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Published: March 9th 2008
Machu Picchu
Expectations exceededTurned left back into the mountains at 12,000ft+, Tommy was struggling and so were we. The local llama and alpaca population didn´t seem so bothered. If you substituted llamas for sheep you could be fooled into thinking that you were in Scotland or the Yorkshire Dales, they were everywhere. Our stopover for the night was a little place called Chalhuanca. We were the only gringos in town and it just so happened that it was fiesta time. Nobody could explain what it was in aid of but it involved dancing around a tree all night in the pouring rain, taking turns to weald an axe at the trunk before it eventually fell down. Then it was a mad scramble to grab all the trinkets off the tree that had been placed there during the day. It looked a bit like a Christmas tree but instead of baubles it was buckets and washing up bowls. There was no getting out of the dancing the local nut case was rounding everybody up with a whip, even Nik had to sucumb to two Peruvian princesses and that is without having downed his usual gallon of dancing beer. Escaped in the morning to the next
Peruvian Highlands
Llama river crossing town (Abancay) winding our way down from the plains and through the spectacular gorges. Did our Good Samaritan bit on the way and took a guy to hospital, a lorry had tipped over and we were the next truck along so the police stopped us and bundled him in. Haven´t a clue what happened but he was very grateful to be dropped off. The weather was lovely so we left Tommy in town and hiked up the nearest mountain, steam was eminating from every orrifice as we had not yet aclimatised. We were all decked out in hiking boots, trousers and gallons of water and when we were nearly at the top little old ladies were passing us in their flip flops and sticky out skirts on the way to their mountain homes. Didn´t make us feel too good. We arrived the next day in Cusco, after doing a few laps of the city we pitched up at Hostal Frankenstein, owned by a German guy, Ludwig. The hostal was packed full of character, had an iguana called Martin who had freedom to roam and was usually found basking in warm sunny corners. Cusco was full of tourists but still a
Chalhuanca
Carnival chaos great place to explore, surrounded by Inca ruins which the Spaniards pulled down to build their churches and colonnial houses, it is nice to know we weren´t the bad guys for a change. We found Tommy a nice car park and took him out for the occassional trip into the sacred valley which was the centre of Inca civilisation and pretty awesome with its high mountains terraced up to the tops for the cultivation of crops. After an overload of ruins and culture we thought we´d revert back to our heathan side and spent a good few hours in the highest owned Irish pub in the world (10,700ft) or so they say. First course was Arsenal v Villa followed by a fat boy fry up and at least two pints of beer before our heads started to swim. Our grand finale was in the evening when we dined at a restaurant called Kusikuy (Kuy meaning guinea pig) and yes Nik had to have the Peruvian delicacy. Roast guinea pig with tatties and veg. We thought Lisa (our daughter) might be able to use the picture in one of her fund raising campaigns as she has just landed a job with
Cusco
Spot the pig! WWF (World Wildlife Federation not the wrestling). I asked Nik to describe the taste sensation for all of us who have not had the pleasure. He tells me it was stoatally different, not weasely digested but tasted a little better with some freshly squeezed lemming and a side order of ratatouille with special fried mice.
Matchu Pitcchu is described by many as South America´s jewel in the crown. A settlememt constructed high up in the Andean mountains by the Incas. Following the demise of the Incas in the mid 16C it was left abandoned and undiscovered until 1911 when an American explorer tipped off by locals discovered it. Today it is only accesible by a mountain train or on foot by the original Inca trails. Unsurprisingly it is very popular so to get a chance to visit requires some pre-planning. Five weeks ago we arranged a tour, the classic four day trek along the 48km Inca trail finishing at Machu Picchu.
Day 1 - A four o´clock in the morning pick up from Hostal Frankenstein in Cusco, our tour bus drove us out two hours through the sacred valley to the trail head. Breakfast in a nearby village and then
Inca Trail
First camp our tour party assembled for departure. A group of eleven multi-national excited tourists, our two Peruvian guides Flora and Doris and thirteen porters recruited from local villages. We headed off through the control post and left the porters to organise all the equipment. The first morning a pleasant stroll through the plantations of the sacred valley following the river, making polite conversation and getting to know each other. A stop for lunch set up and prepared by the porters who had pushed on. As pre warned the afternoon was the start of the ascent up to Dead Woman´s Pass, the highest point at 4,215m. Flora our guide casually explained that we could all go at our own speed the fastest would do it in two hours and the slowest around three. Well, she might as well have fired a starting pistol! Team Bristol shot out of the blocks with the rest of us in hot pursuit. We all attacked what could be best described as a beautifully constructed granite boulder staircase. The effects of altitude a significant factor, (you don´t need to work out for exercise, just brush your teeth or do your shoes up). Thirty minutes in and team
Inca Trail
Day 4 - Early start Portsmouth made the front under the pace setting of June ´The Goat´Robinson. At 1hr 20min we had made it to the first camp, sweating buckets and swaying around like a couple of MFI wardrobes while basking in glory. This was short lived when we realised the porters had already set up camp having carried tents, cookers, gas bottles, tables, chairs, food and god knows what else all wearing sandals. After an excellent meal and a quick glance at panoramic views it was an early night.
Day 2 - We woke to be reminded that it was rainy season but never mind into the dining tent for porridge, pancakes, cereals and hot drinks. As holders of the yellow jersey the pressure was on us for the second morning, the final ascent to Dead Woman´s Pass. We set off with sore legs and full stomachs, twenty minutes in the Italian stallion broke away from the pack. Team Portsmouth dug deep and pulled him in making it to the top of the pass with a ten minute lead. The rest of the day a steady descent past numerous Inca ruins and glimpses of spectacular scenery through relentless rain. A little dispirited by the
constant rain we found ourselves at camp 2. Flora had a plan to combat the miserable weather. An Andean ritual that involved sitting around in a circle drinking neat rum, red wine and chewing coca leaves. These ingredients were shared with the mountains and the land . Óh well worth a try´, another great meal and off to bed.
Day 3- Would you believe it, clear skies. A shorter days trek through a jungle section with more frequent stops and the competitiveness of the first two days now apparently not an issue. Flora has a passion for orchids (Flora by name and Flora by nature), so we were frequently introduced to the many different species along the way. It became more evident also by now how impressive these porters were piled up with gear towering over their 5ft frames. One of them was called ´Conception´, he was 52 yrs old and also pretty well turned out , thereafter known as ´The Immaculate Conception´. The meals seemed to get better and better three courses, different choices all cooked on the floor of a kitchen tent the size of a garden shed. Another early night as the plan was to wake at
Cusco
Ferocious tyranical warmonger and geezer in Inca costume. 4am, hike for two hours and arrive at Machu Picchu at first light. Would it match the hype?
Day 4 - I was awake at 3 like a kid at Xmas. Up at 4, breakfast and along with the tourists of several other tour companies ready to roll at 5 o´clock. Starting in the dark a procession of multi-nationals set off along the final section of the trail up to the ancient sun gate overlooking M.P. As the sun rose we could see the skies were clear and the scenery spectacular. The most memorable moment for all was coming over the ridge at sun gate and looking down for the first time on MP. In our case the skies were clear just like the postcards. The rest of the morning spent exploring the site with Flora giving the details. First impressions of the Incas as a civilisation was of how remarkably advanced they were in particular their feats of engineering, knowledge of astronomy, agricultural advances and their understanding of environmental balance. How the Spanish managed to topple them is hard to figure. However, after giving it some thought there are some subtle clues as to why they may not have
Inca Trail
The Immaculate Conception been as sharp as first thought. Firstly, they hadn´t invented the wheel or utilised animals for labour so made things pretty hard for themselves. Secondly, they had no monetary system or any form of writing causing obvious difficulties. The factor that confirmed to me their short comings was when I learned of the Acllahuasi (house of the chosen women). Apparently the Incas had this building constructed in their capital Cusco. Here they rounded up the most beautiful women in the kingdom (good start). There they were requred to spend their entire lives learning how to produce handicrafts and textiles without access to the outside world!!! Having said all that I would have quite liked to have been around in Inca times, no mobiles, no computers, no cars, fresh air, good food and lots of exercise lugging around boulders. As long as I wasn´t in the upper classes as history tells us they usually came to a sticky end and were usually first in line for human sacrifices to appease the Gods when natural disasters occured, such as earthquakes and drought. No, a nice low profile 9-5 job would do me, maybe in the Acllahuasi laundry.
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Lisa
non-member comment
FA Cup fantastic!
Although it doesn't come close top your fantastic time and No doubt you've already heard, but Pompey knocked Man U out of the FA cup this weekend to get into the Semi-finals of the FA cup! First week at WWF went well and they haven't yet discovered that I'm winging it, so that's good! Will submit Nik's photo, but not sure they'll go for it!! Spoke to granny tonight (or rather just listened!) and she said to say they have only just seen the blog, but will aim to reply tomorrow. Granny's writing it out on paper first, so that Grandad can type it out! Off on hols on Sat to Barcelona, Geneva and France.....very excited! Hopefully speak to you soon....love Lisa xxx