu was still shut but because I did this quite late it meant I was unable to get one of those sort after permits necessary for the Inca Trail. However, it was a blessing in disguise...I did the Lares Trek instead, which is not only easier but also allows you to interact with the local community. So I think it was a much better choice for me!
The day before our trek we left Cusco with our 6kg duffel bag and day pack and headed to the Sacred Valley for an insight into the Inca way of life. We also visited the Ccaccaccollo Community where we cuold purchase high quality natural textile products and see the methods used to create them. I bought a gorgeous scarf. I even managed to haggle down from 50 to 35 soles although the excitement is tainted as you feel like you are stealing from those who are much less fortunate.
Later we headed to Ollaytaytambo for an insight into the Inca way of life. The methods of building walls are phenomenal. Each stone is created so perfectly that there is no need for cement or anything. The patience the Incas must have had is awe inspiring. And the amount of knowledge they had about maintenance is phenomenal. Most walls were inclined to spread the weight to make it more stable and each stone was created so that it would lock nicely in place with another. And to think all these walls were made in the 15th Century soley with man power...it is unimaginable!! After an informative and tiring day we headed to a cute little hotel in Ollaytaytambo, which was such a relief after the freezing hotel we stayed in Cusco. Apparently the walls were original Inca Stone, which is why we all had to wear every single item of clothing we owned and have the radiator on high when we went to bed!
Our Lares Trek started with a two hour bus ride from Ollaytaytambo to Lares Town, where our trekking began (at 3,250m above sea level). We stopped off at a local market on the way, to collect supplies for the local communities we would meet on the way. I got a bag of bread (pan), 5 bananas (cinco platanos) and 5 tangerines (cinco mandarinas) which cost me 3 soles in total! WHAT A BARGAIN!? It is the equivalent of just under 75p. We arrived in Lares Town and I was probably the least prepared as I rocked up in my Adidas trainers and a walking stick...but you´ll be happy to know I managed to get through it with only a few dying muscles as a result!
We had a fantastic little group who kept each other going. Rosie was out tour leader...a local from Cusco with a fantastic sense of humour! She was obsessed with the way I say ´War-a´...ie. Water! Then Despi from Greece, Poneh from Toronto and Tim and Carmen from Angel, North London completed our family.
We headed off on the first day with high spirits and good weather! None of us had really planned for sun as we had been so worried about being so cold...but I did my very best to get as much skin exposed as possible! I did not want to miss out on a tanning opportunity!...this is where my Dad´s eagerness to buy me the latest high tech camping equipment made it´s first success! Both pairs of my trousers had zip off bottoms, so I had a nifty pair of shorts. Thanks Dad! =) I tried to squash as many of my extra layers in my day pack and wrapped my long sleeved top round my waist. I was glad I bought the vest top for extra warmth as it became quite handy in the sun!
One of the most amazing things about the trek was the food we recieved. We were all expecting to sit on a rock and have a cheese sandwich for lunch. But we had 5 star cuisine...the cook and porters set up a tent with a fully set table and each meal had at least 2 courses...it was amazing. The highlight being tea-time, which was between lunch and dinner. The excitement we all shared when we heard popping corn and we peaked over into the kitchen area where our anticipation was confirmed! Although I will not included a full menu here do not despair I took a photo of every course!
The second day was without a doubt the hardest...we completed 12km today and reached the highest point, Kauchayoc Pass 4,482m above sea level. The family vibe really kicked in here as the support from each other really kept us going. Well, the snack pack helped too! Some chocolate, a cheese sandwich and an apple lolly pop!!
We would arrive to camp around 5 where our tents were set up and a portaloo esque toilet was set up. We were treated like royalty...although I must admit I much prefered the selection of ´panoramic toilets´ I used during the day! The third and final day of our trek was another 12k although this time it was downhill which was a refreshing change and also allowed us to fit in a few topical debates including one about how we could overcome the lack of respect in British society! This day we started at 3,815m above sea level in Tranka Punku and arrived 1000m lower at 2,800m in Ollantaytambo where we were so grateful for our last lunch together. Especially as for two hours before that we were exposed to a lot of rainfall. Thank God Dad bought me that overpriced Poncho! =)
After a brief sleep in a hotel...about 5 hours to be exact we got up about 4am to have breakfast and get to the bus stop so we could be one of the first 400 at Machu Picchu! This is where it was extremely obvious that Tim, Carmen and I were British as about 50 people joined the queue in front of us as their tour leader was holding their space! By the time the 50th person arrived even our tour leaders were kicking up a fuss, so we decided we would stand in front of them and then usher the rest of our group to meet us! NOTE: 50 may be a little bit of an exaggeration...it may have been more like 12!!
Anywho, the early morning and the queue was so worth it...Machu Picchu is the most mystical and awe inspiring place I have ever been! The mist gradually began to clear to expose this amazing lost city! =) Although, Hiram Bingham supposedly ´discovered´ Machu Picchu in 1911 many people knew of its existence since it was built in the 15th Century. We made one final trek up to the Sungate to get an aerial view of this wonderful place. Here we got a great sense of achievement although I still felt like I was in The Truman Show or something as though I was placed in the magical place which wasn´t actually real! A-MAZE-ING...an experience I will never forget and a number of friends I will keep in touch with!
Much love to you all.xx
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A place of its own.
Your Lares Trek really sounds interesting as if I have been transported to another world and having a 2 course meal to boot. Not like the beach trips on holiday, always gritty snacks.