Cuzco: honk and maintain current speed!

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April 9th 2005

Published: April 9th 2005

Welcome all to our next instalment. Before I start I feel that I need to address some comments I have recieved from my previous blog re: drug use.

In Peru, coca leaves are everywhere you look. When you have a meal, you get coca tea. Every shop sells the leaves as they are meant to have medicinal value, especially for dealing with high altitudes. They are given to kids as afternoon tea. Put into lasagnes as a seasoning.

Turns out that the coca leaves, if properly processed, can be used to make cocaine too, which is why these leaves are illegal out of Peru. However, the raw product has no narcotic effect. So to those of you who are convinced that we are now hardened drug users... relax...

Thought Í'd clear that up just in case you were all worrying. We're not going to come back with a coke habit. Got that kids? Say NO to drugs.

OK, on to the blog...

So we finally left Arequipa after going through all 1000 of our condor photos. It was with some trepidation that we boarded the Cruz Del Sur bus that would take us to Cuzco. The trip was 8 hours overnight on a "luxury" bus, but somehow we had lost faith in most Peruvian marketing.

But we were wrong to lose our faith. The bus was amazing. Greyhound could learn a thing or two. Seats that recline almost 45 degrees, in-transit TV, bingo, food brought to you, plus of course more of that coca tea. Heavenly!!

Until the bus starts traveling into the wee hours of the night. We were trying to sleep with all our luggage wrapped around our feet ('coz you can't trust your baggage up in the racks of course) and all I can remember is waking up every time our blessed bus driver decided to take a corner at twice the recommended speed, and trying to stop all our bags sliding across into the aisle. At one exciting moment, I awoke to a thud, as a neighbouring passenger's 3L water bottle fell from the roof racks onto the floor, narrowly missing my cranium. Exciting times. That and Catherine's panic attacks about the heat. The driver had his own compartment, and I'm sure his air conditioning was great, but for the rest of us, we had to combine high altitude (ie: low oxygen) with lots of carbon dioxide plus no ac, which lead to very difficult breathing.

So after a hot, breathless, sweaty night (I know this sounds more exciting than it should!!) we finally arrived in Cuzco. Now Cuzco is an interesting town. It used to be the capital city of the Incas, who ruled Peru for about 400 years from 1200AD, but in the 1400s, managed to conquer almost all of South America. Until the Spanish rocked up, gave them smallpox, and then proceeded to wipe out the remnants with gunpowder. The Spanish made Lima their capital in 15something and from then on Cuzco faded into nothingness. So we were looking forward to seeing some historical buildings from the colonial times, as well as the older Incan ruins, with the highlight being Machu Picchu.

Well, modern Cuzco is quite different to what we thought. It is an extremely georgeous city. The streets are all cobblestones, and the cleanest I have ever seen (even cleaner than Singapore!!). Beautiful colonial churches, an amazing plaza worth a billion pictures all on its own, remnants of the Incan walls that used to run through the place... and about 500 thousand touts trying to encourage you to enter their restaurant/taxi/tour group/shop. Or sell you a postcard, painting, alpaca jumper, finger puppets, water bottle holder, etc etc.

Cuzco city is pretty much sold out to tourism. It manages to retain its charms however, and I think we could have easily spent another week there just hanging out watching everyday people do everyday life!!

Another interesting thing about Cuzco - the taxi to normal car ratio is about 10000 to 1. I kid you not. We sat down at a restaurant and counted how many taxis would turn the corner before we would see a regular car. The highest we reached was 52!! All these little Daewoo Liats driving like insane people, desperately racing for hapless tourists.

Having sat in several of these taxis, I think I should comment on driving patterns in Peru. They operate by very different rules to us. As I've alluded to in previous blogs, these drivers have nerves of steel. Or they are completely oblivious to everything around them. I'm not sure which. To help you understand better, I've put a list together that contrasts Australian and Peruvian driving habits.

Scenario 1.
you are driving at 60kmh towards a crowded intersection with lots of cars crossing your path in both directions.
Australia: slow down, follow give way rules, and when the road is clear take off.
Peru: honk your horn and maintain current speed.

Scenario 2.
you are coming up to a red light.
Australia: slow down, come to a stop. Wait for the light to be green.
Peru: honk your horn and maintain current speed.

Scenario 3.
your lane is merging into the neighbouring one.
Australia: indicate, slow down, wait for an appropriate gap, and merge gracefully.
Peru: honk your horn and maintain current speed. Create your own lane if necessary.

I probably don't need to go on, you get the idea. An interesting point: it appears that road rage does not exist in Peru! Yet is definitely a problem in Australia. I figure that road rage occurs as a result of people feeling that their expectations for common courtesy and decency have been violated. So in Australia, when that jerk cuts into your lane, or refuses to allow you to merge into your lane, or simply overtakes you in a much better car than yours, you feel like you have been violated and take appropriate action with your horn (or nearest available weapon). In Peru, on the other hand, there are NO expectations. Hence, no feelings of violation!! So when somebody cuts in front of you (without indicating, the cad!), that's ok, just honk your horn, and maintain current speed !!

I feel like I am on to something here. Road rage is a major problem in Australia. I am on the verge of composing a letter to Bob Carr (the premier of our state) with some suggestions such as:

1. Remove all traffic lights, speed limits, and police presence from the streets.
2. Do not fine anybody for contravening any of the traffic laws.
3. Remove all restrictions applying to drunken drivers, teenage drivers, etc

Once anarchy starts to reign in the street, people will eventually give up on expecting the best of each other. Road rage will be avoided. Stress levels will go down. Peace and harmony will ensue and families will be brought closer together. And we will all just honk and maintain current speed.

OK, that's all I have to say about Cuzco. We haven't managed to upload our pics, but will eventually update this blog with pics, and will let you all know so that you can view some of the Cuzco goodness!!

Next we're off to Machu Picchu, the ancient Incan city, so stay tuned...

Cuzco: honk and maintain current speed!

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