Grant Kloefkorn and a Series of Unfortunate Events

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May 27th 2008

Published: May 27th 2008

Ahh, what a road it's been for my poor travel companion Grant. Day 1 in Lima he started losing stuff and ever since then it's been all downhill. He got pretty disgustingly ill (it really was gross) not long after that, which went on strong for about 5 days. That was in Arequipa in what he dubbed "Arequipan Hell". We were so excited to leave Arequipa and head to Cuzco and our luck was looking up when we boarded our bus. Leather seats that reclined almost into bed position (semi-cama) and onboard food and service for half the price of the leading bus company. The company name is CIAL, a name we wouldn't soon forget. Grant and I even gayly high-fived as we were leaving......

2:00 am: I wake up tired and cold. I look around and see the bus is stopped on the side of the road, which seems odd. But I'm in such a daze I pass in and out of sleep for about 3 hours.
5:00 an: It is so damn cold and I realize the bus has broken down near Puno - the highest and coldest point between Arequipa and Cuzco. Grant and I shift uneasily trying to warm up, Grant even subtly attempts to burrow his head into my shoulder. I don't resist.
7:00 am: the bus jolts to a start and we head into town to switch busses. Turns out we were five minutes from a bus station the whole time. Why didn't the other bus come to us? The question lingers in my head for a bit, but I'm just happy we're moving. We switch buses and they carriers change luggage from bus to bus (IMPORTANT)

The rest of the ride continues rather uneventfully with some pretty impressive mountainside views until we arrive in Cuzco. We de-board the bus and go to get our luggage. I find my bag easily but there's no sign of Grants. No problem, it must just be in another compartment - Grant looks tense. We find out there's no other compartments. Shit, his passport was in there.

Besides throwing his water bottle kind of violently I'd say Grant took the news pretty well. The driver frenetically made some phone calls to the two bus stations we were in and tells us to come back later to find out more. We check into The Point hostel, where we find my cousin still asleep from his Toga Party outing the night before. We rest up a bit and go back only to be greeted by locked doors. Pissed off and dejected we go back to the point. I won't go into details but it really is out of control there...I read a review that said it's like sleeping in a night club and nothing could be closer to the truth. It's fun though, definitely a good time.

So the next day we visit CIAL offices again in the morning where they inform us there's no sign of the bag. Grant, once again, violently throws his water bottle (coincidence...?) and what follows is a demonstration of Peruvian inefficiency. Grant fills out forms for the company, we go to the generally unhelpful tourist police where we fill out more forms and an investigation is undertaken, we go to and from the CIAL office like 4 times, having to get new forms and things from the tourist police and various banks each time. We visit tourist centers that are supposedly going to help Grant collect all the money for his bag. CIAL pretends to be cooperative but is not and after all the jumping through hoops and round about efforts of ours, there's some bogus 'hearing' where we'll find out what the company is going to pay. Grant, however has to fly back to Lima to get a new passport, so I'll be representing on his behalf (Awesome - in theory at least).

What a shame too, because Cuzco is the best. Easily the most beautiful city we've been to, its great to walk through and a great place to go out and theres a lot of fun to be had. I would have probably angrily ranted about how I lost my $400 in travelers cheques and was without money for a bit and considering a return flight as well, but it seems pretty diminutive in contrast with Grants problems. I ended up cancelling them and getting a refund anyways - sweet.

Chris and I are right now planning a 4 day, 3 night mountain bike trek to Machu Picchu which should be pretty bombass and I'll continue to enjoy my time in Cuzco. As for Grant, he flies into Lima tomorrow to get his new passport and then go home. I bid him farewell and even though he hates this country with an intense, burning passion, deep down I think he really enjoyed the trip (I'm lying). So this post I dedicate to Grant. Goodbye my friend.
Bravo Out.

Grant Kloefkorn and a Series of Unfortunate Events

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