Southern Peru-- jungles and ruins

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Executive Summary (4/2 - 4/12): In Cusco we learned the Inca Trail was booked up for a month, so we spent 4 days in a jungle retreat near Puerto Moldonada where we enjoyed exotic birds and local shamanic traditions. We spent 2 days exploring Machu Picchu, amazed that it lives up to the hype. Cusco is not only bellybutton of the Incan world, but Gringo central. I survived the constant hassles and witnessed some of the typically South American pre-Easter excitement.

Heading to the Jungle
Although many travellers advised us not to pre-arrange the Inca Trail trek, when we tried to sign up for a trip once we arrived in Cusco we learned that the trail was booked up for a month! Recently, and wisely, the government has imposed limits to how many people can use the Incan trail. Along with a total ban on the trail in the month of February, this is meant to help protect this over-used tourist trail. The limit is 500 people per day, which really means about 150 tourists since there's about 3 support people (porters, cooks, guides) for every paying client. Even though this 4 day approach to the high Incan ruins at Machu Picchu seems the stuff of legends, we weren't too upset-- 500 per day sounds a bit chaotic for a profound and tranquil comtemplation of the ancients. We also learned that a landslide on the trail very near the entrance to Machu Picchu required hikers to descend to the valley and take the bus up with the 'regular' hoardes, thus missing the best day of hiking and the grand entrance to the ruins from the trail above. And with that door closed, another window opened for a chance to visit the teeming jungle near Puerto Moldanado.

There are two main jungle options from Cusco-- the cadillac version going to Manu Biosphere Reserve (either very costly and/or a very long and bumpy bus ride), or the apparently more accessible version to Tambopata National Reserve. We chose the latter since we could simply fly into Puerto Maldonado and take a boat a few hours upriver to the Explorer's Inn, a self-contained jungle exploring complex and perfect for a quick 4 day jaunt. Compared to the $1000-plus trips to Manu, this cost $110 for the flight and $175 for the transport, accomodation and touring associated with the Explorer's Inn.

Birds and Butterflies
The jungle around Manu and Tambopata Reserves gets touted as the most biodiverse place on earth. The Tambopata is home to around 500 bird species and over 1200 butterflies, so we learned. We were most excited to find birds, and didn't mind the 4:30am wake up call for our full-day trek into the jungle on Day 2. We donned our rubber boots, grabbed our water, cameras, binoculars, and rain gear, and slathered ourselves with sunscreen and bug juice. Not the most comforatable hiking, with the humidity and effort of slopping around in the mud making our skin a sticky melange of sweat, sunscreen, and deet; but the trail was gorgeous and our guides knowledgeable and interesting. We learned about walking trees (using a 3 foot high teepee of roots to shift toward more sun maybe one foot per year), phallic clay cicada mounds on the ground, bark to suck on to treat malaria, telephone trees whose large flat trunk sections could be pounded on for making noise, and hundreds of other jungle trivia soon to be forgotten. We saw 4 different types of monkeys, about a guhzillion butterflies (the most visible indication of the variety of animal life), and an evil-looking, huge black scorpion. Our day's destination was a lake which was home to pirahna and one of the area's biggest draws-- the giant otter. We especially wanted to see the otters, since they are rare, and somewhat of a totem animal for Sarah. They are quite endangered and rare, and very sensitive to human activity. Up to 6' long and about 60 pounds, they are at the top of the food chain and live in family units of about 6-10 animals. We didn't see the animals from the blind at the lake's edge, but soon got in canoes to paddle around quietly on the lake. Eventually, Sarah spotted the family group swimming back to their home after their morning round-the-lake hunt. Though we weren't close, it was exciting to see the beautiful, sleek creatures gliding and diving along the lake surface.

And we were a bit nutty about the birds, spotting about 35 or so different species. We saw the Ahninga (which swam across the lake with only its neck and head showing.. I thought it was a snake!), the prehistoric-looking Huatsoc which was nesting with babies on the lake's edge, the tiger heron, various parrots and macaws, toucans and toucanettes, rufous mot mot (great name!), white-chinned jacamar, and white-fronted nunbird. And some we just heard, like the screaming piha, aka 'gentleman's bird' with a loud call exactly like the iconic construction worker's whistle at a sexy woman. We visited one of the area's clay licks early on the 3rd day, where hundreds of parrots and macaws show up to eat the clay in order to digest important minerals. OK, I can sense I'm losing you, so end of bird rant. In the evening we went 'caiman hunting', using the boat and high-powered light to spot the glowing eyes of the small alligators along the river's edge. Coming back we spotted a tarantula in a tree, as big as my head (or so I thought), ready to spring down on one of us (or so I imagined). I would soon understand better the power of imagination, as I would take advantage of the Inn's optional experience with a local Shaman...

Dr Ruth, get OUT of my vision quest!
We heard about an extracurricular activity that hadn't been included in the official brochure when the guide at lunch told us to eat up, that those interested in trying the Ayahuasca later in the evening wouldn't be eating dinner since one of the side effects was being sick to the stomach. Ooh, sounds interesting! Ayahuasca, or Amazonian Spirit Vine, is a tea made from a vine found in the jungle, and used by shamans throughout the Amazon "to enable access to the visionary or mythological world that provides revelation, healing, and ontological security" (www.ayahuasca.com). There was a traveling 'doctor' from Argentina who sat with those crazy enough to try it, to give us an overview of the, oh heck, substance. He was a cherubic, quick-to-chuckle man who was traveling around studying various forms of indigenous healing rituals which used ayahuasca. He didn't get too specific, but said that many people have very active day dreams (hallucinations), that we might find an animal to help guide us to insights (for example, a big snake is a powerful "guide"), that we might feel queasy and get sick, and might feel trepidation and unease, for which it would be good to remind ourselves where we were and all would be fine. We would always know who and where we were. He also went on and on about how wonderful a medicine this was, that most people have a great experience and that it can be an important healing activity. "You gonna LOVE yourself in da mornin!!". Most of us were quite concerned about possible vomiting, and he said this was the medicine's way of getting impurities out of our bodies. I, always practical, asked 1) how long will the effects last, and 2) is this substance legal in the USA. I wasn't too reassured with his vague answers of 1) it varies, and 2) they can't touch this stuff because they know how powerful and helpful it can be. About one-third of us decided to try it (around 10), so while the rest ate dinner, we met in one of the cabanas with the good doctor, a local shaman who would lead the ritual, and a few of the staff.

We sat around on mats on the floor, looked nervously into candles, and grasped our personal "sickness bags" they had handed out. The doctor interpreted the shaman's introduction, and reminded us that the tea would taste bitter and it would be best to just slug it down quickly. The shaman went around to each of us, filled a mug about half-full with a brown liquid from a 2 liter coke bottle, and watched passively as we slurped it down. Then we sat back, eyes closed, waiting in silence for God knew what.

OK, so here's an overview of my experience. It was not too overwhelming, and it seemed mostly to encourage "enhanced day dreaming" that I might have been apt to in any case with all the titillating expectation. But there was certainly an effect, as after about 20 minutes of quiet sitting and a bit of gurgling stomach I started feeling a physical sensation that I was bouncing rhythmically up and down, like on a swing on bungie cords. I was glad it wasn't making me feel ill. My mind was racing a bit, but I was almost too aware of others in the room, as I wanted to follow my own thoughts but kept coming back to where I was when the others moved, rustled their sickness bags nervously. A couple people vomited, and there was one loud exclamation when someone thought they had felt a spider on their hand. I saw swirling images, some abstract and colorful, and at some point thought about the good doctor and how he reminded me of Dr. Ruth. And then there was Dr. Ruth, with her crinkled, wise face, eyes squinting because of her constant chuckle. I was a bit dismayed when I realized she was going to be my vision quest guide! Her message, I'll say, wasn't text.. she just hung around as my thoughts flew around, a symbol to accept things and remember humor. Could have been the buddha, but it was Dr. Ruth. A distillation of some of the thinking included: I can't get too hung up on my weaknesses, they are also my strengths because they make me who I am as an unique individual.. my weaknesses are my strengths!; acceptance is all-important... not in the sense of being passive, but being tolerant of perceived inadequacies in myself and others, and general tolerance for all the human diversity. Another guide, perhaps more pure, more promising, hovered in the background in the shape of a Vicuna, the wild, smaller cousin of the llama. With his shimmering golden fur he was trying to get me to follow him, but I was too distracted. During the middle of the 2 hours we were there, the shaman smoked from a pipe, and gently hummed and sang a repeating verse that I found beautiful, compelling, and comforting.

I learned later that most of the group had very little experience with even enhanced day dreaming, and thought it was a bit of a sham. The traveling doctor seemed a bit disdainful of the local shaman, saying he had diluted the ayahuasca. I was glad for that.. no telling who else might have popped into my vision quest. A staff member I talked with related an enjoyable experience, and had a lot of respect for the shaman. The staff member had been thinking about finding a romantic partner, and was amazed afterward when the shaman specifically asked if he had any insights about his search for a romantic partner. Hmmmmm.

#1 Tourist draw in Peru...Machu Picchu
There are many ways to visit what is probably the premier tourist attraction in Peru. We bought a package that included an upscale train ride, guide, entrance, and overnight in nearby village of Agua Calientes (around $180). The ride along a roaring river to Agua Calientes had great views up and around, with the help of the curved ceiling windows. We negotiated the crush of tourists at the station and found our guide, Darwin, who had an endearing way of beginning every new paragraph with "Dear Friends...". When we finally made it to the first view of the ruins, I was astounded. The ruins are well excavated, with neat lawns between the intact walls and narrow, steep, terraced fields. The surrounding steep ravines, jungly cliffs and moutains are an integral aspect of the experience, adding mystery and beauty along with a provacative urge to imagine what it must have been like to have lived there. Along with most things Incan, I was most impressed with the stone work-- the giant, perfectly fitting stones still flush and in good shape after so many years. I was also struck by how short-lived the Incan experience was, with Machu Picchu being no exception. They had the bad luck to finally get their empire together right before the Spanish came, so Machu Picchu was still being built, had only been there a century or so before it was abandoned, not to be found until 1911 when a Yale University archeologist stumbled upon it. It certainly lived up to the hype, and we enjoyed 2 days of exploring the ruins.

On the second day, we climbed up the nearby towering mountain, Huayna Picchu. It was a sunny day with awesome views down to the main ruins and the surrounding mountains. I don't know how many accidents occur in a year, but there are some STEEP steps coming down from the top, Incan stairs built for small feet and not kept in the best (i.e., even) shape. I had been chuckling at the poor tourists crawling down as I had looked from a distance, but when I got there I crawled as well, as close to freezing as I get on trails with height-induced trauma.

Cusco, the belly button.
No kidding, the translation is "navel".. of the Incan world. Sarah and I were sad to separate again as she headed back to Portland, and I stayed a few more days in Cusco. I found a great hostal away from the guidebook hordes: a private room with a view to the churches and main square below for $3/ night (Casa Arco Iris). Nearby I had tasty and filling set lunches $1 in a cute cafe. I discovered the opposite bookend of this inexpensive side of the city, happening upon a 5 star hotel that looked like a Spanish mansion and a convent, where you would spend $475 for a double. I couldn't even afford the $19 for the breakfast buffet! The main square was always a "busy" experience... really the belly button of the gringo world, locals seem to exist to approach every tourist with tour offers or menus or begging or shoeshines, etc. With tons of things to see, my favorites included: the huge painting of the last supper in the Cathedral, with Jesus getting ready to dig in to the typical Andean specialty of grilled guinea pig, and with a portrait of Pisarro for the figure of Judas; the remaining Incan walls forming the foundation of many buildings on the narrow, ancient streets; the Temple of the Sun, with exhibits showing the religious and civic organization of the Incans, with exquisite stone work temples still in perfect shape; cheap $5 meals in the fancy restaurants with terrace seats overlooking the plaza; the colonial architecture, particularly the fancy facade of the Jesuit Compania de Jesus, on the plaza.

It was the week before Easter, and I happily stumbled on extravagant rituals two days in row. On Monday, there was a huge hubbub in the square late morning, and I finally saw the most famous "black Jesus" being carried around the square, with police, dignitaries, priests, and the faithful following it around or lining up the square for a reverent look. The crucifix is dark because of smoke from centuries of candles, and is famous as El Senor de los Temblores, known around Peru as guardian against earthquakes. As it was carried around the plaza, groups would throw handful of red flower petals on the crucifix. In the evening, the plaza was completely packed with local families, and I wasn't sure what they were doing there. But I finally figured out they were quietly talking and waiting for the crucifix to come in from the side streets to be paraded back to the cathedral. They were waiting in the cold, not entertained by speeches or music or fireworks, and the only "occurrence" was when the fire engines and police cars turned on their sirens for a few minutes when the crucifix entered the cathedral, there to stay for another 365 days.

On Tuesday, the square was filled with bands and crazy costumes and choreographed group dancing as different troupes performed along the parade route around the plaza. Watching from above at a restaurant terrace, it was just like Carnivale, with crazy costumes and joyous dancing. In between the shopping and touring, I spent hours trying to finalize my next travels, typically made difficult by the inability to reserve tickets on buses and the craziness of traveling during Easter week. I was heading to Lima by plane, then on to the Cordillera Blanca, trekking capital of Peru!

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