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Published: January 6th 2016
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We woke up at 4:45, sluggish in the cold and dark. From the other tents belonging to the guided treks came the call for a group breakfast of tea and eggs. Voices grumbled. We packed as fast as we could with numb fingers in the dark, and were the first ones to begin hiking.
The passage was surreal. Ahead and behind were mountains of dark rock, unsoftened by great age or erosion, covered...
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