The Inca Trial, Machu Picchu, and Aguas Calientes


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South America » Peru » Cusco » Aguas Calientes
April 29th 2006
Published: April 29th 2006
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GETTING THERE:
Got on a bus at 5:30AM, destination, KM. 82, along the way we got breakfast, and my walking stick (looks just like Da Gou Bang, hehehe).

MEMBERS:

Raul Ramirez:
the knowledgeable tour guide who knows way too much about orchids, one day he will write a book about the 200 plus species of orchids that are found on the Inka Trail.

Kim: American from LA
Lorna: American from NYC, with deadpan sense of humor
Serena: The other New Yorker of the group
Kate: Med student from Mass.
Sidsel: college student from Denmark, walks very very fast, this is her second time on the trek
Poul: Sidsel´s dad

DAY 1:
The trip starts with the crossing of the Urubamba river. The first day is fairly pleasant. The trail winds through the mountains surrounded by snowcapped mountain tops. Having just recovered from my diarrhea, I took it easy and just concentrated on walking the trail, didn´t take that many photos. I will come to regret that later.
Raul stops frequently to tell us about the culture and history of the 9th Incan, and his contribution in the expansion and urbanization of the empire. Nothing quite like sitting amidst the incan ruins by a cliff on a sunny day, overlooking a huge valley, and learning about the cultures of the past.
And then it was lunch time, and it was OUT OF THIS WORLD. The chef is absolutely amazing, and I had the best food since coming to South America.
The day was short, we´d arrived at the camp site by 3:30PM, and rest up for the rest of the afternoon. I took the opportunity to take pictures. at 5:30 we had afternoon tea, and Raul taught us a card game called ¨Shit Head.¨ Which is much like asshole. Brian is addicted.
Amazing dinner at 7:30, and everyone retired to their tent by 9PM. The nightsky is amazing, as it´s the beginning of the month and there is no moonlight to outshine the stars.

DAY 2:
We wake up at 5:45, and thus begins out hardest day of the trek. By noon, we arrive at Dead Woman´s Pass, 4150m, and we have gained 1,100m in elevation. The scenery was surreal. Cold wind from the backside of the mountain carries the cloud and fog over to front, and the mist looks like water flowing over the pass, spilling into the valley. From the Dead Woman´s Pass is a 600m continuous descent to the second camp site. The descent is through the thick fog, and there were times I couldn´t see more than 10ft ahead of me.
Our group finished ahead of schedule, and arrived at the campside by 2PM. The rest of the day is unremarkable, we had lunch and dinner at the site, and learned a new card game called Spoons.
Night was chilly, but the starlit sky was worth it. At a distance, we see the ominous fog that will set the tone for our 3rd day.

DAY 3:
Wake up at 5:45. And as we were finishing up our breakfast, a giant front of fog rushed into our campsite and enveloped us. This was supposed to be the most scenic day of the trip, but we will not be seeing anything. We walked through 2 more passes, the hike is not as demanding as the second day, but the hours are longer, and we didn´t arrive at our third camp site until 5PM. (11hour hike)
We stopped by 3 other ruins, and hiked through humid subtropical terrains as well as clear mountainous roads. We stopped very frequently because Raul likes to show us all 200 species of orchids found along the trail. I took some pics to make him happy, but we all just wanna hurry up and get out of the fog. Due to the low light conditions because of the fog, I was unable to take many pictures.
Because of the landslide, we had to modify our trail, and we will not be able to walk through the sungate, which is a bummer because it´s the best part of the trip (according to Sidsel).
Our last campsite is by the Urubamba river, and site is beautiful, though it started raining soon after our arrival, and using the bathroom in the rain with our poncho on is quite tricky.

DAY 4:
The damn rain won´t stop. We woke up by 4:45 and trekked for 2 hours in the pouring rain along the railroad in order to get to Machu Picchu early. All along the way, I cursed the Incan gods for sending us this damn rain. We won´t be able to see anything, and I won´t be able to take my pictures.
Poul´s hiking boots fell apart, the bottom of the boots dragging long. Luckily Kate has duct tape. and yes, we duct taped his boots together. What a way to hike to the Lost City!
We arrived at the town of Agua Calientes, and took a bus up to Machu Picchu. And, miraculously, the moment we walked into the lost city, the clouds began the clear up, the sunlight broke through, and RIGHT INFRONT OF MY EYES, mountains upon mountains materialized through the fog. In a matter of minutes, my view changed from a city surrounded by fog to one filled with mountains in the distance. It was an experience impossible to describe.
From Machu Picchu, we were able to hike in reverse the Inka Trail up to the the site of landslide. Though we missed the sunrise at the sungate, we were rewarded with the view of the receding clouds and materializing mountains.
At noon, Brian and I rushed down the ruin, took a bus back to Aguas Calientes, and jumped into the hot springs. It was far more stressful than relaxing. We stayed in the hotspring for 20 minutes before having to rush back to meet the group for lunch and catch the train back to Cusco. But there, at the hotspring, I had my first shower in 4 days.

We took the train back to Ollantaybamba and then took a connecting bus back to Cusco. By 10PM, we were on the bus back to La Paz.

The Inka Trail was not what I expected it to be, but it was an awesome way to end my south america trip. The people in the group were great, and I will miss them. At least we should be able to meet up with the New Yorkers Lorna and Serena. Weird thing is we all live along 1st Ave.

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