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We booked the Inca trail back in January and have been looking forward to it (both with excitement and dread) ever since, so were glad when it finally came around... here is a summary of events and pain endured!
Day 1 = 12km
We were picked up from our hostel at 5.30am by the bus containing the rest of our group. About 30 minutes into the journey the radiator blew on our bus so we were stood at the side of the road for 30 minutes or so watching the porters pour freezing cold water into it, creating more and more smoke (and making it worse). Eventually they realised the bus was dead so our group split into two and we managed to hitch a lift with some other groups heading to the trail. After an eventful start we made it to a village called Ollantaytanbo were we had breakfast and bought our walking poles (apparently they can save you from needing replacement knees). Then we were taken to km 82 which is the start of the trek.
After going through a passport control checkpoint (you actually get a stamp!), The group made a steady start uphill. The
start was quite easy, but got progressively harder and we had to walk up a couple of really long, steep inclines to make it to lunch (and the first day is meant to be the easiest!). We had a nice spot for lunch - which was served in a tent that the porters had raced on ahead to put up before we arrived. After lunch, the trail was up and down all afternoon finishing with a killer climb up to the campsite at Wayllabamba where we arrived at 5pm.
All in all not a bad start seeing as we even had enough energy left to chill with a beer before dinner and an early night!
Day 2 = 12 km (first pass 4,200m)
The 2nd day is known to be the hardest day of the trek and it had not got off to the best of starts as Lou had been ill throughout the night with a poorly stomach so hadn´t had much sleep and didn´t have breakfast because she couldn´t keep anything in!
we were Woken up by Max (assistant guide) with a cup of tea at 5.45am for breakfast and to quickly pack up camp.
We eventually set off at 7am after doing the porter intro - there were 21 in total and they carried everything you can think of from tents to big gas cannisters. each must have been carrying about twice their body weight and they still ran up and down the mountains with sandals on.. superhuman!
The day started with uphill walking for 1 1/2 hours until we stopped for a short break. We then walked up steps for a further 2 hours before stopping for a brief snack break to regain some energy. From then it took a further 2 killer hours for us to make it to the top of Dead Woman´s Pass that stands at 4,200m - the highest point of the trek. it was a bit of a struggle with Lou mot having eaten and surviving on Gatorade (similar to Lucozade) and Neil´s altitude sickness returning, but we made it to the top and we weren´t even last in the group!
After stopping at the top for another group photo and to admire the spectacular views, we headed downhill. Now you may think this part sounds easy, but after walking all that way uphill (5hrs
total!) and with very little energy it is very difficult and hard on your knees as it was steps pretty much 90% of the way down!.
We finaly arrived at camp Pacamayo at 3pm where we had some well deserved lunch (although Lou still couldn´t eat). After that we chilled for the rest of the afternoon, playing cards in the tent with some of the others in the group, relieved that the worst part that everyone had been dreading was now over. We had another early night after a very long and tiring day in order to get a good nights sleep for day 3 which is the longest day - and includes more climbs...
Day 3 = 15km (second pass 4,000m and third pass 3,700m)
The third day started with a 5.30am wake up call and tea served at the tent again.
After a good breakfast (including Pancakes!) we headed off uphill yet again to the ruins of Runkuracay (circular ruins overlooking the Pacamayo valley). After that we climbed up another 1 1/2 hours to reach the top of the second pass (Abra De Runkuracay) and laced a stone that we had collected from the previous
ruins there over a coca leaf which is supposed to bring good luck (I think everyone wished for no more hills to climb!). We then walked downhill for about 1 hour to reach the Sayacmarca ruins and then continued on to another scenic lunch spot.. By this point we were well and truly in the midst of a v.cloudy cloud forest so you could barely see anything either side of you. After lunch it started to rain, but we carried on uphill to the third pass to see the Phuyupatamarca ruins. After that everyone broke off and walked at their own pace along the scenic 2 1/2 hour trip downhill to camp for our last night at a place called Winay Wayna.
We arrived in the late afternoon and grabbed a beer from the bar (yes there was a proper bar there!). That evening we had a special last supper that even included a cake that David the chef had baked that afternoon - the meals he made were amazing throughout the trek, all 2 or 3 courses and quality you would expect in a restaurant, not in the middle of the Andes - he even made special bits
for lou with no egg... None of us knew how he managed it in the middle of nowhere. After dinner we went back to the bar for more drinks before retiring to our tents early again to get a good nights sleep for the v.early start the next morning.
Day 4 = 5km
The last day was an even earlier start - 3.30an wake up call! and after a quick breakfast we marched down to the campsite gate and were the first group there (we had decided the night before as a group we wanted to try and walk up Huayna Picchu which is the mountain you see in the background of all the machu picchu photos. For that you need one of the 400 limited daily tickets so we would have to be very quick down to Machu Picchu in order to get them). We sat there in the cold for about 1 1/2 hours before the gate finally opened at 5.30am. We then raced at what can only be described as army pace towards the Sun Gate, which we made in 40 minutes (very quick apparently). The last 5 minutes were a nightmare and a number of
Another postcard view
yet more stairs climbed to get this shot!the group (including us) struggled to keep up the pace on a very steep flight of stairs they call the ´gringo killer´steps, but we all made it and what a spectacular view it was when we got there - it made all of the pain from the previous 3 days and that morning worthwhile! We were also very lucky as the sky was relatively clear so we got a really clear view of Machu Picchu- a lot of mornings it´s really cloudy so you can´t actually see anything until later so we were lucky! we were also the first group there so avoided the crowds.
We took some photos at the top, regained our breath and then continued the race down for the golden tickets - we got down to the ruins at 7am, but unfortuately this was still too late as the tourists who had got the lazy bus up had been and grabbed them all (they should really hold some back for the trekkers as it is virtually impossible for you to get them once the peak season has started as the bus gets there much earlier than those that have walked for 4 days, but nevermind).
our guide Juan gave a tour of the ruins and then we spent time walking around them on our own with lots of rest inbetween (I don´t actually think we could have made Huayna Picchu at that point anyway as were all abosultely shattered and had no energy left whatsoever - and there were still lots of stairs to climb to explore the ruins!).
After looking around we met up with the group in Aguas Calientas (the nearest town) for our last lunch together and then all went on to the hot springs above the town to soak our aching muscles.
We then got a pitch black train and bus back to Cusco still feeling very achy and tired and went straight to bed after having a well earnt McDonalds!
All in all a fantastic 4 days which was great fun despite all the hill climbing!
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Tim
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Wow - top work
Looks amazing, glad the altitude sickness subsided and you made it. Well done to the two of you -looking forward to hearing more about it. Enjoy the rest of it Cheers Tim