Llamas and big stones

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We arrived in Cusco 6 days ago and have really been enjoying the change of culture and climate. It is quite definitely tourist central here, but the beauty of the Inca stonework and the picturesque plazas and cobbled streets make it all worthwhile.

Evidence of Quechua culture is everywhere. The colourfulness of the local dress and fabulous weavings adds real vibrancy to the place. Every few steps you are accosted by handicraft sellers - most of their products beautifully produced. Less welcome are the touts offering tours and trips, and the notoriously lightfingered shoe shine boys. But Graham has got very dusty boots crying out for a polish so you can´t blame them for trying.

The guide books aren´t joking about the need to acclimatise here. At approx. 3000 metres above sea level, the lack of oxygen hits you as soon you step off the plane. Feeling dizzy and breathless, we spent our first afternoon crashed out in our hotel room. Early attempts to explore the town, particularly the steep slopes of San Blas - an arty area to the north of the main square - had to be balanced with lots of sitting in cafes and sipping coca tea. Not sure if it makes much difference to the symptoms, but the locals swear by it. Rather tasty.

There are lots of European and American ex-pats here running hundreds of bars, restaurants and hotels catering for tourists with all kinds of tastes and budgets. Apart from indulging in a few full english breakfasts and the best cinnamon french toast this side of NYC, we have tried some local cuisine. I am a big fan of alpaca steak, particularly when served with a fine quinoa risotto. Delicious. Graham is building up to trying guinea pig. Childhood pet memories still too strong for me on that front.

So far we have spent most of our time visiting museums and the many Inca ruins around Cusco. We decided to start out on horseback - a lovely way to cross the mountainous countryside between the sites of note. We visited ruined forts, temples and baths. The trip ended at Sacsayhuaman - a significant site just outside Cusco where Inti Raymi (festival of the sun) is held at the solstice in June. Apparently Cusco was originally planned in the shape of a Puma and Sacsayhuaman forms the head.

On Sunday, we took a tour of the sacred valley incorporating several handicraft markets (Graham has yet to find an alpaca hat to suit) and impressive ruins at Pisac and Ollantaytambo. The mountain views were spectacular, putting us in an optimistic mood for our 5 day mountain trek starting tomorrow and culminating in Machu Picchu.

We ended the day at the remote and very high village of Chinchero where we viewed a colonial church, but more interestingly sampled a street vendor´s corn on the cob the like of which we´ve never seen in Europe. Individual kernels the size of your thumb and a bean-like texture. Served in maize leaves with a chunk of cheese. Superb. Graham also purchased some meat on sticks topped with boiled potato. It was delicious, but we´re not sure what it was. Maybe fillet of small furry rodent after all.

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