Caminar Inka a Machu Picchu

---

The Inka Trail - 9th to the 12th of March, 2009.

We woke early on Monday morning as we were meant to be leaving at 6.20am for the Inka Trail. Richard quickly discovered his camera had been stolen, probably while he was asleep in bed (with it) the day before. And then, our tour company was over an hour late. Fiona and Caroline were really scared that they had ripped us off, so eventually I found their number and rang them. They said they'd be there in ten minutes. I was less than impressed when they arrived, especially since they didn't feel the need to apologise for being over an hour late. I would have enjoyed an extra hour in bed!

We boarded a bus and drove for an hour and a half to km 82 where the hike begins, making stops along the way to pick up our tents (freshly washed from the river) and some coca leaves. There were 14 in our group, the four of us, a Canadian and the rest of the group were from various South American countries. We were also accompanied by our guides, Alex and Jose Luis and lots of porters, who I will forever be in awe of!

We walked for four or five hours, taking a break in between to have lunch which was really nice. Car, Fiona and I had braved carrying our bags, sleeping bags and roll mats, unlike some of the other girls in the group. Oh yes, we really are that strong! By the time we got to our camp site, the porters had already set up our tents and made us tea and popcorn. I was falling in love with them. And our tents looked out on a beautiful view of the mountains, with a river running beneath us.

Even on the first day, I could already see such differences between the Inka Trail and the Santa Cruz trek that Richard and I had done a couple of weeks beforehand. Firstly, there was a clear trek on the Inca Trail. Secondly, there were toilets at various intervels. And there was actual electricity in the shed where our dinner table was set up. On top of this, there were so many people. We had probably seen less than 14 people (the same number as our Inca group) in the three days on the Santa Cruz trek, now we were seeing people everywhere! And I found the Inca Trail much easier, I could breath, walk and actually knew what was going on around me! I'm really happy I did the Santa Cruz trek, it felt more authentic and more like an adventure compared to the Inca Trail. Plus, the scenery was more spectacular, though seeing Machu Picchu was amazing!

We always knew Tuesday was going to be the hardest day. In fact, Tuesday was the reason Fiona and I had been so scared of the Inca Trail. We hiked up a steep mountain, over Dead Woman's Pass which is about 4,200 metres high. It was a difficult day, especially for Caroline who had terrible altitude sickness. She was vomiting and had a terrible headache and even altitude sickness pills weren't helping.

Richard had decided that he was now running the Inca Trail so he arrived at the camp site long before us. The porters continued to look after us really well - our tents were set up, they had some snacks for us and were in the process of making dinner. It's amazing to think they can do the trail so fast, carrying 25kg on their backs.

We were in a large campsite on Tuesday night which also had lovely views but we all went to bed soon after dinner. Eight hours of exercise is never easy!

Thankfully, the third day was easier and really interesting. We were up at 5:30am and started the last ascend to the second pass (3850 metres) by 7am. We visited the Inca ruins of Runkuracay and some lagoons. Richard was continuing to run and Fiona decided to join him for the downhill bit, while Caroline and I walked together. When I arrived at the meeting point, Richard had made himself a tent of sorts to shelter from the rain and was having a nice nap! We had to climb another 50 steep steps to another Inka ruin, built because a giant rock had the outline of a human which they interpreted as a sign to build a temple. We continued on to the lunch site and were now walking on the actual road the Incas built. The road goes through cloud forest, jungle and even a tunnel! After lunch we continued on the Inca Trail, reaching another Inca ruin with agricultural terraces and an observation tower. For the last three hours of walking, Caroline, Fiona and I had a lovely girly chat all the way down to the final camp at Winay-Wayna. We had decided to pass out some Argentinians so we were ahead of most of the group, and there was a hairy moment where we weren't too sure where we were going!

We made it to the campsite and discovered Richard had been there for an hour, even though he went the long way! But we were still among the first to reach it and we were delighted with ourselves. In fact, I think Fiona and I were ecstatic. We had some beers and a hot shower to celebrate and sat looking out over the Andes at the unbelievable view. I don't think I've ever enjoyed a beer as much! After a lovely dinner, we thanked and tipped the porters and our guides and headed to bed.

We were woken at 4am on the final morning to make our way to the control which opened at 5:30. It was raining and really misty so we couldn't didn't see the sunrise but after a few hours trekking, we reached the sun gate. And as we stood there, the mist gradually cleared and we caught our first glimpse of the Inca city of Machu Picchu, the mountains of Machu Picchu and Wayna Picchu, the valley below and the other mountains that surrounded us. We descended down to the city, stopping to take some classic pictures of Machu Picchu.

The tourist trains had yet to arrive, so the city was ours for a few hours. Alex gave us English speakers a tour of the most important areas of Machu Picchu, exlaining more about Inca Culture. No one knows why Macchu Pichu was built but it does have excellent view of the southern constellation, worshiped by the Incas. The city, itself, really is amazing. When you see the sheer work that must have went into the site, you can't help but be overwhelmed. Some of the buildings, including the Temple of the Sun, are build from sheer rock which fit into each other perfectly, no mortar here!

After our tour, Fiona, Richard and the Canadian decided to hike up Wayna Picchu, while Caroline and I wandered around the site. We all met up in Aguas Calliente, where our lunch never arrived. I really was hungry and fainted again. Opps.

We took the train back to our starting point, and a taxi from there back to Loki. After well needed hot showers, Richard announced he was heading back to Lima the next day and that he already had the flight but hadn't told me. I was less than happy.

After some food, we went to bed and Richard left early the next day. The three of us girls spent the day wandering and eating and then had a well deserved night out, accompanied by a lawyer from Lima.

Our last day in Cusco was spent looking at art and doing our jobs, before getting another night bus to Puno.

---